This blog takes place on Dharug and Gundungurra Country
To read day one, click here.
I awoke after my morning of severe leg cramps, tired and exhausted. The sun was beaming through the window into my room, as I slowly shuffled up into a sitting position.
I was hesitant to move as the previous night any movement in bed would cause more cramps.
After hoping out of bed and drinking water to immediately hydrate, I could still feel the tightness in my legs, so I did something I never do.
I stretched. I stood in my room, for about 10 to 15 minutes doing various stretches for both my thighs and my calves.
This seemed to actually help, as I sat down on the end of my bed google searching nearby cafes to grab a coffee and some breakfast.
There were many options in Katoomba, but I ended up deciding to head out to the Little Paris Café, as the Toulouse sausage omelette piqued my interest.
I was hesitant to move as the previous night any movement in bed would cause more cramps.
After hoping out of bed and drinking water to immediately hydrate, I could still feel the tightness in my legs, so I did something I never do.
I stretched. I stood in my room, for about 10 to 15 minutes doing various stretches for both my thighs and my calves.
This seemed to actually help, as I sat down on the end of my bed google searching nearby cafes to grab a coffee and some breakfast.
There were many options in Katoomba, but I ended up deciding to head out to the Little Paris Café, as the Toulouse sausage omelette piqued my interest.
I made my way down Katoomba street, past the church and Cattlefish. The weather was drizzly, wet and rainy, and the town looked almost misty.
I turned into Katoomba Street Square (Civic Place), entering the neatly decorated café, ordering my omelette and a large latte.
The latte was brought out first and was absolutely delicious, (this seems to be a trend with French titled cafes as the one I visited in Newcastle was also great).
Next a huge omelette was brought out to me. 'This could feed two' I thought as I tucked into the delicious, if not overly large omelette with the 'toulouse sausage' and lot of caramelised onions.
I turned into Katoomba Street Square (Civic Place), entering the neatly decorated café, ordering my omelette and a large latte.
The latte was brought out first and was absolutely delicious, (this seems to be a trend with French titled cafes as the one I visited in Newcastle was also great).
Next a huge omelette was brought out to me. 'This could feed two' I thought as I tucked into the delicious, if not overly large omelette with the 'toulouse sausage' and lot of caramelised onions.
I finished my coffee before my omelette, wishing I had another to drink as it was so delicious, as I just managed to stuff myself and eat the last of the omelette.
I looked at my phone to check the time, figuring I had better start my day, and head out once more to Evan's Lookout to begin the 'Grand Canyon walk'.
I decided to grab another coffee to take away, just because it was so good.
Arriving back at the Metropole and walking back up the stairs to my room on the third floor my legs felt ok, and I thought to myself that even if they weren't going to be I would push through anyway.
I lounged around a little reading my book (Odyssey by Stephen Fry, as mentioned in my Day 1 post, as many things will reference).
I looked at my phone to check the time, figuring I had better start my day, and head out once more to Evan's Lookout to begin the 'Grand Canyon walk'.
I decided to grab another coffee to take away, just because it was so good.
Arriving back at the Metropole and walking back up the stairs to my room on the third floor my legs felt ok, and I thought to myself that even if they weren't going to be I would push through anyway.
I lounged around a little reading my book (Odyssey by Stephen Fry, as mentioned in my Day 1 post, as many things will reference).
Finishing my coffee, I got changed into my walking clothes for the day, packing my bag (and especially my isotonic drink), heading down to my car and setting off to Evan's Lookout to begin my day.
I drove right to the end to the lookout this time, sitting in the car to apply sunscreen while rain gently fell on my windscreen. I made sure to turn my headlights off, as I locked up my car and walked over to the lookout to see nothing.
It was a valley of mist, with absolutely nothing visible in the current weather.
'Lucky, I came out here yesterday and saw it.' I thought.
It was a valley of mist, with absolutely nothing visible in the current weather.
'Lucky, I came out here yesterday and saw it.' I thought.
I headed across to the top of the stairs down into the canyon, with a sign pointing down informing me that it would be 3-4 hours, with many steep sections and creek crossings. It also informed me that 'Neates Glen' was this way 'via the 'Grand Canyon.
I began heading down into the misty valley, down the winding stairs. I soon found the mist seemed to keep its distance, as it was now only overhead, and off in the forest between the trees, giving the whole walk a more mystical feeling (no pun intended).
I began heading down into the misty valley, down the winding stairs. I soon found the mist seemed to keep its distance, as it was now only overhead, and off in the forest between the trees, giving the whole walk a more mystical feeling (no pun intended).
It was raining the entire time, but it was just a fine spray that I never found myself getting too wet. The bush down here was lively with little birds scurrying about and vibrant with wildflowers.
I stopped to try to photograph/film some of the birds, but they were hopping and fluttering around too fast for me to get anything of value. While I was doing this, I noticed a younger man and an older man making their way down the stairs towards me, and so I moved on, continuing my decent into the canyon.
I stopped and moved out of the way to take photos of some rock formations allowing the two to pass me, as I figured I'd be stopping every so often and they would eventually catch up and overtake me. The younger male stopped on the stairs before he reached me, with the older male who I assumed was his father, photographing him from behind, before they eventually passed me and continued down.
I waited for a few minutes for them to get a decent way ahead so they wouldn't be in the way the entire time, before I too continued heading down.
I reached the top of a large section of stairs that now seemed to head into the start of the canyon, from the top I could still see the two, with the older gentlemen continuing to take photos of the younger man while he posed like he was walking. I waited for them to start moving once more before I began my descent.
