Trip to the Blue Mountains - Day 1

   This blog takes place on Dharug and Gundungurra Country

My 33rd birthday was approaching (November 19th), and I decided to treat myself to a trip away to the Blue Mountains for some hiking. I booked accommodation at the Metropole Guesthouse in Katoomba for two nights the week before my birthday and set off towards the Blue Mountains on the 13th of November, planning absolutely nothing about my trip (except for the fact I would get a stout at the Mountain Culture Brewery nearby, and would visit the Explorers Tree).

I set off in the morning, thinking that this would be my second time ever in Katoomba, my first time back in 2009 when I went on a road-trip for schoolies with my Dad.

After making my way through Penrith, I crossed the Nepean River and continued driving up the Great Western Highway, as dark clouds loomed above and all I could do was hope that my time away wasn't marred with torrential rain. Somewhere along the Highway (maybe around Blaxland?) there was a sign on the side of the road asking people to drive with their car headlights on in the daytime for safety. Though this seemed silly to me, I thought it may be due to the frequency of fog and rain, and seeing that other cars were doing it, I decided to obey as directed, switching my headlights on as it began to sprinkle with rain on my windscreen.
Along the drive from here the rain would sometimes get heavier than that, before stopping, then sprinkling, then stopping again.

As I passed through Wentworth Falls, I saw the turn off to 'Darwins Walk' which I had only recently learned about while watching 'Great Australian Walks' on SBS. I wanted to pull off but at the same time I wanted to work out where I was going to be located, so continued following my Google Map directions until, I passed the Metropole Guest Hotel.
As it was still early in the morning and I couldn't check in until 2, I was hankering for a coffee and so kept driving through the streets following the signs leading towards the Three Sisters hoping to pass a cafe along the way.

Eventually the road led me to the Katoomba Falls Kiosk, which sounded like a good place to grab a coffee, and there was free parking just across from it at the Katoomba Falls Reserve (and a toilet block). I pulled in, stopping for the toilet and to apply some sunscreen, while I headed over thinking I might also take a look at the falls.
However, the kiosk was closed, so I continued past it following the signs to the Katoomba Falls lookout which they said was a 5-minute walk (100m), I followed the path up some stairs, through a shelter, and had my first look over the Blue Mountains, where I could see the Three Sisters in the distance.

I followed the trail around to my right (away from the three sisters), and took in the views of the Katoomba Falls.

I followed the trail along, I was wanting to wait until I had checked in to do any serious walking, so was just planning to have a quick explore before heading off to get coffee and lunch and maybe go for a drive to the Explorer's Tree (I'll get to this later).

The trail split off, down beneath a small overhang, for an alternate view over the valley.

I continued this loop around past a sign with a walk leading down the 'Furber Steps - Self Guided walk', which I thought I might go have a look down, but first I cross to the opposite side, heading down a path in the direction of the Three Sisters, towards the Katoomba Cascades, which the sign at the entry had said was a 20-minute walk, or (250m), I wasn't timing, but it felt like in the blink of an eye I had arrived at the cascades.

There were large groups of people gathered at the Cascades, with some following a trail on up past them, I continued along that way, curious to see what was up ahead. I reached the top with a large number of parked buses that were driving tourists arounds. I looked at the time, but I still had hours until I could check in. I knew I wanted to go for a drive to see the Explorer's Tree, but knew that it wasn't a very long drive away, and wouldn't kill too much time. I was also uncomfortable as a sign I had passed by the closed Kiosk had warned not to leave valuables in cars, and my car was currently filled with all my stuff, as I hadn't been able to check in yet. 
'Surely it's fine'. I thought, with the constant influx of people who would dare break into cars in such a busy area.
To my right was a sign pointing along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, 250m to Skyway East Station and Cliff View Lookout, and 1.2km to Echo Point/Three Sisters.

I continued along until I reached the Cliff View Lookout, looking out into the valley from a different angle as I got closer to the Three Sisters.

There was a little gate here where the walk continued along the cliffs all the way to the Three Sisters. I stood, looking down the trail, deliberating whether or not to continue along. I had been planning to drive to just nearby the Three Sisters (where my accommodation's sister hotel allowed parking as part of their deal). However, I still had ample time until I could even check into my accommodation and the walk was not meant to be that far, so I headed off, now deciding to do the walk to the Three Sisters instead.

I began trudging up the stairs in the heat, excited to be out exploring. The loud vibrating hum if the cicadas was so loud it was almost deafening, as I reached the top, looking out once more over the valley, a sign placed along the walk informed me I was at Kedumba View.

"Looking over the Kedumba River to Mt. Solitary.
Mum-mi-ee is the Gundungarra Aboriginal name for this feature.

The plateau that forms the Blue Mountains has been deeply cut by streams and rivers. The vertical cliffs are made of sand deposited here during the Triassic age (about 250 million years ago). Directly below the cliffs are layers from the Permian age, which include coal deposits formed from about 250 million years ago. Exposed in the depths of the valley are rocks from the Devonian age (about 400 millions years ago). The Blue Mountains is a geologically stable environment, which has allowed the development of unique habitats and micro-climates, home to many plants and animals found nowhere else in the world."

The way along had small moments of quick inclines up stairs as well as small moments of walking down them. Some were enough to get my heart pounding as I hadn't done anything to warm myself up before beginning the walk, as well as a general lack of fitness lately. 

Before I knew it, I had reached the lookout for the Three Sisters.

