Months ago, my friend Nathan (who we visited on our Trip to Brisbane), was overseas doing his own Euro-Trip, where he proposed to his girlfriend Mei.
We received later an invite in the mail to the Wedding Reception up in Brisbane, and my Wife and I began planning our trip up. We decided to drive, taking advantage of the hybrid Rav-4's fuel economics (which worked out cheaper than flight tickets).
This also gave us freedom to move around and so we started planning a little holiday around it, in the Sunshine Coast (including stop overs in Coffs Harbour on the way up, and Port Macquarie on our return drive).
In our personal lives during this time, we were finally in a good position, far enough away from my cancer and treatment to begin trying for a child, after initially being told I wouldn't be able to due to my cancer treatment, however after returning from our trip to Iceland found the good 'ol boys had basically recovered (which I said was from the clean Icelandic water).
This next part may be a little too much information, but after trying 'once', I was at work the following morning when my Wife rang me distraught. "Can you come home, my Nan has died" she told me.
It was a great shock to the entire family. My Wife's Nan (Sue) was such a kind loving soul, and always so lively and fun, and it was such a great shock because it wasn't expected at all.
My Wife, who was super close with her Nan, in fact of all her family members I would say it is who she was the closest in the world too, and so there was a lot of grieving.
As the weeks went by (the funeral was held up as the body had to be investigated as Sue had been released by the hospital as she had gone in that night for a bad flu and was told she was better off at home because the hospital was 'full of covid').
The day before the funeral, my Wife (with some signs) asked me to stop in to by some pregnancy tests just to make sure so that she could drink at the Wake.
With a pack of three tests, my Wife tested positive for a baby (isn't that a fun way to describe it?) and immediately broke down crying thinking she had 'killed her Nan' by getting pregnant.
I tried to comfort her as we went through the grieving process as we approached the date of our trip, now going through the pregnancy motions of appointments, and stress, with a due date of March 2026.
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| RIP Susanne Culbert 18/07/1940 - 20/06/2025 |
As we approached our road trip date, I had been feeling tired and fatigued, so my Wife asked me to get a blood test as a precaution (as she didn't want my cancer to be back and be left as a single Mum).
I did the test and went in for me results the day before we left on our trip. The results were a little weird and the Dr mentioned I had 'pink blood cells' like those seen in alcoholics, with anemia, low vitamin D and low B12. I didn't know if this was usual, based on my past history and she didn't know either, writing a referral to my original cancer doctor. With this unnecessary stress looming over me, we set off in the road the next morning, heading north, leaving the Illawarra and Dharawal Country.
Day 1 (18th September 2025)- My Wife took the first shift driving (first and worst as she had to endure all the tedious Sydney traffic), stopping over at Brisbane Water National Park to use the bathroom, have a light snack and I now took over the driving duties.
I had the GPS set to Detours Cafe in Bulahdelah, a location I had never visited before. This was our planned lunch spot as a I had bought tickets and attended the 'Sydney Superhot Chilli and BBQ Festival' (where I took part in the 'Napalm Noodle Challenge' with 16 million scoville pure capsaicin crystals in it).
On the Chilli Festival's social page, they had shared that on their way down from Queensland to Sydney to run the festival they had stopped into the Detours Cafe and got the 'Grim Reaper Pie' with Carolina Reaper Chilli.
Though that had been about 4 months prior, I held out hope that the pie would still be available, though had realistic expectations that it might not be, as 'specialty pies' rarely remain long at bakeries.
As we arrived at Bulahdelah, on Worimi Country, I was surprised at how quaint and nice the small town appear to be. It almost reminded me of a less busy version of the town of Berry (in the Shoalhaven), with a beautiful lone mountain just sitting, overlooking the town (I had the instant desire to go up and walk around and explore the mountain, though knew we didn't have time for that). While looking it up as research for this post I learned it was called 'Bulahdelah Mountain', or 'Alum Mountain'.