I reached the bottom, passing over a few stone slab steps usually reserved for waterways, before passing an overhang cave and once more heading further down.
The further down I got the soil I was walking on became more sodden. The foliage around me was wet, and brushed water onto me as I passed. Compared to the feeling on the forests I had walked through yesterday this felt like a rainforest.
Soon a young thin man in glasses had made his way down behind me, but he was also stopping to take photos so wasn't gaining to fast. I stopped to photograph a tree and moved on and I would notice he would stop and photograph the same spot. The trail, then winded down around a bend and I took a photo of a tiny little waterfall, and he would do the same thing, just always a little behind.
Soon the man had caught up with me and I stopped to let him past while I took a sip of my isotonic drink. Fearful of more horrendous cramps.
I followed down after him allowing him to gain some distance before I continued down, crossing a little creek with pure crystal-clear waters.
It wasn't a hard trail to follow, the path was very clear and not the sort of walk that needs directions, which is why I was shocked when I rounded a corner to see someone had drawn a big white arrow onto the side of the rock.
'Yeah, where else would they go?' I thought, shaking my head about how unnecessary it was.
There were streams running on either side at some points, with water cascading off rocks, continuing down the stream as I walked the direction it was coming from.
I crossed a little bridge and noticed a little pool that continued into a cave which I thought would be a magnificent place to swim, if I wasn't planning to be walking all day. And although I was hot and sweaty (it was incredibly humid down there), the idea of doing a lot of walking while wet (which always ends in terrible thigh chaffing) was enough to deter my desire for a little swim.
I continued up a few more stairs, when I got to a long and maybe most beautiful stretch of the canyon.
It was slightly more open in this section, and the fine sleet rain almost glowed from the light of the sun as it beamed into canyon.
I crossed to a side underneath cover following a dirt track, before the track began to cross from side to side within the canyon.
It was wild and primordial. Lush, beautiful wilderness that seemed like an area they'd film something like 'Walking with Dinosaurs' in because it looked so natural and untouched (beside the obvious walking tracks).
Obligatory selfie to prove I was there |
Every so often I simply stopped to admire my surroundings, while also using these moments for a bit of hydration, swapping between sipping on my 1 litre isotonic drink and drinking my water.
I walked up the stairs and around a corner, where a group of people were sitting resting. I noticed two younger girls who were removing their jackets and as I had walked past, they soon followed right behind me.
The trail began at a gradual incline but continued to get steeper and steeper and I could feel myself struggling in the heat and with my tired legs. I turned towards them.
"You can go ahead." I said, "You'll probably be quicker than me."
"You can go ahead." I said, "You'll probably be quicker than me."
"I don't know about that." They laughed, panting. "We'll probably see you again soon." One of them said as they continued on ahead.
I continued trudging on up, panting the entire time, occasionally stopping for a little sip of my isotonic drink, swapping between that and a big guzzle of water. Soon the young skinny man wearing glasses began his way down past me.
"Made it to the end already?" I asked him. Unsure if he had or if he was just turning back. He seemed shocked that I was speaking to him and replied, "I only had a limited time." He said smiling, and I thought he sounded like he might be French.
"Made it to the end already?" I asked him. Unsure if he had or if he was just turning back. He seemed shocked that I was speaking to him and replied, "I only had a limited time." He said smiling, and I thought he sounded like he might be French.
Soon what seemed like a large group of school kids or maybe some outdoor scout group was descending, and I stood to the side to allow them to pass and noticed the two girls a short way up from me doing the same. The kids were all surprisingly polite and courteous, I noticed they thanked the girls for letting them past and then would do the same as they passed me.
After they had passed, I continued uphill, huffing and buffing with my legs burning and I didn't stop until I had reached the top, where another new group was sitting and having a break, eating mandarins. I noticed the girls were nowhere in sight, and being much fitter than me, had ploughed ahead.
I was struggling to get the oxygen I needed (likely due to my lung damaged I received during chemo), but didn't want to curl over and die in front of all these people so I stood at a rail that was up here, looking over a hill in the valley while I slowed my breathing and had a drink of water.
After they had passed, I continued uphill, huffing and buffing with my legs burning and I didn't stop until I had reached the top, where another new group was sitting and having a break, eating mandarins. I noticed the girls were nowhere in sight, and being much fitter than me, had ploughed ahead.
I was struggling to get the oxygen I needed (likely due to my lung damaged I received during chemo), but didn't want to curl over and die in front of all these people so I stood at a rail that was up here, looking over a hill in the valley while I slowed my breathing and had a drink of water.
Once I had regulated my breathing, I continued on the flat trail that was now continuing from up on a cliff ledge with the metal railing continuing along the way for safety.
After rounding another corner, I saw a group of three people sitting having a break beneath and overhang. The young guy who was there greeted me and I said hello back, while noting that he looked like famous rock climber Adam Ondra (of course it wasn't but he was facially similar).
I was enjoying the flatness of the walk now and being up that bit higher and out from the depths of the valley the temperature felt less muggy.
I had now caught up with the younger son and his older father and he was still taking photos of him all the way along. I wondered to myself if he himself was a blogger, documenting his journey through.
I quickly passed them, continuing at a fast pace while looking down into the giant cavass that cut along beside me on my right.
I could hear the echoes of voices, and to me it sounded like they were coming from down below. I could also hear the loud sound of running water and I wondered if there were canyoners down there, like the young man I had seen in the wet suit the afternoon before.
My questions were answered as I continued along and found the location of their descent.
'That would be cool to do.' I thought to myself, looking down for a sight of anything down below, but nothing was visible.