They were visual stunning and definitely a distinct feature of the landscape. I tried to think back to see if I could remember the area from my last visit (and first visit) back in 2009, though other than the Sister's themselves, I could not remember the area, (though looking back on some footage of that trip I could see I was standing in the same spot I had 15 years prior (god that makes me feel old, as does this video:)

"The Three Sisters Legend

The Aboriginal dream-time legend has it that three sisters, 'Meehni', 'Wimlah' and 'Gunnedoo' lived in the Jamison Valley as members of the Katoomba tribe.

These beautiful young ladies had fallen in love with three brothers from the Nepean tribe, yet tribal law forbade them to marry.

The brothers were not happy to accept this law and so decided to use force to capture the three sisters causing a major tribal battle.

As the lives of the three sisters were seriously in danger, a witchdoctor from the Katoomba tribe took it upon himself to turn the three sisters into stone to protect them from any harm. While he had intended to reverse the spell when the battle was over, the witchdoctor himself was killed. As only he could reverse the spell to return the ladies to their former beauty, the sisters remain in their magnificent rock formation as a reminder of this battle for generations to come."[c]

Although some sources claim that this 'Dreamtime story' (which is the one I was told as a child) "may be traced back to non-indigenous 16-year-old schoolgirl Patricia Stone, who gave the formations their "indigenous" names." 

There is also an alternative version, featuring a Bunyip, if you're interested in reading that story (though again, I can't vouch for it being a genuine dreamtime story either.)

I navigated my way through the crowds until I was standing out the front of Echo Point Visitor Centre, which I thought might be a good place to grab a coffee. But the day had gotten warm, or maybe I was just warm from walking, and just felt like drinking my water, so continued along towards the Three Sisters as I knew from my last visit there was a walk down and around them. 

I rounded the corner to continue along the walking track where I noticed a metal Lyrebird along the wall, and as I progressed along this walk, I continued to notice a few more metal animals scattered along the way.

And this nifty tree growing out of the embankment

Giant Cicada on the side, no wonder they're so loud

As I approached the Three Sisters and the Giant Stairway, I had memories of being a teenager in jeans, unfit and lazy (and in my mind I thought I did not walk the entire stairway, though I can't actually remember).

I started to proceed down the stairway, past a few people huffing and buffing their way back up and I wondered to myself if they had proceeded all the way to the bottom, or had just gone 'far enough' before beginning the gruelling climb back up (none looked like bushwalkers, just more casually dressed tourists).

Enjoying the walk down

As I made it to what is called 'Honeymoon Bridge' the access had been closed due to 'conditions or works' although I personally couldn't see any issues.
'At least I've crossed under and been over before' I thought, even if it was years ago, I could barely remember and I was an ungrateful teen just thinking about getting home from my road-trip in order to people able to try to make a move on some girl who no longer is a part of my life. 
I shook my head. 'What a wasted opportunity.' I thought, lamenting I hadn't made the most of my adventure and road trip all those years ago. The follies of youth I suppose.

I waited to proceed down the stairs as a sudden influx of tourists made their way up, including a family with a young teen dressed in an all-black 'emo' outfit. I thought of my own youth, puffing up in ripped jeans and a black Metallica shirt in Summer. Psychoanalysing changes of people's personalities as they age.

I rounded a few bends, overtaking a family that I thought was American (I had thought I had heard the Mum say something in English that sounded like an American accent). I had a quick break to read a sign about why the Three Sisters was closed to abseiling and climbing (basic gist erosion and damage).

At one point I came along a section or rock being held up in case (I assume) of rockfalls and landslides.

I had passed the 'American' family, a while back but heard walking behind me and saw their daughter (who could have been anywhere from a teenager to her late 20's), had gained on me, so I picked up my pace to not block the way.

As I reached the bottom, my legs were a little shaking from walking down so many stairs. I walked over to a sign informing me I was on the 'Dardanelles Pass', which headed in two directions. On my left, 20-minutes to 'Leura Forest' heading right it told me was the way to Scenic World valley stations, with a QR code to scan for more information, though I had no mobile reception after descending the stairway.

I saw another information sign over by a seat which I went to read before sitting down to rest my legs.

"The Giant Stairway
The Giant Stairway ascends about 900 steps cut into the side of the cliff and finishes at Lady Game Lookout, about 400 metres from Echo Point.
The climb up can be exhausting, so take your time and rest regularly."

As I sat drinking my water, the daughter skipped down the remaining stairs, followed shortly after by her father. I gave them both an awkward smile, like you do as an awkward acknowledgement sometimes. Soon the mother herself reached the bottom, and the group soon started talking in a language I now assumed was German. I finished resting my legs, putting my water bottle back in my backpack, I stood up to reassess the sign, trying to decide whether or not to walk to Leura forest or to just head back up the stairway. Soon the family headed left towards scenic world (no distance or time mentioned). 

As I continued thinking about what action I should take I checked the information sign back near the seat which had a map showing that the 'Furber Steps' where before the bottom platform of the scenic railway (as I didn't want to get stuck having to pay to get back up the top). I checked some of the previous photo's I had taken, remembering that I has contemplated heading down the Furber Steps right at the start near the Katoomba Falls lookout, so quickly decided to head that way, and make it one big loop.

Watching my footing to avoid stepping in the wet mud along the beginning of this track (the rest had been completely dry), I quickly caught up to the family, as they politely stood to the side allowing me to pass, and I rounded a bend out of sight and soon stopped hearing them.

I wondered to myself if they had instead decided to turn back and return up the stairway as black storm clouds blew in from the East along with the distant rumble of thunder. 

'Maybe they turned back after I followed, because they were worried about a Wolf Creek scenario.' I also thought to myself.

I headed down some steps, continuing around the base of the Three Sisters where I passed a lone man, who was sitting, starring at his phone while eating a sandwich. He never looked up and I wondered if he had come from the other direction or if was heading the same way as me.