We pulled up just outside a local Church and began walking up the main street towards the cafe.
It was a nice sunny day, but it was pleasant and not too hot, so even my Wife (who hates the heat and the sun on most occasions), suggested we sit at an outdoor table to eat.
She ordered calamari and chips and a strawberry milkshake (which her pregnancy was making her crave), and my Reaper pie was not there, but I instead ordered a duck and honey mustard pie as I thought that sounded the most unique and interesting, and a latte for my caffeine hit (necessary for those long hours on the road!).
The duck pie was really good, the flavours not the usual I would gravitate towards, but in saying that I still thought it was a very good pie and both of us struggle to finish as we found the food very filling.
We headed off for a quick walk to the end of the town to stretch our legs and have a very short explore to look over the Myall River.
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| Bulahdelah Big Bass |
"Australian Bass
Percolates Colonorum (Gunther)
Australian Bass are freshwater fish found in coastal streams from Queensland to Victoria. They became an endangered species in the late 1980's. The Bass Bash, a catch and release fishing competition held annually in Bulahdelah since 1991, raises funds to restock the Bass in the Myall River and protect them for future generations to enjoy."
We made our way back to the car, where I went for a quick drive up a street towards the base of the mountain for an explore past a local park, looking for a location that would contain walks that I may or may not do in the future (there will never be enough time/money for me to explore and adventure around the world or even the country as I would like).
We then continued our road trip, with all the sites along the way until we arrived at our stop for the night at Coffs Harbour on Gumbaynggirr Country. Our accommodation for the night was at Sanctuary Resort Motor Inn, where we had just planned to eat for that night at their 'Treehouse Restaurant'.
We checked in, with the lady at the reception asking if we were "also here for the game".
"Game?" I responded with no idea what she was talking about, assuming there was some sports match on locally before explaining why we were there. We transferred our suitcases to our room and went for a walk around the grounds and the nice gardens for an explore as Bush Turkeys roamed freely around the grounds. We wandered down the hill, where we found old building remains, some of which was now overgrown and I wondered what they're original builds had been for, while some locations obviously use to be gazebos. We wandered around the back to the pool area, before making our way back to the hotel room for a rest.
I sat on a comfy sofa, flipping through one of those 'tourist guide' pamphlets at some top things to do, before having a shower and heading over to the 'Treehouse Restaurant.'
As we walked in, the restaurant was packed with what I would dub 'bogan families', while the restaurant there was decorated to be or fancy, the loud and already half-drunk parents loudly spoke over each other to the lady taking the orders, while their kids walked through bouncing basketballs.
My Wife and I made side eyes at each other in despair, before sitting down at a table to look at the menu, with half the things listed on the website menu no longer on the menu.
With the unruly restaurant guests and the good items not on the menu, we started debating whether or not to stay. Ultimately, we decided to walk out, while I kindly told the staff my Wife was 'feeling unwell', which was partially true.
We went back to our accommodation, trying to find a place to eat, as it was a short time in Coffs Harbour, I thought we should make the most of it by trying somewhere new.
However, my Wife had found a GYG (Guzman Y Gomez) Mexican fast-food restaurant nearby and just wanted to go there and get take away. We had a little argument because I felt like we were missing out on experiencing a new location (I was probably just tired from driving and stressed about my blood results), in the end we drove down to GYG, grabbing some sub-par burritos (to be fair, GYG is usually really good but these were pretty flavourless and went cold very fast).
As we drove the car back to the accommodation, we parked in a different spot overlooking a piece of grass surrounded by bushland, just up from the main road. As the headlights shone out over the grass I noticed an animal, standing in the middle.
"Is that a Bilby?" I asked, shocked at the creature. Turned out it was a Bandicoot, an animal I had never seen before, not in the wild or even at a Zoo. I took my phone out to snap a quick photo, but it scuttled off into the bushes before I could do so.
We returned to our room to eat our burritos, as crazy kids ran around outside loudly playing games.