From early on in the walk I had started burping, with the toulouse sausages and caramalised onions from my omelette repeating on me. Once more I did a little burp, holding my fist to my mouth, and thinking that my huge omelette had been a regrettable choice.
'Why does it taste like garlic I thought?' Before remembering the onions.
'Why does it taste like garlic I thought?' Before remembering the onions.
Everywhere along the walk was beautiful, but the thing with walking is it passes you by so fast sometimes and taking that photo (and writing about it) sometimes helps retain these details and memories in your mind. While a lot of things go on in my life day to day, this blog detailing my life is pretty much limited and restricted to these experiences, as a lot of them are the ones I wish to remember. I thought about this trip, and others and how I wish that each day was filled with them rather than the monotony of work. Even at night when I went to sleep the other night, thinking about this blog I rethought about the walking, going through and remembering it while I laid in bed trying to sleep. I thought about all the walks from my time in the Blue Mountains, then many of my other numerous walks, and that thrill and excitement I get going to a new area and having that freedom to explore.
As I reached another set of stairs and began the climb up, I started having an internal (and made up) debate with someone online. That morning when I had been sitting in the French cafe enjoying my coffee and now repeating omelette, I had read an article on my Facebook news feed about banning people from doing the Belmore Falls and Gerringong Falls walks.
I knew about the controversy of these walks due to people getting injured, but in my mind, these were people with inadequate experience in these sorts of terrains, and other times accidents can just occur in outdoor adventure activities. I thought about the Missingham Steps walk and how that has a warning at the start.
One of the comments in particular I thought of. "Good" Someone had written, and I didn't think banning people from exploration and adventure was 'good'. Life is sometimes dangerous, and we shouldn't gatekeep and ban people from activities. People shouldn't get hurt and it's regrettable, but 'how much do we nanny the world?' I thought. Pointing out in my 'fake debate' I was only having in my head (as I was never going to go down the Facebook comment argument rabbit hole), that we could just as easily ban people from driving cars as there are so many car accidents or ban people surfing or swimming at the beach because of rips, drownings and sharks.
All this I thought about as I climbed to the top of the short stairs, with a short dark cave you walked through at the top.
The area opened up to large flat area with a little creek running along to the right of me just below the cliff wall.
As I continued along there was a family with their two children get ready to head up some stairs to the left of me. Behind them was a flat walk underneath an overhang.
I questioned them whether there was anything down that way, and they said although it wasn't the walk it was still nice to see, so I headed down that way to explore.
I questioned them whether there was anything down that way, and they said although it wasn't the walk it was still nice to see, so I headed down that way to explore.
At the end of the overhang, I reached a little section of creek. It was just too deep for me to walk through (I was wearing joggers), and just too far to jump over. But there were some little wooden logs and so I decided to try and balance my way across.
I attempted to cross whilst trying to capture the footage on my phone. However, the logs were much more wobblily than I anticipated and so I put my phone away, using my arms to balance and easily cross over.
Looking back across |
I followed what looked like a track a small way down until it abruptly ended, and I realised that I was strolling off into the wilderness. I stopped for a little to hydrate. I thought about my Go-Pro I had packed, that since receiving as a gift I had only so far used to film inside the Silfra Fissure in Iceland.
I had also since purchased a strap to wear it on my head which I had yet to utilise as well. I decided to try it to film walking back across the creek.
I prepped it all, placing it on top of the brim of my hat and headed back to the creek.
As I reached it to cross, I noticed two people on the other side, a man and a woman.
I was about to continue crossing when I realised the woman was squatting with her pants down.
'Is she taking a shit?' I thought, before maybe thinking she was doing a wee.
However, I soon noticed her holding a phone in her hand, pointing it up at her nether region.
I stood frozen, thinking maybe I should call out 'Somebodies here!', but the situation was so suss and I didn't want to turn and head the other direction, and neither had noticed me standing there with a filming Go-Pro on top of my head. I decided to head across, grabbing a hold of a thin tree on my right as I went to step onto the logs, and shake it a bit vigorously to make some noise so they would notice me, while I kept my head down acting like I didn't see them.
'Is she taking a shit?' I thought, before maybe thinking she was doing a wee.
However, I soon noticed her holding a phone in her hand, pointing it up at her nether region.
I stood frozen, thinking maybe I should call out 'Somebodies here!', but the situation was so suss and I didn't want to turn and head the other direction, and neither had noticed me standing there with a filming Go-Pro on top of my head. I decided to head across, grabbing a hold of a thin tree on my right as I went to step onto the logs, and shake it a bit vigorously to make some noise so they would notice me, while I kept my head down acting like I didn't see them.
I noticed in my peripherals that they heard me right away, with the lady quicky yanking up her pants and the man turning away like he hadn't seen me either.
I continued right by them, back underneath the overhang past a new group of people arriving and headed up the stairs to continue my walk, only later reviewing the footage when I was back at my accommodation that night. I decided to upload the footage because it doesn't capture anything to gratuitous, funny and embarrassing more than anything. However, the Go Pro files were far too large for Bloggers crappy video uploading to handle, so it was sent through Facebook messenger and then redownloaded to be compressed (if I had the money to make this more of an actual website then the free blogging program I would but as I don't make any money doing this, shitty videos it is!)
Making my way up the stairs I couldn't think help rethinking about what a weird scenario I had walked in on. 'Was she photographing her ass?' I thought. As well as musing about it being the first thing to capture on my very first use of my Go-pro head strap.
The trail continued up and I could not see the top of the cliffs, giving me an idea of how far I still had left to ascend.