Progressing along the trail I could hear from high above me the echoing bellows of a 'Cooee'. I waited and it happened again, as I video recorded to see if I could capture the sound from down below.

Instead, the only thing the video caught was the loud ambience of the cicada's and a random guy talking to himself on camera.

Appearing before me, carved in stone was a marker stating I was halfway. I wondered where it was measuring the halfway from, if it was beginning at the base of the Giant Stairway or further back, such a Leura Forest.

I could feel a change in the air as the dark clouds to the East continued to ominously approach, as the low rumble of thunder continued to grow louder as it edged closer.

I decided to try more 'vlog-like' narration videos, one for ease of remembering exactly what was occurring at the time, and two for an attempt to be more engaging as a blog (you can let me know if that works or not). 

Continuing along I was yet to encounter any more people, my favourite sort of walk, as it helped make me feel like I was truly in the wilderness. I admired the lush green ferns and every little gorgeous wildflower.

I came across a sign informing me I was no longer on the Dardenelles Pass, but was now on Federal Pass at Cooks crossing as rain began to fall.

"Cooks Crossing is named for Joseph Cook (1860-1947) who had a long association with the Blue Mountains. He worked as a miner in Lithgow from 1885, and represented the State seat of Hartley from 1891 to 1901. He represented the Federal seat of Parramatta and served as Prime Minister 1913-1914.

Federal Pass was constructed in 1900 and paid for by public subscription. It was opened on the 3rd November 1900, by NSW Premier Lyne, and there were 17 Members of Parliament present. The following year Federation of the Sates of Australia occurred. Federal Pass connects Leura Forest with the bottom of the Giant Stairway, Katoomba Falls, Scenic Railay and the bottom of The Landslide. In 1936 Federal Pass was extended to include the old horse tramway that once operated to the oil shale mines at Ruined Castle."

I began to finally pass other people on the track who has stopped as the rain started to put on rain jackets on either themselves or their backpacks. Though I found the canopy enough to stop the majority of the rain, for now at least.

I reached a sign informing me that Scenic World valley stations were '15-minutes' away.
'Smashed it.' I thought to myself, crossing a bridge over a little creek before the walk began to start twisting and weaving up hill.

A short way up the stairs there was another little walk off to my left leading down towards a tree cordoned off and labeled with a sign giving its common name and scientific name.

I wondered what the significance of this Turpentine Tree was, as there was no information anywhere in sight. Looking it up later, the best thing I could find to explain was 'The turpentine is one of the dominant species of the critically endangered Sydney Turpentine-Ironbark Forest ecological community'.
I wandered right up to the tree, sticking my head up and looking high into the sky to see the top of the tree, but it was out of sight, hidden behind the canopy of smaller trees.

The rain had turned into nothing more than a light drizzle, and the ominous and foreboding thunder had begun to dwindle and I wondered if the worst was over as I reached the base of the Furber Steps, with a sign pointing along the continuing trail, 100m to scenic world and 6.6km to Ruined Castle (one way).
I took note of Ruined Castle, something about it sounded epic, mysterious and intriguing. I had also seen the name written in various groups about hiking (but I rarely often pay attention to those, thus know nothing about the walk).

There were no distances on the sign pointing up the Furber stairs, just '45-minutes'. I began the climb up, however after about six stairs there was another sign on my left welcoming me to the Furber Steps self-guided walk.

"The Federal Pass is built on the talus slope at the bottom of the cliffs. Here, this corresponds with the Katoomba Coal Seam. Part of the Federal Pass, from here to Leura Forest, was built in the 1900s with money raised by public donation. The track continues in the other direction, past the Scenic Railway, to the abandoned coal and oil shale mines at Ruined Castle across the valley. The Federal Pass there follows the route of a horse drawn tramway which transported the coal to the inclined railway. The mines closed down in 1932."

The trail followed closely along the large overhanging cliff walls, some hanging over to completely shelter from the rain, as I noticed someone had written on the side 'Good Waters."

The water from the rain was dripping in a pretty consistent flow here, and if I wanted to, I could have placed my water bottle underneath to fill it up (though you should never drink untreated water) and I wondered if that was why it was written there.
'Though' I thought, 'This isn't that far from the top, surely you wouldn't be that desperate for water at this point.'

Passing underneath, the overhang I once more headed over to a signpost to educate myself.

"The Caley Formation
The layers of shales and sandstones here are named after explorer George Caley. Caley was one of the first Europeans to attempt to cross the Blue Mountains in 1802. The Caley Formation is still part of the Triassic system of rocks that was laid down between 250 and 220 million years ago.
Clay is a nutrient rich rock, which when weathered contributes to the fertility of the soils here and in the valleys. Water seeping through the sandstone from above filters out along this layer."

"and Hanging Swamps
Many "hanging swamps" are formed above clay layers or sills, which slow the movement of water. Sometimes the swamps become so heavy they just slide off the mountain. The slow process of re-building begins. As clay and debris are caught on the damp rocks, seeds germinate and the mat of vegetation forms again."

Every time I took a photo I noticed how washed out and lacking colour everything was looking (I don't edit or adjust my images). I thought this was due to not only being underneath the dark cover of the cliff face but also the dark clouds still hanging over above.
I continued the walk up, soon reaching a turn with an extra walk off to my right to 'Veras Grotto'.
It was only 50m, so detoured towards the grotto.

"Vera's Grotto
The creek you crossed at Witches Leap falls about 20 metres here to continue its journey to join Katoomba Falls Creek which becomes the Kedumba River.
In the secluded glen you may hear the call of the Golden Whistler and Yellow Robins. Lyre Birds also frequent Veras Grotto; their call is often a complex mimicry of other bird calls and bush noises. The Whip Bird call is a combination of male and female birds.
The male call first and the female with amazing timing answers the male. This is called an 'antiphonal response'."