We loaded up the rooms Netflix to find it, along with some other streaming networks were still logged on. We kindly logged out for them, before logging in to ours to watch our own shows (making sure we signed out), once my Wife had fallen asleep, I chucked on an episode of the German time-travel show 'Dark' before logging out of the account as the kids only now began to quiet down, and I too fell asleep.
Day 2 - We woke up early, packing everything back into the car, and headed off towards Coffs Harbours South Breakwall for a morning walk before breakfast. We pulled up in the carpark at the start of the breakwall, looking out across the water at 'Muttonbird Island'.
It seemed to be a very busy location, with locations coming for there for morning walks, some with very cute Dogs. As we began the walk along the breakwall I commented that it reminded me of the breakwall in Port Kembla, which I had gone for walk and explore of one weekend in need of a break and intended to do a short blog on but instead you can read that at the very end of this one!)
We walked slowly and calmly admiring the view and enjoying the fresh sea air, my Wife began to get a little bit of morning sickness, though she couldn't say whether or not it was just because she was just getting hungry now. We reached the end of the breakwall and she said we could go into town to grab breakfast before returning for a walk up onto Muttonbird Island.
We returned along the breakwall even slower than we had walked out, and began driving into town towards 'Miquette' a French cafe as I had mentioned I always seemed to get good coffee's from french cafes, mentioning both the one in Newcastle and in Katoomba. However, I noticed another carpark on my left as we were about to leave mentioning it looked over another beach, so I pulled in for a quick detour, and found the big piece of land behind us from our original carpark was 'South Coff Island', with a path from this carpark heading towards it and splitting off to two directions around the hill.
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| Looking at South Coffs Island |
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| Looking down the coast |
I pointed at the Warrigal Greens (also known as Botany Bay Greens or New Zealand Spinach) growing around on the ground before I said we should go for a quick walk down the left track on the island seeing as 'we were already there'.
We followed the trail, which turned out to be very short and not go there far. It had a wooden bench to sit down at the end of it, and I pointed to the interesting tree growing nearby as I hadn't seen it before, and I thought the fruit growing on it looked interesting. I took some photos to upload to 'iNaturalist' to have it identified for me.
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| Thatch Screwpine 'Pandanus tectorius' |
On reading up on the fruit of the tree I learned it was edible, and to quote our most trusted internet source, Wikipedia:
"The fruit is edible. Some varieties and cultivars contain significant amounts of calcium oxalate, and thus need thorough cooking before being consumed.
It is an important food source in the atolls of Micronesia and Polynesia, with the fruit commonly eaten raw or turned into a dried paste."
Once we returned to where the path had split, I began looking up the trail that headed left. My Wife who was now hungry and irritable mentioned it would only take us back up to where we had parked previously and that she was starting to feel sick from hunger, so we returned to the car and headed into town to 'Miquette' the French cafe.
I ordered my go-to (a latte), and my Wife decided to get a mocha (she's not really a coffee person). I ordered 'L'Océan' a baguette with smoked salmon, goats cheese, avocado and red onion.
My Wife ordered 'Le Magnifique', a baguette with prosciutto, rocket, brie, and fig jam.
Both were delicious and so was the coffee, continuing the trend for French cafes being a reliable source of good coffee and food.
With full bellies and our caffeine hit, we returned to the opposite side of Coffs Harbour, (which was much busier and had very busy traffic making getting a parking space stressful).
We walked along the Coffs Harbour Marina Walkway towards Muttonbird Island, looking over the marina on our right, and over North Wall Beach and over towards Little Muttonbird Island on our left.
The sun was well into the sky, warming us up and I could feel the heat radiating up of the concrete as we walked along. As we reached the island I looked into the clear blue water around the base of the island.
"I could go for a swim." I said, taking a photo.
A few seconds after this, I noticed a group that were coming up from our of the water around the base in wet suits, they had obviously been our diving around the island, and I wondered about the many sea creatures they would have seen around the island.