The trail continued up and around, opening up for a section and feeling very different to the dense greenery from deep within the canyon.
I thought about the two girls I had let ahead earlier in the walk.
"See you soon again soon." They had said.
'There's no way, I', catching them.' I thought to myself, as I watched the little running stream continue to weave to-and-fro off on my right.
"See you soon again soon." They had said.
'There's no way, I', catching them.' I thought to myself, as I watched the little running stream continue to weave to-and-fro off on my right.
As I rounded a corner I spotted a crossing, and as I approached read a signpost that it was only now 30 minutes to 'Neates Glen carpark'.
I stopped in the middle of the little creek, admiring the running water as I watched it flow, looking in both directions. I felt the way I always feel around running water. A weird surreal spiritual connection. A comfort and peace. I wondered where it stemmed from.
Was it my childhood camping holidays every year down in Coolendel and swimming in the rapids? I couldn't give you a reason, maybe there was some sort of inherited instinct, but then, why do we feel the way we do about anything?
The way people view the beach as their church. They love the sand, the waves, the salt water and the sound of gulls. That was how I felt around creeks, rivers, streams and running water.
Was it my childhood camping holidays every year down in Coolendel and swimming in the rapids? I couldn't give you a reason, maybe there was some sort of inherited instinct, but then, why do we feel the way we do about anything?
The way people view the beach as their church. They love the sand, the waves, the salt water and the sound of gulls. That was how I felt around creeks, rivers, streams and running water.
As I stood watching the water flow, a gentle breeze was blowing over the water. It was cooling upon my sweaty skin, and I felt like time slowed and I was at peace. But peace is always only temporary, and I had to get a move on, finally crossing and beginning to ascend on the other side.
As I trudged uphill my mind continued on that thought process. About beach people, surfing, fishing, they'd even buy artwork of the beach and stylise their homes. I thought about art and how I find art featuring streams, river and creeks also beautiful. There was some aesthetic there that made me feel moved.
Once more I stopped just to hydrate with a sip of isotonic and then swapping to water. My legs were feeling ok, but I was making sure to be cautious, this wasn't the only walk I wanted to do today. I took a moment to breathe as some people passed me, just beginning their decent into the Grand Canyon.
I trudged up the remaining stairs, focused on my goal of reaching the top, trying to keep a consistent pattern of breathing, always thinking about the damage to my lungs from my chemotherapy. I wondered if I was too fixated on it and how much a difference it was making or whether I was just short of breath from a lack of fitness.
Soon I reached the top, which opened up onto the road I had driven down to reach Evan's Lookout.
There was a dirt trail off to the side heading towards Evan's Lookout so I began to follow it, heading back towards my car.
I soon reached the area with the bathroom where I had initially pulled up the day prior before walking through to Evan's Lookout. I followed that same trail down and arrived back at the lookout carpark.
I decided I wanted to follow the trail that was just in front of the toilets here, which was called the 'Cliff Top Track'.
However, I let myself have a little break, using the toilets, and sitting down to eat some seaweed crackers. While I snacked on them, I read a signpost nearby that explained the difference in 'Walking Grades'
I moved on to reading about the nearby walks, particularly interested in the 'Grand Canyon Track', 'Cliff Top Track' (which I was about to do), and 'Walls Cave' (which I planned to do afterwards).
"Grand Canyon Track
Grade 3: Hard, steep
Time: 3-4 hr
Distance: 6.3km loop
First established in 1907 this historic loop walk descends over 200m elevation to Greaves Creek where the sheltered valley supports a small rainforest. Ever-present waterfalls and luscious native vegetation of ferns and golden wattles line this challenging walk."
Grade 3: Hard, steep
Time: 3-4 hr
Distance: 6.3km loop
First established in 1907 this historic loop walk descends over 200m elevation to Greaves Creek where the sheltered valley supports a small rainforest. Ever-present waterfalls and luscious native vegetation of ferns and golden wattles line this challenging walk."
"Cliff Top Track
Grade 3: Medium
Time: 3-3.5 hr
Distance: 6km return
The return walking track, between here and Govetts Leap, offers some of the most breathtaking scenic views in the Blue Mountains with endless view points along the way. Barrow Lookout, en route, boasts views of the Grose Valley as well as the remarkable hanging swamp."
Grade 3: Medium
Time: 3-3.5 hr
Distance: 6km return
The return walking track, between here and Govetts Leap, offers some of the most breathtaking scenic views in the Blue Mountains with endless view points along the way. Barrow Lookout, en route, boasts views of the Grose Valley as well as the remarkable hanging swamp."
"Walls Cave
Grade 3: Medium, many steps
Time: 1-1.5 hr
Distance: 2km return
Accessed from Walls Cave Rd (off Evans Lookout Rd) this amazing short hike has stunning scenery and 1km of steps. At the bottom you are rewarded with a spectacular area to explore that includes the cave, a pool, stepping stones, fern filled vistas and a slot canyon."
Grade 3: Medium, many steps
Time: 1-1.5 hr
Distance: 2km return
Accessed from Walls Cave Rd (off Evans Lookout Rd) this amazing short hike has stunning scenery and 1km of steps. At the bottom you are rewarded with a spectacular area to explore that includes the cave, a pool, stepping stones, fern filled vistas and a slot canyon."
I didn't want to waste too much of my day resting, so I set off along the Cliff Top Track, seaweed crackers in hand, snacking as I walked.
There was a lovely gentle breeze blowing and I stopped to watch the leaves in the trees get gently blown, feeling the serenity and peace of nature.