I stood watching the water drip down the rock wall forming its little pools as I had a rest and took the time to drink some water.

I walked back to the main track and continued back up the Furber Steps as the pause in the rain ended and the drizzle began once more, with the sound of Thunder booming,

After rounding a bend, I came to a metal ladder to climb, and as I started on my way up, I could see the Three Sisters across the valley behind me.

Reaching the top of the stairs you could now see both the Katoomba Falls and the Three Sisters, and I knew I had to push through and make it up the stairs, and I could go check in at my accommodation and go and get myself something to eat as it was now 1.44pm and all I'd had to eat was a piece of toast for breakfast and some mint slice on the drive up.

Next, I arrived at the Queen Victoria Lookout, offering a view over the valley and the three sisters.

"Queen Victoria Lookout!
The fabulous vertical cliffs of the valley are formed by block falls and landslides. These occur because of the many horizontal and vertical fault lines in the sandstones. As the claystone bands are sapped away, undercutting the sandstone, the fault lines weaken and drop their enormous weight into the valley. This is clearly visible at the Landslide Lookout on Cliff Drive.
The Three Sisters are remnants of this activity. The wind and water continue to erode the Sisters individually. As time goes on the remaining Sisters will crumble and fall into the Valley. This process will take thousands of years."

I continued up from here, passing once more under a magnificent overhang, providing some more education.

 "Caves and Overhangs
The Blue Mountains are part of a dissected sandstone plateau that extends from the Hunter Valley to Mittagong, a distance of about 150 kilometres. In many layers that were deposited by rivers, tidal lakes and lagoons are unusual clay lenses. The most clearly defined layer is the Mount York Claystone. This layer separates two massive layers of sandstone, and is clearly visible as a vegetated band about halfway down the cliffs. It represents a marine environment, where fine silts were deposited in a tidal lagoon. As the clays are more readily eroded, they often form caves and overhangs, providing hiding places for animals and shelter for humans."

"and Carnivores
The tiger quoll (Dasyurus maculatus) is a native marsupial (now considered rare) that roams the damp glens at night.
It is an agile hunter. Part of its prey would be the brown antechinus (Antechinus stuartii), a small mouse-like creature, which eats insects and lizards.
Although these animals are nocturnal they may sometimes be seen during the day."

I stood looking around for any sign or trace of any animals, but as the rain slowly stopping dripping around me, and the thunder quietened, other then a gentle breeze rustling the trees all I could hear was the loud buzzing hum of cicada and the mixed sounds of bird calls, as I continued on, once more coming to a fork in my trail, with another bonus walk off to my right towards the 'Underfalls', and apparent 10-minute walk. I thought for a minute about that extra 20-minutes, as I was wet, stinky, tired and hungry. But that weaker side of me was pushed aside, as I wasn't going to miss the opportunity to see them, after all, that was my reason for being here.

When I reached the Underfalls I actually found them quiet impressive. Two ladies were already standing up close to a guard rail (that was there to stop people getting to close to them). I walked around trying to work a way to get a good photo, avoiding the rail and the ladies, and thought I did a good job.

I stood watching the waterfall, with the wind hitting me with an occasional gentle spray from it. As I turned to continue on my walk I noticed one of the ladies, jump into the location I had had my photo from and snap one from the exact same spot, which gave me some confidence in my choice of location and angle for the photo.

Next I reached the 'Rainforest Lookout' which really only offered a view on top of the canopy of some trees. I stopped to once more read the information sign placed here.

"Rainforest Lookout
This spot was popular with visitors during the turn of the century. When wood was plentiful the barbecue was often used. Today it is inappropriate to use this facility as we have learnt of the critical importance of the dead wood to the environment.
The nutrients locked in fallen wood will eventually support new growth in the forest so it is important not to burn it.
From here you can hear the waters of Witches Leap Creek as it burbles and mutters its way to Veras Grotto. You can take a short detour to the Katoomba Falls, along the Underfall Track."

Once more I continued up some stairs, eventually reaching a fork on the 'Katoomba Falls Round Walk'.
From here I could head left for a 15 minute walk to 'Scenic World car park' or right, also 15 minuters, to Katoomba Falls Kiosk and Echo Point, which was the way that I headed.

After reaching the top of another set of stairs, the track was on and edge with trees growing on either side, but to the right a sloping drop down into the valley. I was looking over the edge was I continued walking and almost tripped on something protruding from the ground. I now focused on where I was walking.
'That tree branch sort of looked like metal.' I thought to myself, after taking a second to process.
As I continued along, I realised there was now a large pipe continuing along the track on my right, sticking out from the ground, and that tree branch I had thought looked like a piece of pipe was indeed a piece of this pipe.

Following this pipe until I was once more below a cliff edge with a series of stairs heading up again, I stopped to read a sign about the rainforest.

"Cool Temperate Rainforest
You are now below the cliff edge and protected from the extremes of the weather.
The soils here are quite thin and highly erodible. Nutrients from the leaf litter and fallen branches are constantly recycled by fungi, worms, beetles and soil bacteria.
Combined with a reliable water supply and protection from the drying winds the fragile system supports a rich rainforest. The mulch of leaves and sticks prevents the soil being washed away on the steep slopes."

Whilst slowly trudging up these stairs, I could see a young man jogging up from behind me. I wondered if he was a local doing this as a fitness regime or if he was just someone in a hurry. As he reached me he stopped to inform me that my backpack was unzipped, (as I had forgotten to zip it closed last time I had a drink), I thanked him for letting me know and we both bid each other a good day, as he continued jogging up the stairs, and I gave myself another drink before zipping my bag up (and inspecting that it hadn't gotten too wet inside.)