As we walked a bit further up there was a big sign, marking the start of Muttonbird Island Nature Reserve, with it's indigenous name 'Giidany Miirlarl' written on top. I commented that it was good to know it's indigenous name, as obviously that is the original name of what it was called, but I did wonder what the translation meant.
A short walk up, there were a bunch of signs, giving all sorts of information about the island, and answering my question.
"Giingay
Darruyay
Yilaaming
Hello and welcome to Diidany Miirlarl (moon place)"
"Muttonbird Island and the Moon Man
Story as told by Gumbaynggirr Elder Aunty Gloria Phillips
'The Norther Headland is an island joined to the mainland by a breakwater, and in known as a site for nesting muttonbirds (Moon Island).
Giidany Miirlarl could be visted by some women. Those of the same section as Moon Man's wife, that is, Wirrgaan, were allowed to.
Moon Island was a meeting place for the ancestors who made plans around the camp fire for the next initiation of young lads.
Over indulgence was a matter for the Moon Man who came down from the moon each month to take care of those who had too much. Pnealties were issued when he walked on the beach and took control of the tides - this was used as a weapon for the tribesman who disobeyed the lores.'"
"A sacred site
The local Aboriginal people of the past and today in the Coffs Harbour area belong to the Gumbaynggirr Aboriginal Nation that represents them as a people. The Gumbaynggir People have an ongoing connection with the land and water. For them, heritage and nature are inseperable from one another. The island is significant to the Gumbaynggirr People culturally, and forms part of their spirituality and personal identity.
The island is a sacred site of the Gumbaynggirr People, who call it Giidany Miirlarl (prounounced Ghee-dayn Meeral), which means 'moon special place'.
The special place also includes the reef or islet (now known as Coffs Reef) on the way to Muttonbird Island. It has now been mostly destroyed by the construction of the northern breakwall.
One of the traditional stories tell of the moon, who is the Guardian of the island, keeping birds there for the Gumbaynggirr People to hunt for food. The Guardian does not allow many birds to be hunted, This makes sure that there will be enough for future generations.
It is said that when the full moon returns each month, it renews life to the plants and animals. The moon uses the tides, riptides and floods against those who do not respect the Aboriginal lore."
"Why is it called Muttonbird Island?
The common name of muttonbird refers to the migratory seabirds that live seasonally on the island. They dig burrows in the damp shallow dirt to lay eggs and shelter growing chicks.
The early European settlers, like the local Gumbaynggirr People, hunted and ate them, comparing the dark flesh to the flavour and texture of mutton. Today these birds are known as shearwaters, with the wedge-tailed shearwater nesting on the island."
Obviously, there was a lot of signs and information here, including ones detailing changed through time:
~6,00 years ago Sea levels stabalise, current coastline characteristics appear.
1847 Sydney-based shipbuilder John Korff seek refuge during a storm on Muttonbird Island. Area subsequently called Korff's Harbour.
1861 Surveyors change name to Coffs Harbour.
1892 Timber jetty completed to service the economy of the town.
1924 Island joined to mainland via northern breakwall.
1930s Shearwater population impacted by egg collection for food during Great Depression.
1971 Muttonbird Island becomes a nature reserve for the study and conservation of seabirds.
2012 Giidany Mirlarl Education Space Opens
2022 Raised boardwalk over top of the island opens, helping to protect shearwater burrows.
2024 New Giidanyba (Moon Man) artwork and updated signage installed on the reserve.
There was also a lot more information talking about the numerous birds that call the island home, as well as other wildlife and flora, and a whole board dedicated to the life of a Shearwater, however I will share only two more that focus on the indigenous heritage of the island.
"Some associations of Giidany
Time: Giidany means 'month' as well as 'moon'
Women's business (the monthly cycle):
Uncle Harry Buchanan indicated there was a link between women's periods and the moon's cycle at this place.
Ecology: The preservation of the muttonbirds over thousands of years depended on strict rules and taboos. Not only was easy accessibility limited by the (moon controlled) tides, but section restrictions and ceremonial restrictions ensured the survival of the muttonbird.