Every now and then I could see a little trail off the path, down to a lookout over the valley, and I would stop and inspect each of them, taking in the views, which were now visible, as the fog had seemingly floated up to become cloud cover.
From one of them I could see a little waterfall in the distance spilling over the cliff edge.
Walking along, I enjoyed all the views out over the valley, but also on my left all the different varieties of wildflowers and the occasional termite mound.
I approached a sign about 'Hayward Gully' (William Hayward is reputed to be the first white man to reach the floor of Govetts gorge in 1847).
"Deep Green Govetts Gorge
The story of Govett Gorge and Grose valley spans millions of years.
The slow development of the great valleys, adaptation of plants to climate change and the evolution of animal species has occurred without the interference of humans.
Human occupation of the mountains began perhaps 22,000 years ago. Australian Aborigines developed a sustainable culture in an often harsh environment.
The coming of European culture about 200 years ago places enormous pressure on the environment. Can you imagine the Grose valley as a modern transport corridor or a huge lake? Consider these proposals:
* 1857-60 a railway to the west along the Grose River with a tunnel through to Hartley.
* 1867-69 Damming the Grose River for Sydney's water supply.
* 1875 The valley was reserved as a water catchment.
* 1921 Coal mines in the valley.
* 1925 Re-surveyed for the building of a dam.
* 1930's Blue Gum Forest held a private lease.
As a result of community action in 1932, the Blue Gum Forest was dedicated as a Public Reserve.
In 1959 Blue Mountains National Park was declared, including many of the cliff top reserves and the Blue Gum Forest."
"Deep Green Govetts Gorge
The story of Govett Gorge and Grose valley spans millions of years.
The slow development of the great valleys, adaptation of plants to climate change and the evolution of animal species has occurred without the interference of humans.
Human occupation of the mountains began perhaps 22,000 years ago. Australian Aborigines developed a sustainable culture in an often harsh environment.
The coming of European culture about 200 years ago places enormous pressure on the environment. Can you imagine the Grose valley as a modern transport corridor or a huge lake? Consider these proposals:
* 1857-60 a railway to the west along the Grose River with a tunnel through to Hartley.
* 1867-69 Damming the Grose River for Sydney's water supply.
* 1875 The valley was reserved as a water catchment.
* 1921 Coal mines in the valley.
* 1925 Re-surveyed for the building of a dam.
* 1930's Blue Gum Forest held a private lease.
As a result of community action in 1932, the Blue Gum Forest was dedicated as a Public Reserve.
In 1959 Blue Mountains National Park was declared, including many of the cliff top reserves and the Blue Gum Forest."
"Voices in the Wilderness
A history of community concern:
Local trusts, volunteers and local government organisations are a part of the history of the park. Individuals and groups of concerned citizens have saved this unique landscape for us all. Without the protests and actions of these groups, people such as Myles Dunphy, Alan Rigby, and organisations such as the Sydney Bush Walkers and the Mountain Trail Club, public concern for our heritage may have gone unnoticed.
It is just as important today to be active n voicing our concerns about the natural environment. The wild quality of this part of NSW is threatened by the impacts of urban development, pollution, water quality, weeds, feral animals and too frequent wildfire. If you are concerned about the quality of the last remaining areas of wild country in this state, your opinion and commitment can make a difference."
A history of community concern:
Local trusts, volunteers and local government organisations are a part of the history of the park. Individuals and groups of concerned citizens have saved this unique landscape for us all. Without the protests and actions of these groups, people such as Myles Dunphy, Alan Rigby, and organisations such as the Sydney Bush Walkers and the Mountain Trail Club, public concern for our heritage may have gone unnoticed.
It is just as important today to be active n voicing our concerns about the natural environment. The wild quality of this part of NSW is threatened by the impacts of urban development, pollution, water quality, weeds, feral animals and too frequent wildfire. If you are concerned about the quality of the last remaining areas of wild country in this state, your opinion and commitment can make a difference."
"Between the ranges lie yawning chasms, deep and winding gorges and frightful precipices. Narrow gloomy and profound, these stupendous rents in the bosom of the Earth are enclosed between gigantic walls of sandstone rock, sometimes frightfully overhanging the dark bed of ravines and its black silent eddies or its flowing torrents of water." - Sir Paul Edmund Strzelecki, 1938.
Everywhere I looked there was something new and wonderful. Spectacular wild beauties abounded.
I began the photograph much of the flora, not for my blog, but just to identify later on iNaturalist.
There were some I could identify, like the bits of red popping up in the bush on my left, floating high above the ferns. How could anyone not recognise the very distinctive Waratah? I continued collecting images of Flora when I noticed a piece of jewelry on the dirt trail in front of me. A little cross or crucifix with bright pink jewels, and a few random pearls (probably fake ones).
I still thought it was a weird thing to see, and then my Wife's 'true crime paranoia' crept into me, and I began to image the scene of a crime. However, I thought it had probably been either dropped by a child, or inconspicuously caught on a branch and come off, and shook any ill thoughts from my mind and assumed that it was probably less likely to be something suspicious and rather something more innocuous.
I quickly froze while walking. Not because of crazy serial killers, but instead because I spotted a Lyrebird on the trail in front of me.
I still thought it was a weird thing to see, and then my Wife's 'true crime paranoia' crept into me, and I began to image the scene of a crime. However, I thought it had probably been either dropped by a child, or inconspicuously caught on a branch and come off, and shook any ill thoughts from my mind and assumed that it was probably less likely to be something suspicious and rather something more innocuous.
I quickly froze while walking. Not because of crazy serial killers, but instead because I spotted a Lyrebird on the trail in front of me.