I thought about the mans accent as I continued uphill. In my mind it had sounded British, but I couldn't be too sure, and I started wondering about his story. 
It a fascinating world full of people, interweaving through life and occasionally bumping into each other, only to never be seen again.

As I rounded a bend I could see a big tourist group, all wearing white see-through raincoats with 'scenic world' written on the side. I could hear their tour guide talking to them about the forest (and he was most definitely British). 
As I approached them he turned to me, and told me he was explaining to them that they were cousins, because they were Danish, which I thought was a weird thing to say. 
I nodded awkwardly, excusing myself as I tried to squeeze through a large group of young Danish girls who also apologised. Just as I made it through they continued down the stairs, as I continued up.
I thought about the tour guides comment about being cousins and wondered if it was in reference to the historical Danish invasion of England and the Danelaw.

Then I began wondering about the family group I had passed on the Giant Stairway, 'Maybe they were Danish and not German?' I thought, popping out at the top where I had started the walk. I made my way back towards the Kiosk, which I soon reached before stopping to inspect an old well that was next to it.

Hot and exhausted, I made my way to my car, ready to go check in then grab myself some lunch. As I pulled out my car keys, pressing the button to unlock my car, nothing happened. I pressed again.
I made the assumption that my key battery had gone flat, and started wondering where you get them replaced, as I stuck the key in the lock of my car boot, opening it up and eating a few mint slices from a packet I had opened for the drive up. I closed the boot and walked around to the driver's side door. Unlocking the car, I got in setting my phone up in my bracket ready to lead me to my hotel.
I put my key in and turned it.
Nothing. Weird.
I tried again and again. "What the hell?"
Then I saw it, and I reached up, and turned my car lights back to the off position.
"Fuck."
I had forgotten to switch them off after making my way up the Great Western Highway because I never drive with them on during the day.
'Punished for doing the right thing.' I thought. What the hell was I going to do. I don't pay for roadside assist because I don't have the money to waste on shit like that (if I did this blog would have a few fewer posts). 
I made the decision to head over to the nearby Katoomba Falls Tourist Park, as the light rain continued to fall around me. 

I entered the reception area where a man and a woman were sitting.
"You wouldn't be able to jump start me, would you?" I asked, explaining about my dead car parked over in the reserve.
The man asked me to give him a second, as he went away out the back looking for something.

I stood waiting, hoping that he would have something so I wouldn't have to fork out all the money for some company to come out and jump start me (if it had been a manual car I could have done a push start).
Soon the man returned from out the back, holding what looked like a portable battery jump start kit.
He unfolded and umbrella, and followed me over, to my car.
"Leave the lights on, did you?" He asked. 
I explained about the sign on the highway, as he connected the cables to my car battery. I got in the car and turned my key. Nothing.

He re-adjusted them and asked me to crank it again. This time the rumbling of my car engine started, and I was beyond ecstatic.
"Thank you do much." I told him. "I really appreciate it man."
He mentioned he'd had a car be flat the other day he had used his kit on, but he wasn't sure if he had charged it.
"Does it happen a lot?" I asked, thinking other people had been as foolish as me. But he clarified it had been someone within the tourist park. 
I profusely thanked him again, as he set back for the park, and I set off for my own accommodation.
Katoomba Falls Tourist Park? 5 stars!

I made my way along the road once more back to the Metropole, turning left up a very steep driveway and reverse parking also on a steep angle. 
As I turned off my car, I hoped that when I went to start it up again it had generated enough power that it would start for me.
As I entered the door to the Metropole a group of people were huddled around some electrical box talking. I walked to the reception desk, to find it empty.
"Just checking in?" A lady around the box with the group of men asked.
"Yeah." I said, as she called for another young lady to come and check me in.
I was given my key, and code to enter the doors outside of reception hours, as I wandered up the staircase trying to remember the directions she had given to my room.
I found myself a little lost as I explored the guest rooms with really beautiful décor. 

"History of the Metropole Guesthouse
The site of the Metropole Guesthouse was one of the first to be built on in Katoomba. In 1800 the Mountain home was occupied by Reverend Barber.
Mrs. Godsell then purchased the site and the residences were then demolished to make way for the new un-licensed hotel, which opened in 1933.
The Metropole was advertised at the time as a guesthouse and a Temperance Hotel offering "the last word in modern improvements and service."
In 1937, for additional accommodation purposes, Mrs. Godsell purchased the building next door to the guesthouse. The newly purchased building was originally an ambulance station and plumber's premises.
Several proprietors ran the guest house after Mrs. Godsell.
In the early 1980s the Metropole was then changed into premises providing no accommodation but instead providing liquor through one larger and several smaller bars. This transformation was achieved by removing many of the rooms on the first floor for these new bars.
This area is now used as our games and lounge areas.
The bars did no prove viable and in 1988 the Metropole was purchased by the Assanti Family and was re-opened as a guesthouse.
The original building was refurbished while still retaining much of the fine wood panelling and leadlight windows that were crafted in the 1930s for Mrs. Godsell."

I eventually found the way to my room on the third and top floor and could feel my legs cramping from exhaustion. I opened the door to my room, throwing down my backpack, as I headed down to my car to bring up the rest of my things. I placed them down on the floor of my room, having a quick Google Map search to find food somewhere nearby.

I decided to head around the corner to the 'Tibet Kitchen' for some Momo's and a 'Butter Tea' as I had never had one before.