Fun: The moon is a figure of fun in many Aboriginal stories. The Gumbaynggirr depiction is no exception. Fat Moon Man spears himself in the backside, the the runs and wastes away.
Life, death and regeneration: At the same time, the moon is a symbol of death and resurrection. He gives regenerative powers to the plant people in the moon story."
"The story of the Moon Man
(as told by Phillip Shannon, a Nymboidan Elder to linguist Gerhardt Laves in 1929)
'The Mon Man thew his spear. The spear took a boomerang-like path; missing all along the enemy line and then veering back towards him, the spear getting him in the tail bone. This caused the Moon Man to suffer from 'the runs' (diarrhoea).
The place where this occurred was at the Nymboida fighting ground, which became Guuna Mirrlarl, the faeces special place.
There is mud there all the time.
The Moon Man asked his realatives to carry him to Giidany Miirlarl. Not many were willing to help the Moon Man, except for the plant people, including:
Gamiiny (bracken fern)
Jambarrga (tree fern)
Juluga (maiden hair fern - it now had a dark stem because of the faeces)
Bugawurr (common grass)
Windaan (bladey grass)
Jugi Jugi (kangaroo grass)
Danaambi (birds nest fern)
Murruny-murrunyga (large leafed spotted gum - grows back easily if cut down)
To recognise and thank the plant people who carried Moon Man to Giidany Miirlarl, he gave them everlasting life or rebirth. He said "When you are killed, you will rise again".
This is realised when the plants recover after fires.
When Moon Man is sick he is small, but he recovers to become the full Moon.'"
We began the walk up Muttonbird Island, which was steep from the get go, but not steep enough to keep anyone with moderate fitness from easily walking up. However, my Wife, pregnant, instantly struggled, almost having bad vertigo, unsure she would even be able to make it to the top.
About a third of the way up, there was a little wooden bench that I made her sit at, letting her breath and recover while she lamented that she would be able to do 'nothing she wanted to do' on our trip and how terrible an experience being pregnant was.
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| Panorama photo, so slightly warped |
After a rest we continued up, and an elderly lady who was walking in front of us turned around and said that she 'couldn't make it up.'
"Fair enough." I responded to her, as my Wife and I slowly made it up to the Summit Viewing Platform.
Along the way, and also at the top, we noticed the little nesting holes dug all around the area.
It immediately reminded me of the Puffin nesting location at Borgarfjörður eystri in Iceland.
At the summit lookout as a sign giving information on four different 'Predator of the air', the White-bellied sea-eagle, the Brahminy kite, and Black-shouldered kite and the Eastern osprey. Which was topic as high overhead one of them was hovering, looking for prey. It was far too high in the sky to identify, and taking a photo with my phone only resulted in a darkened silhouette, that still didn't allow me to identify it compared to the imaged on the bird of prey information sign.
At the summit lookout as a sign giving information on four different 'Predator of the air', the White-bellied sea-eagle, the Brahminy kite, and Black-shouldered kite and the Eastern osprey. Which was topic as high overhead one of them was hovering, looking for prey. It was far too high in the sky to identify, and taking a photo with my phone only resulted in a darkened silhouette, that still didn't allow me to identify it compared to the imaged on the bird of prey information sign.
I tried to take a few panorama photo's from atop the island, but the images were all warped, skewing how the landscape looked in actuality. So I took individual photos, one facing toward Little Muttonbird Island, the next, toward the South Breakwall and South Coff Island, and the third towards the Marina and the rest of Coffs Harbour.
The boardwalk on top continued over to the other side of the island, and we followed it over to the other side, while watching a sail boat sail in past the south breakwall.
The boardwalk began heading down on the opposite side, and we didn't know how far down it went. My Wife, struggling in the heat made her way back to the summit lookout, while I made my way down to the bottom, where there was a sign about whales and dolphins, which I assumed the spot was used as a lookout. Off to the side was an area not sealed with a boardwalk, with a family sitting on the edge, taking in the scenery as the sailboat continued into the harbour.