"Grose Wilderness
In 2001 The Grose Velley was declared a Wilderness Area. This is the highest protection we can give to a natural area.
The aim is to protect these large natural areas, the functioning of their ecosystems, and their processes of evolution with a minimum of human interference.
The National parks and Wildlife Service manages wilderness so that native plant and animal communities are disturbed as little as possible. Pest animal control, weed control, and bushfire management are all important parts of this management. Where possible, the Service uses management strategies that do not change the environment."
In 2001 The Grose Velley was declared a Wilderness Area. This is the highest protection we can give to a natural area.
The aim is to protect these large natural areas, the functioning of their ecosystems, and their processes of evolution with a minimum of human interference.
The National parks and Wildlife Service manages wilderness so that native plant and animal communities are disturbed as little as possible. Pest animal control, weed control, and bushfire management are all important parts of this management. Where possible, the Service uses management strategies that do not change the environment."
"World Heritage
The Blue Mountains have been described as a natural laboratory for the evolution of eucalypts. In the mountains' diverse plant communities, you can trace the changing nature of the Australian environment - from geological shifts and climate variations, through to the impact of Aboriginal settlement and European colonisation.
More than one hundred different eucalypt species are found in the Greater Blue Mountains - some 13 percent of all eucalypt species in the world. They grow in a great variety of communities; from tall closed forests, through open forest and woodlands, to the stunted mallee shrub-lands on the plateaus."
The Blue Mountains have been described as a natural laboratory for the evolution of eucalypts. In the mountains' diverse plant communities, you can trace the changing nature of the Australian environment - from geological shifts and climate variations, through to the impact of Aboriginal settlement and European colonisation.
More than one hundred different eucalypt species are found in the Greater Blue Mountains - some 13 percent of all eucalypt species in the world. They grow in a great variety of communities; from tall closed forests, through open forest and woodlands, to the stunted mallee shrub-lands on the plateaus."
My legs were tired from all my walking as I came to a section of stairs leading down now, but from here I also spotted a lookout high up a mountain in the distance, which seemed like a far way away, and I'll be honest, I hadn't fully taken in the distance when I had begun the walk. I was tired, and hyped up and instead of '6km return' I had somehow convinced myself that this was only a 2km walk (I have no idea how that got put in my head), but with how far I had already walked I was beginning to question that.
Reaching the bottom of the stairs I found myself at another lookout, the Barrow Lookout. I stood taking in the views over the valley, before I tried to take a photo in panorama mode, however that's often fraught with danger of appearing squished (which occurred to me while taking it.) So here is a view of the valley a photo at a time moving from right to left.
The cliffs below are constantly wet from water seeping through rock. The mat of vegetation sometimes becomes so heavy it falls off the cliff.
Almost immediately it begins growing again.
The damp cliffs near Horseshoe Falls surround The Jungle, an area of warm temperate rainforest with huge trees, vines and forests of ferns."
"Insect eating plants
Bladderworts have subterranean leaves like bladders that draw in and eat microorganisms living in the water.
Sundews (Drosera sp.) trap insects on sticky glandular hair covered tendrils, and then slowly digest them. Sundew flowers are not sticky, so insects can pollinate them.
When the wind is strong, water from the falls is blown back up, adding a fine mist to the already soaking cliff."
Bladderworts have subterranean leaves like bladders that draw in and eat microorganisms living in the water.
Sundews (Drosera sp.) trap insects on sticky glandular hair covered tendrils, and then slowly digest them. Sundew flowers are not sticky, so insects can pollinate them.
When the wind is strong, water from the falls is blown back up, adding a fine mist to the already soaking cliff."
I continued heading down towards the waterfall, as I came to a split in the trail. I could continue on along the Cliff Top track towards the waterfall (which was only a few metres away), or I could turn down the Braeside Track, which was apparently 1.2km or a 20min walk.
"Braeside Track
Braeside Walk follows the creek to an old railway water supply dam. To return to Govetts Leap, or walk back to Blackheath, follow the fire trail to the right from the carpark at the other end of Braeside Walk.
Wetland habitats in the Blue Mountains are home to many special plants and animals. Giant Dragonflies and Blue Mountains Skink both live here."
"The Age of Dragonflies
The Giant Dragonfly 'Petalura gigantea', found in the Blue Mountains wetlands, is one of the largest dragonflies in Australia.
Fossil dragonflies are found in rocks between 360 to 286 million years old, some even older. The climate at that time supported vast swamps that have since turned to coal.
Insects swarmed over the planet, adjusting to extremes of heat and cold. Wetlands are still important to dragonflies.
Giant dragonfly larvae burrow in the soft peaty soil of the wetland, eating other bugs and grubs, before emerging as dragonflies. The wetland provides a living filter for the water that trickles steadily down the stream."
I did contemplate the detour, but instead continued on towards the waterfall (it's on my list when I return to the Blue Mountains but I'll start the walk at Govetts Leap).
Braeside Walk follows the creek to an old railway water supply dam. To return to Govetts Leap, or walk back to Blackheath, follow the fire trail to the right from the carpark at the other end of Braeside Walk.
Wetland habitats in the Blue Mountains are home to many special plants and animals. Giant Dragonflies and Blue Mountains Skink both live here."
"The Age of Dragonflies
The Giant Dragonfly 'Petalura gigantea', found in the Blue Mountains wetlands, is one of the largest dragonflies in Australia.
Fossil dragonflies are found in rocks between 360 to 286 million years old, some even older. The climate at that time supported vast swamps that have since turned to coal.