I was the only one in the restaurant and I made my order, with the lady serving me warning me that the chilli sauce that came with my beef Momo's was 'extremely spicy'. Anyone who knows me, or has read previously blog posts knows (and if you don't know I am about to inform you), that I am a chilli addict who eats very spicy foods and often partakes in spicy food eating challenges, so when she warned me I was of course very dubious of her claim.

Soon my Momo's and Butter tea arrived, both looking like a thing of beauty to my very empty and rumbling stomach.

I started with a sip of my 'butter tea', that was just like a milky latte without the coffee but still nice and warming. I then started on the Momo's which were delicious, but I dipped into the chilli sauce, which although absolutely delicious, had virtually no heat for me at all, and I wondered if it had been made so on purpose (as often happens for white people when they order anything spicy). 

I finished up and thanked the lady for the delicious food. It was now 3.30pm in the afternoon, and I didn't think I had any more time for any walks, but I had originally planned to visit 'The Explorer's Tree' before checking in to my accommodation, but I had instead done that large Three Sisters walk.

I decided to head to the Explorer's Tree now. 
My enthusiasm for wanting to visit stemmed from two things.
One, I remembered driving past it and having the origins of it explained to me by my Father back in 2009 on our road trip.
Two, I had just read the first two books in the Australian History series 'Girt' by David Hunt, with which the second book 'True Girt' had in some part chronicled the 1813 Blue Mountains Crossing by Gregory Blaxland, William Lawson and William Charles Wentworth.

I returned to my car on the step slope, setting up my GPS which led me back to the Great Western Highway and in no time at all I had pulled of the side of the road, which Google telling me I was at my destination.

I stopped my car, (double and triple checking my headlights weren't left on) as I tried to find this so called 'Explorer's Tree' which I had read on Wikipedia before setting off had 'dubious historicity' to it.

Soon I found the location where the tree was 'supposed' to be, with a sign left to explain, that the tree was no longer there.

"Explorers Tree
What Happened to the Tree?
In early 2012 the sandstone podium beneath Explorers Tree was severely damaged after being struck by a vehicle travelling along the Great Western Highway. The shelter was also damaged by the impact and was subsequently dismantled and stored. In response, Blue Mountain City Council took action to make the site safe, stabilise the podium and temporarily weather-proof the Tree.

Given the historical significance of the Tree and its context, Council engaged heritage consultants to prepare a Conservation Management Strategy  for the Pulpit Hill Precinct which includes land to the west of the Tree. The strategy will record and describe the significance of the Pulpit Hill and its historical elements, including Explorers Tree, and will propose a series of appropriate strategies to conserve the values of the Precinct."

It waffled on with more babble about about costs and feasibility of implementing draft recommendations, but I had already lost interest as I noticed another area nearby, forming a semi-circle of sign posted information. I walked across towards this as I could feel my disappointment. 
'Lucky I didn't end up coming here first.' I thought, happy that I had ended up doing my exciting walk down into the valley instead.

For those not sure what I mean when I mention the 'dubious historicity' of the tree, or even what the explorers tree is. Let our good friend Wikipedia provide some insights:

"The Explorers Tree was a Blue Mountains ash (Eucalyptus oreades).
The tree is regarded as the one on which Gregory Blaxland, William Lawson and William Charles Wentworth, the explorers who achieved the first known successful crossing of the Blue Mountains of New South Wales by European settlers, carved their initials in 1813. The claim is not universally supported however. Further, the tree was not actually mentioned in the explorer's journals and the first recorded mention of it was not until 1867."

For more information on that history, visit this link to the 'Explorer's Stump' by the 'Dictionary of Sydney': https://dictionaryofsydney.org/blog/the_explorers_stump

I reached the semicircle of signs and began to read:

"Nguna Gundungurra-ngu Ngurragung
This is Gundungurra Country
For the Gundungurra people, Ngurra (Country) is a complex, interconnected web of the land, all of the living things in it and on it (seen of unseen), water, sky, stars and planets, the air, spiritua; beings, stories, songs and dance.
Since time immemorial, the Gundungurra people have lived in and cared for Ngurra, and have in turn, been cared for and nourished by it.
Countless generations of Gundungurra people have lived and thrived in the timeless generosity and care of their Ngurra.

Today, the Gundungurra people retain this deep cultural and spiritual connection with Ngurra and Ngurra continues to care for and nourish them, but the world has changed.
The world of the Gundungurra, inhabited since the creation time, was dramatically and irrevocably changed in 1913, with the arrival of European explorers.
At that time, a party led by now famous early colonists Gregory Blaxland, William Wentworth and William Lawson, travelled into Gundungurra Ngurra, in their quest for news lands for the colony.
The Gundungurra, wary of strangers, were cautious, keeping a safe distance, as two very different worlds slowly began to come together for the first time..."

"Ngurra Maru-yarr
Pathways in Country
By the early 1800s the small British colony at Sydney, in the rich Ngurra of the Dharug people, was rapidly expanding and more land was needed.
The colonisers were tantalised by stories of the rich lands west of what came to be known as the Great Divide and the rumoured existence of ancient pathways through the mountains. The search was on for places with deep, rich soil, good timber, reliable rainfall and standing water, and abundance of game and a temperate climate.
These physical qualities of Ngurra were those also valued by the Dharug, Gundungurra and Wiradjuri.