I made my way back up the hill, and began along the boardwalk back to my Wife, as I passed the older lady who had turned back before.
"You ended up making it." I said to her, and she nodded in agreement seemingly very pleased.
As I reached my Wife and we went to make our way back down off of Muttonbird Island, I noticed a bird amongst the grass, and tried to video it, but was unable to get great footage, snapping a quick and alright photo of it.
"You ended up making it." I said to her, and she nodded in agreement seemingly very pleased.
As I reached my Wife and we went to make our way back down off of Muttonbird Island, I noticed a bird amongst the grass, and tried to video it, but was unable to get great footage, snapping a quick and alright photo of it.
As we reached the bottom of the island, back where all the signs were, there was another one of these birds, which I took a photo of.
As I was thinking out loud about what the bird was, my Wife pointed to the nearby sign that read "Mett the locals' and right there on the sign was the bird.
It was a Buff-banded rail 'Hypotaenida philippensis'.
"Although usually a rather shy and nervous ground bird, the rails on Muttonbird Island often forage for insects close to the track. Rails are about the side of a small, somewhat skinny chook with beautifully coloured plumage."
It was a Buff-banded rail 'Hypotaenida philippensis'.
"Although usually a rather shy and nervous ground bird, the rails on Muttonbird Island often forage for insects close to the track. Rails are about the side of a small, somewhat skinny chook with beautifully coloured plumage."
We made our way back through the harbour, seeing what looked like a Ray at one point leap from the water.
Once we returned to the car, we drove back in to the French café 'Miquette', where I grabbed a take away latte for the road, before heading off for a touristy photo at the 'Big Banana'.
Note: I have been interested in the weird and stupid Australian 'Big Things' since Primary School, where one of my teachers went on about all the different ones around the country. The idea captured my imagination then and always stayed with me, even though I know they're dumb and completely touristy they bring me joy!
There was a Banana Plantation tour at the Big Banana, a lolly shop, a café and some 4D ride simulators, similar to what we had done on our Honeymoon to Bali. I asked my Wife is she was interested in any, she wasn't! (Although I wouldn't have minded having a go on either the Dinosaur or Wild West themed ones).
We set of North once more, as we had to make it to Brisbane by the end of the day.
Along the way of driving a received a call from an unknown number, and at some point we pulled off to a rest stop on the side of the road to go to the bathroom. I listened to the voicemail and it was the Haematology Clinic at Wollongong Hospital crying to book me in for an appointment with my original cancer doctor. I explained that I was 'in Queensland', during the date they wanted me to come in and just asked for reassurance that my results were ok, however they could not tell me that, only giving me more anxiety for our trip. With me feeling stressed as all fuck, I switched driving allowing my Wife to drive while I tried not to go into full panic mode.
We continued driving until we reached Ballina, where we had a short stop around lunch time for me to grab a photo with 'The Big Prawn.' Which was even more humourously across the road from a Bunnings carpark.
We set of North once more, as we had to make it to Brisbane by the end of the day.
Along the way of driving a received a call from an unknown number, and at some point we pulled off to a rest stop on the side of the road to go to the bathroom. I listened to the voicemail and it was the Haematology Clinic at Wollongong Hospital crying to book me in for an appointment with my original cancer doctor. I explained that I was 'in Queensland', during the date they wanted me to come in and just asked for reassurance that my results were ok, however they could not tell me that, only giving me more anxiety for our trip. With me feeling stressed as all fuck, I switched driving allowing my Wife to drive while I tried not to go into full panic mode.
We continued driving until we reached Ballina, where we had a short stop around lunch time for me to grab a photo with 'The Big Prawn.' Which was even more humourously across the road from a Bunnings carpark.