Insects swarmed over the planet, adjusting to extremes of heat and cold. Wetlands are still important to dragonflies.
Giant dragonfly larvae burrow in the soft peaty soil of the wetland, eating other bugs and grubs, before emerging as dragonflies. The wetland provides a living filter for the water that trickles steadily down the stream."
I did contemplate the detour, but instead continued on towards the waterfall (it's on my list when I return to the Blue Mountains but I'll start the walk at Govetts Leap).
The was a crossing over the stream that led to the edge of the cliff, where the stream became the waterfall. I waited for some boyfriend to photograph his girlfriend (or wife/fiancée) crossing, while the sign on my left told me I had as little as 650m left to Govetts Leap Lookout (30mins).
They apologised for taking so long to cross. "All good." I responded, before taking my own sweet time crossing to capture the natural beauty of the location.
After crossing, I began the ascent up towards the lookout. I huffed and puffs my way up, feeling warm and tired now. As I slowly made my way up an older lady was making her way down.
She made a comment about it being like that coming back up (I think I was maybe making her worry about progressing on as she saw a younger mostly fit male seemingly struggling). I told her that I had done the Grand Canyon walk early this morning, and had been walking yesterday too so my legs were just beginning to cramp up a bit.
She seemed a little shocked that I was still walking (and in my head I just thought that I hadn't even mentioned my lung damage from the chemo).
I asked if it was much further, and she said that it wasn't. I wished her a good day and ploughed on, up as fast as I could, not stopping until I reached the flat top, continuing along a short way before it opened up at the lookout with the large carpark on my left.
She made a comment about it being like that coming back up (I think I was maybe making her worry about progressing on as she saw a younger mostly fit male seemingly struggling). I told her that I had done the Grand Canyon walk early this morning, and had been walking yesterday too so my legs were just beginning to cramp up a bit.
She seemed a little shocked that I was still walking (and in my head I just thought that I hadn't even mentioned my lung damage from the chemo).
I asked if it was much further, and she said that it wasn't. I wished her a good day and ploughed on, up as fast as I could, not stopping until I reached the flat top, continuing along a short way before it opened up at the lookout with the large carpark on my left.
I continued along the lookout towards the other end, past a little memorial explaining the naming of Govett's Leap.
I stood at the lookout, admiring the valley. I pictured myself flying through it like superman, the wind blowing through my hair (which is no longer there, but it was a fantasy), and seeing the valley as if I was a bird or a drone.
I looked down at the best view of the waterfall, wondering if there was a walk that took you to the base of it.
I looked down at the best view of the waterfall, wondering if there was a walk that took you to the base of it.
I continued around the outskirt and fenced area of the lookout, past another old brick well thing reminding me of the one at the top near the kiosk at Katoomba Falls.
I walked around the fencing, bending back in to walk past a Banksia tree (which you can see in the back left of the well image), where a group of tourists were trying to photograph a Lorikeet. The walk continued down and split off into two different tracks, which multiple walks mentioned from both of them.
I wanted to do them all (although a little sign on the right did say that Pulpit Rock was currently closed due to track maintenance). It was late in the afternoon, my legs were tired and I knew I had to still do the walk back. So knowing my limits, they all went on my 'next time' list, along with the Braeside walk.
I headed to a nearby toilet block, then had one last look out over the magnificent valley, before I began the return walk.
Just as I got to the beginning of the flat section at the top of the stairs I ran into an older man and woman.
"This is the young man I was talking about." The lady said to her husband (I assume). I looked at her, and thought she looked different to the lady I had spoken to on my ascent, but assumed I just hadn't paid that much attention.
She mentioned I had the long walk back, and they offered to give me a lift around to Evan's Lookout to my car.
I contemplated the offer, (mostly because then I thought I could sneak in the Wall's Cave walk that day), but ultimately I replied: "I better walk it. I'll be disappointed with myself if I don't."
I told them I had one more day of hiking tomorrow before I had the drive back to Wollongong.
"Oh there's some good walks in Wollongong." The lady said.
"Yeah, but nothing like this." I said, gesturing out over the Grose Valley. "This is pristine wilderness, there's a reason it's a heritage area." I said, admiring it.
They mentioned they were up at the Blue Mountains for there sons wedding, and that all their kids were avid climbers and hikers too.
I once more thanked them for the kind offer of the lift, letting them know I appreciated the kindness, before I continued back on the walk, feeling like I wouldn't have 'completed' it had I not walked back.
I headed back down towards the waterfall when I encountered the woman I had spoken to as I had been walking up them.
'Oh no!" She said. "They said they were going to offer you a lift!"
Well this explained why the lady had looked different! It had been a completely different person!
"Oh they did." I reassured her. "But I wouldn't have felt like I had done the proper walk if I didn't return." I explained to her.
She made a comment about it 'being like that when you're young and fit' and I once more thought about my sad shitty lungs but didn't say anything.
I wished her a good day as she now began her climb and I continued on past the waterfall, before beginning my climb up to the Barrow Lookout, and then up even more occasionally stopping to stretch my legs to avoid cramps.
As I continued along now all the fog and mist had blown on top of me, and I walked through the misty forest trail, with light rain now cooling down my hot and sweaty body.
Just as I got to the beginning of the flat section at the top of the stairs I ran into an older man and woman.
"This is the young man I was talking about." The lady said to her husband (I assume). I looked at her, and thought she looked different to the lady I had spoken to on my ascent, but assumed I just hadn't paid that much attention.
She mentioned I had the long walk back, and they offered to give me a lift around to Evan's Lookout to my car.