Competition for good land between the original owners and the colonists was inevitable.
Gundungurra and Dharug peoples had forever easily traversed what the colnists thought of as 'the Divide', using their ancient pathways, seasonally and ceremonially connecting them to important parts of Ngurra, to each other and their neighbours the Waradjuri.
It was through these pathways that the party of colonists fatefully found their way in 1813, heralding the European occupation of Central West NSW. It also marked the beginning of violent dispossession  of the original owners of the land, an impact still felt by Aboriginal people to this day.
The party of explorers are said to have carved a tree to mark their crossing and you have probably stopped here today to see that tree. Remember this part of the story when you ponder the tree.
It does mark the beginning of colonists' expansion beyond the range, assuring survival and success of the British colony, but it also marks a starkly different beginning for the Dharug, the Gundungurra and the Wiradjuri.
By the way, the tree is not quite what it seems, but that's a different story..."

I stopped to reflect on this before continuing read the two remaining signs. As a lover of history and adventure I had always been fascinated by explorers from a young age. I remember in year 4 of Primary School learning about these explorers and wishing I could be one, seeking out to new lands for adventure and discovery. It was the one part of more modern history I had any interest in (I always preferred ancient history to modern), as I grew up and got older, and started playing a game called 'Assassin's Creed' I had wondered about my own family history and as I begun researching that and learning about the past I had become more interested in modern (and all) history, and the difference of how we even view that history today, in 2024 (as I write this and did this trip), compared to how we were taught of Australian History and colonisation, their is a radical difference.
For me in particular, I think history is about truth. It can be fascinating, exciting, thrilling. But it can also be dark, with a lot or sordid and unpleasant details that may go against an agenda or belief that some people may hold. But truth, and facts and the real details are things that should be taught and learnt and the horrible truths of the past aren't something that should ever be shied away from.
As the famous quote from George Santayana says "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."
But I digress, and I will write out the two remaining signs before continuing on my day one exploits.

"The Tree, a powerful symbol
Following what is commonly believed to be the first successful European crossing of the Blue Mountains in 1813, a story emerged of a previously unnoticed tree, near the summit of Pulpit Hill, which adjoined the (by then) heavily used western road.
Over the next few decades, the tale of the tree grew, was told and retold, and the tree assumed monumental status for non-Aboriginal Australians as a symbol of crossing the Divide and opening up the west.
The period after the crossing was characterised by the almost complete dispossession of the Dharug, Gundungurra and Wiradjuri from their Ngurra, despite a fierce and heroic war of resistance."

Unfortunately there is a middle section of that sign that is blocked by reflecting light of the sun when I photographed it to recite here, but I will continue on from the next legible section.

"It is very likely that there was such a tree, marked in some way by the first colonial explorers.
The process of marking, or blazing trees, is mentioned in several historical accounts, believed to be a way to mark a path for others to follow or to retrace steps in the dense bushland.
It is likely that there were many marked trees in the area for this purpose.
However over the years, a story developed around this tree, to memorialise the expansion of the British colony into western NSW, with a physical landmark."

"A confronting and enduring legacy
In the 1970s and 1980s, debate over the future of the remnant of the tree came into focus, particularly due to the upgrade of the increasingly busy Great Western Highway.
There was also increasing scrutiny about the authenticity of the tree. In turn, this raised questions about the need to protect and conserve the tree, which by then had largely rotted.
However, regardless of the condition and authenticity of the tree, it is a highly significant artefact and cultural symbol, which tells a powerful story.
It is a story of how the British colony at Sydney survived and thrived, and of the need for a fledging colonial nation to celebrate the beginning of its story.
For the original owners of the land, the Dharug, the Gundungurra and the Wiradjuri and the innumerable other Aboriginal peoples whose Ngurra was taken after the crossing, this tree symbolises something very different.

Though painful for the Gundungurra people, the myth of this tree is now part of their story, bonding them to the stories of the Dharug and Wiradjuri neighbours and other beyond them.
It is a story of heroic resistance and timeless connection to Ngurra, which has never been ceded nor surrendered.
Today, Australia has grown into a strong, prosperous and mature nation with a growing appetite to embrace its past and to move into the future with honesty and respect.
The story and symbolism of the tree can help us do that, to understand the price paid for the prosperity enjoyed today and the real and lasting impacts experienced by Aboriginal peoples, as a result of colonisation.
In recognition of this, in 2014 Blue Mountains City Council entered into an agreement with the Gundungurra people, the Gundungurra Indigenous Land Use Agreement. This recognises the Gundungurra's deep, abiding and unbroke connection to Ngurra and establishes an consultative partnership approach with the Gungungurra to the management of land in the Blue Mountains."

With those sobering thoughts in mind, I returned to my car and continued driving down this road off the highway, for a random explore, with no plan in mind I decided I would just go for a random explore.

As I followed it down to it's end I ended up coming to section of a famous multiday bushwalk/hike, and one that has been on my hiking bucket list for a while, the 'Six Foot Track'.

As I pulled up, and got out of my car to read a little sign on it I read that the walked was currently closed due to aerial vertebrate pest control.

I made a note, to myself that I do have to one day do the Six Foot Track (along with the Ruined Castle walk).

As I hopped back into my car a friend from work saw a picture I had posted on my Instagram story asking if I was out walking. As I was about to drive away, I replied to them with this video instead:

I headed back to the Great Western Highway, continuing along with no plans in mind, as I passed Medlow Bath (which was having heaps of roadworks and construction works being done all around the famous 'Hydro Majestic')

Eventually along the road I saw a sign headed to the right towards 'Evans Lookout' so I quickly pulled into the right turning lane, turning onto Evan's Lookout Road. Driving along the road I saw a turn off on my right to walk called the 'Walls Cave walk' which was now on my radar, as I continued the drive to Evan's Lookout. 