We set off in to Ballina, to grab some lunch, finding a local bakery, we grabbed some food and headed over towards the beach to eat. We pulled up along Kingsford Smith Drive, walking down to a picnic table nearby a body of water, where we sat to eat (though I struggled, feeling a loss of appetite from my anxiety).
The wind began to pick up where we were. We finished our food and went to go through a quick walk through the bush along this water. As we continued we found a collection of tents, which we assumed had people living in them along the water, not sure if these people would be friendly (as I have encountered unfriendly people like this in the past), we headed back, crossing over the road to Missingham Beach.
We walked along the walkway until we reached a public toilet at the Ballina skatepark, before heading back to the car to again, continue north (with my Wife still driving in case Haematology called back).
Along the way, they did, but again offered me no information only changing the date of the appointment to Thursday the 2nd of October, when I would be back from holiday.
My Wife tried to console me, saying if it was 'anything bad' they would have made it more urgent.
Along the way, they did, but again offered me no information only changing the date of the appointment to Thursday the 2nd of October, when I would be back from holiday.
My Wife tried to console me, saying if it was 'anything bad' they would have made it more urgent.
I tried to stay positive and keep my adventurous spirit from falling into depression and despair, so I suggested we stop in at 'Tweed Heads' before continuing to Brisbane as I had never been there. Getting into Tweed Heads ended up being a cluster, as Google Maps was doing that thing were it would tell you to turn early at the wrong turn, or not tell you to turn when you needed to and was being wholly unreliable, eventually we made it to 'Kirra Hill Lookout' in Tweed Heads, looking out over the entire coastline of 'The Gold Coast' with a very faint and distant Brisbane City in a haze in the far distance.
My Wife made a comment about it not really being 'worthwhile' and in disappointment, with no more detour suggestions we drove through the tedious Gold Coast traffic, until we arrived in Brisbane at our accommodation 'Hotel Chino', which we had booked in particular because it had secure parking.
As we entered we were greeted by the very nice and friendly owners (or whoever was working but I assumed it was the owners), who offered us a welcome beverage, such as a beer, wine or soft drink.
My pregnant Wife obviously took the soft drink, while me, now stressed about my health did so too, as we parked in the secure parking, making our way up to our room with our stuff, we laid down on the bed to rest after our 4 hour long drive
My pregnant Wife obviously took the soft drink, while me, now stressed about my health did so too, as we parked in the secure parking, making our way up to our room with our stuff, we laid down on the bed to rest after our 4 hour long drive
I cracked open my can of Solo, and we loaded up Netflix, finding the last people in this room as well had not properly signed out of their account.
"Don't people know how to log out?" I said bemused, whilst also browsing nearby restaurants to work out what we would have for dinner, before both showering.
We ultimately decided to just grab Thai from downstairs, as the Thai restaurant (Sampao Thai Cuisine) was linked to the hotel.
"Don't people know how to log out?" I said bemused, whilst also browsing nearby restaurants to work out what we would have for dinner, before both showering.
We ultimately decided to just grab Thai from downstairs, as the Thai restaurant (Sampao Thai Cuisine) was linked to the hotel.
I ended up deciding to get the 'Soft Shell Crab Ponggaree' which was soft shell crab stir fried with slightly chilli paste, onion, shallot and egg top with chilli oil.
When you ordered online, the meals also gave you 4 different levels of spice. Mild, medium, hot and thai hot (which is what I chose). My Wife decided to get her meal 'hot'.
"Are you sure?" I asked her, knowing that with her pregnancy she was struggling with spice.
"Yeah it should be ok." She responded, noting that there was a 'thai hot' on there, which would probably be the hotter dish.
The dishes came and both had a great deal of spice (to my joy), and I really enjoyed my meal and ended up having to finish my Wife's as it was too hot for her.
When you ordered online, the meals also gave you 4 different levels of spice. Mild, medium, hot and thai hot (which is what I chose). My Wife decided to get her meal 'hot'.
"Are you sure?" I asked her, knowing that with her pregnancy she was struggling with spice.