I contemplated the offer, (mostly because then I thought I could sneak in the Wall's Cave walk that day), but ultimately I replied: "I better walk it. I'll be disappointed with myself if I don't."
I told them I had one more day of hiking tomorrow before I had the drive back to Wollongong.
"Oh there's some good walks in Wollongong." The lady said.
"Yeah, but nothing like this." I said, gesturing out over the Grose Valley. "This is pristine wilderness, there's a reason it's a heritage area." I said, admiring it.
They mentioned they were up at the Blue Mountains for there sons wedding, and that all their kids were avid climbers and hikers too.
I once more thanked them for the kind offer of the lift, letting them know I appreciated the kindness, before I continued back on the walk, feeling like I wouldn't have 'completed' it had I not walked back.
I headed back down towards the waterfall when I encountered the woman I had spoken to as I had been walking up them.
'Oh no!" She said. "They said they were going to offer you a lift!"
Well this explained why the lady had looked different! It had been a completely different person!
"Oh they did." I reassured her. "But I wouldn't have felt like I had done the proper walk if I didn't return." I explained to her.
She made a comment about it 'being like that when you're young and fit' and I once more thought about my sad shitty lungs but didn't say anything.
I wished her a good day as she now began her climb and I continued on past the waterfall, before beginning my climb up to the Barrow Lookout, and then up even more occasionally stopping to stretch my legs to avoid cramps.
As I continued along now all the fog and mist had blown on top of me, and I walked through the misty forest trail, with light rain now cooling down my hot and sweaty body.
I loved the walk back (when I wasn't trudging uphill), and somehow the mist made the walk feel like it was completely new and different. I finally got back to my car as the rain began to get a bit heavier, and it was late enough in the afternoon that I thought I could return to my hotel, have a shower and head out for dinner.
As I made my way back to the Metropole I noticed a little park across from my accommodation (Kingsford Smith Park). It wasn't a hike or bushwalk, but I thought I should go for a walk down to explore it, as it looked quite beautiful to me.
So before heading in for a shower I walked down the steep driveway of the Metropole carpark, and down the stairs and around the park for an explore.
As I made my way back to the Metropole I noticed a little park across from my accommodation (Kingsford Smith Park). It wasn't a hike or bushwalk, but I thought I should go for a walk down to explore it, as it looked quite beautiful to me.
So before heading in for a shower I walked down the steep driveway of the Metropole carpark, and down the stairs and around the park for an explore.
I stood alone in the rainy field, thinking about luscious and green everything here was. I began the ascent out of the park with my tight legs having a shower and finishing off my electrolyte drink.
I got changed, heading out through the main street once more as I headed to 'Aunty Ed's' restaurant (as I had been intrigued by their cocktails).
I passed the Anglican Church across the Cattlefish (where I had eaten the night before), where I stopped to photograph all the Sulfur-crested Cockatoos.
I got changed, heading out through the main street once more as I headed to 'Aunty Ed's' restaurant (as I had been intrigued by their cocktails).
I passed the Anglican Church across the Cattlefish (where I had eaten the night before), where I stopped to photograph all the Sulfur-crested Cockatoos.
I headed down the steps into Aunty Ed's. I was greeted by a lady who showed me to my seat but got super excited when she saw me.
"Is that a Robin Hood shirt?" She asked me, thrilled that I was wearing it.
"Yeah it is". I said, happy that someone noticed my awesome Disney cartoon Robin Hood shirt.
I debated what to buy for dinner, but ended up being cheap and just getting a burger (the Piggy Stardust), so I could drink more.
I ordered the hot cider (Apple cider, apple juice, caramel and vanilla syrup, spiced mead and honey) and I was blown away by how delicious it tasted that I just wanted to drink more, but I decided to have a second drink of something different, getting a Amber Ale from 'Brew Mountains'. It was nice and hoppy, but afterwards decided I wanted yet another hot cider, having one more, sitting alone in the restaurant, enjoying the ambience and design. It felt warm and cosy, and although I was there in late November, with the weather the way it was I felt like I was in a warm English bar in the Winter.
"Is that a Robin Hood shirt?" She asked me, thrilled that I was wearing it.
"Yeah it is". I said, happy that someone noticed my awesome Disney cartoon Robin Hood shirt.
I debated what to buy for dinner, but ended up being cheap and just getting a burger (the Piggy Stardust), so I could drink more.
I ordered the hot cider (Apple cider, apple juice, caramel and vanilla syrup, spiced mead and honey) and I was blown away by how delicious it tasted that I just wanted to drink more, but I decided to have a second drink of something different, getting a Amber Ale from 'Brew Mountains'. It was nice and hoppy, but afterwards decided I wanted yet another hot cider, having one more, sitting alone in the restaurant, enjoying the ambience and design. It felt warm and cosy, and although I was there in late November, with the weather the way it was I felt like I was in a warm English bar in the Winter.
I finally headed back to my hotel. I felt a tinge of sadness that it would be my last night there. There was still so much to do and see. I hadn't scratched the surface of walks in the Blue Mountains, (and I began to question whether I do a yearly birthday pilgrimage!)
However, I laid down, setting an alarm on my phone. Although I would checkout tomorrow, I still had a third day in store full of walks to do.
To be continued on Day 3...
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Thanks for reading! - Steven
I enjoyed this read. Seems like a beautiful trip! -Chantal
ReplyDeleteLooks like such a beautiful walk, a long one for sure. I would love to take the kids but not sure if their feet would handle that distance.
ReplyDeleteCaryl Ann
http://letsroamandgo.com/
This place is amazing. I wish I was there. Beautiful pictures.
ReplyDelete