Whilst driving down this road, I saw a little loop carpark that had a toilet block and so I pulled up to use the toilet. As I approached there was a young man waiting out the front of the two toilets, half wearing a wetsuit and I wondered if he had been canyoning. The two toilets were occupied and I could hear two young girls in each talking to each other and calling out to the young man, who turned around to me to let me know they wouldn't be too long, and called to the girls to hurry up.
I let him know it was fine and not urgent as I noticed a track continuing down past the toilets with a sign nearby saying it was 150metres to the lookout so I decided to head down the trail, past all the beautiful plants with numerous brilliant red Rosella occasionally flying over my head from one side to the other.
I stopped to look around, as my bladder was now beginning to hurt with the need to pee (it had never been the same after it peeled and I had to urinate pieces of my bladder our during my chemotherapy and stem cell treatment) so I quickly ducked into the bush for a whizz that was taking longer than I was comfortable with, worried someone would walk by.
Luckily for me, now one did and I continued down the track until I popped out at the Evan's Lookout carpark, which also had a toilet block, right next to the start of the 'Cliff Top Track'.

Nearby there was a sign with information, detailing all the walks around and information on Evan's Lookout.

"Evans Lookout
It's taken 15 million years of geological uplift and erosion to carve out the valley you can see below you. The Grose Valley is known as the 'cradle of conservation' in NSW and became a declared wilderness area in 2001, helping to protect its values.
The magnificent Blue Gum Forest is at the heart of the Grose Wilderness area. This dense forest of tall blue gum trees is one of the most secluded areas in the Blue Mountains. It played an important role in the beginnings of the park and the conservation movement in NSW. In 1932, the forest was saved from axe when a group of bushwalkers pooled their money to buy out the lease. Decades later, intrepid hikers can still walk into this natural wonder.
In this area you will find some of the most photographed landscapes in the Blue Mountains. The cluster of view points around the rim of the Grose Valley provide everchanging views of sweeping sandstone escarpments, sheer cliff walls, deep canyons, tall waterfalls and hazy blue forests."

'Good ol' conservations.' I thought, thinking that all this pristine wilderness could have been carved down. This was absolute validation, I thought, that Australia should end Native Forest Logging. As I had attended the 'March for Forest' protest by the Bob Brown Foundation back in March, and again attended a Rally for Forests earlier this month on the 3rd of November.

I headed down a short 50m trail towards Valley View Lookout, for absolutely stunning views.

I headed back up to the carpark, towards the actual Evan's Lookout.

When I reached the lookout, I was in awe, and all I wanted was to journey down into the valley, which fortunately for me was possible, as right nearby was the beginning of the 'Grand Canyon walk', down into the valley.

It was now 5.09pm so I wasn't about to set off on that walk now. But I had decided the Grand Canyon walk would be my first walk tomorrow. I made my way back up the track to my car, feeling the strain in my legs and headed back to my accommodation, but not before stopping in a a service station and picking up 2 of the 1-litre isotonic drinks 'Maximus' to try and help my already beginning leg cramps (as this drink had helped in similar situations), returning back to my accommodation, I had a shower before I headed out for dinner.

I knew already what I wanted, as their was a brewery nearby my accommodation called Mountain Culture Brewery. I love a good brewery stout. I headed off to the brewery once I had showered and changed, walking into to a bustling and incredibly busy brewery, I looked at the menu as it only had one stout available at that time. I ordered a schooner of 'Moon Dust' stout, before realising it was so busy their was no seating available.
I awkwardly walked into a corner to drink it, while now having to google other places to eat as it was going to be far too busy here.

I finished my beer, awkwardly looking around for a spot to even place my glass down and ended up having to walk up to the service counter for a spot to place it down.
"Thanks mate!" The guy said to me as I wandered to my new decided location 'Cattlefish', as the prices were reasonable and I didn't want a massive meal after my late lunch, so I headed there for a 'Chilli Beef Burger' while also taking in the sights of the town of Katoomba including the Anglican Church across from it that was covered in Sulfur-Crested Cockatoos.

As I waited for my order a cute young girl in a crop top came in and ordered standing in front of me.
Behind us, and outside the restaurant some sort of argument was occurring between a young man sitting at a table, and what seemed like a junkie (whether the two knew each other, I'm not privy to).
This continued for a while as everyone inside turned their heads to look at this loud junkie going a bit ballistic, until he stormed off flinging his arms into the air.
The young girl turned to look a me.
"Only it Katoomba." She said to me, while I nodded awkwardly, taken aback a little at being spoken to.

I soon received my burger, and went to sit down in the seated area to eat it (it was quite tasty). I quickly ducked to a nearby Coles, planning to pick up lunch for my walk the next day.
I headed to the sandwich section, but a small pissy little sandwich was like $7 so I ended up buying to packets of crackers (one seaweed and one 'buttered popcorn' flavoured) for about $1.60 each, as well as some limited edition sweet and sour Twisties for me to snack on later that night.
I then headed back to my hotel room to wind down for the day. 
I sat down to read more of the new book I was reading 'Odyssey' by Stephen Fry (a retelling of the Greek myth of Odysseus and the aftermath of the Trojan War).

Midway through a chapter my legs began to severely cramp (I had already completely drank one of the bottle of isotonic drink), the pain was absolutely excruciating and I could see the muscle in my front thigh on my right leg literally bulging out as I roughly massaged, punched, stretched and tried to walk them out.

Eventually they seemed to stop and I read some more of my book, before turning the light out to get some rest for another day of walks, unfortunately the cramps continued into the night waking me up at various points (I had even packet magnesium supplements and taken one of those and drank adequate water and snacked on the Twisties hoping the salt might help).
I wondered how I would cope the next two days of planned walks after the devastating pain I was enduring, as I finally got to sleep and the cramps subsided.

To be continued on Day 2...

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Thanks for reading! - Steven