"Yeah it should be ok." She responded, noting that there was a 'thai hot' on there, which would probably be the hotter dish.
The dishes came and both had a great deal of spice (to my joy), and I really enjoyed my meal and ended up having to finish my Wife's as it was too hot for her.
We ate them on the balcony, enjoying the cool breeze on our sweating skin before heading inside to watch some Netflix, as the apartment that was linked in with ours began blasting music. (You had to walk through a door into a shared hallway with two doors leading to two different apartments, so the music blasted right into our room).
I got increasingly angry as the night went on, and ended up calling the after hours hotel number to complain, and finally the noise died down enough for us to get some sleep.
Day 3 - We awoke to a lazy morning, attempting to work out what to do to fill in our day. I didn't want to spend the entire day sitting around inside waiting for Nathan and Mei's reception, but I could tell my Wife was in no mood to do anything which was frustrating me as not only had we travelled all this way to a place that we hadn't really explored (even though she insisted we had 'seen Brisbane'). I was trying not to get frustrated, as the reason medical stresses and caused me great agitation and a forlorn sense of impending doom and stress. I felt like I wanted to run out the door and experience the world!
But first, breakfast. So the Google Map trawl of nearby cafes began. My Wife felt like a matcha latte and so all searches needed to include that on the menu, I found a few options but my Wife seemed set on the one that she had found, 'Buenos Dias Con Café', a 15 minute walk away.
We walked through the city, reaching the café where I found nothing but sweet pastry's for breakfast, I skipped on them, not feeling like anything so rich for breakfast. I asked my Wife is she wanted anything but she passed up on eating as well despite the fact that the café was her idea.
We sat outside around the corner, and soon my coffee and her matcha was brought out, while the dark, brooding and harrowing thoughts of death and cancer recurrence swelled in my brain.
"Why are you talking to me." My Wife whinged at me.
"What do you want me to say?" I said, telling her she could start a conversation with me.
We sat in silence, drinking while I listened to a very loud and very pretentious older man talk about job applications and job interviews to a younger Asian girl. The way he spoke came across as so conceited and vain. It reminded me of those self-help conmen you sometimes see in film and tv.
Soon we finished our drinks with barely a word said to each other as I felt a bowel movement from both the coffee and my spicy thai from the night before and insisted I needed to 'find a bathroom'.
"Aren't we going to get breakfast?" My Wife bemoaned.
"You could have just grabbed something then!" I snapped, walking away in a hurry, googling local public toilets.
But first, breakfast. So the Google Map trawl of nearby cafes began. My Wife felt like a matcha latte and so all searches needed to include that on the menu, I found a few options but my Wife seemed set on the one that she had found, 'Buenos Dias Con Café', a 15 minute walk away.
We walked through the city, reaching the café where I found nothing but sweet pastry's for breakfast, I skipped on them, not feeling like anything so rich for breakfast. I asked my Wife is she wanted anything but she passed up on eating as well despite the fact that the café was her idea.
We sat outside around the corner, and soon my coffee and her matcha was brought out, while the dark, brooding and harrowing thoughts of death and cancer recurrence swelled in my brain.
"Why are you talking to me." My Wife whinged at me.
"What do you want me to say?" I said, telling her she could start a conversation with me.
We sat in silence, drinking while I listened to a very loud and very pretentious older man talk about job applications and job interviews to a younger Asian girl. The way he spoke came across as so conceited and vain. It reminded me of those self-help conmen you sometimes see in film and tv.
Soon we finished our drinks with barely a word said to each other as I felt a bowel movement from both the coffee and my spicy thai from the night before and insisted I needed to 'find a bathroom'.
"Aren't we going to get breakfast?" My Wife bemoaned.
"You could have just grabbed something then!" I snapped, walking away in a hurry, googling local public toilets.
It ended up faster to walk back to the hotel, and I walked at a quick pace while my Wife dawdled along.
"Do I just need to go back without you?" I regretfully snapped at her.
Her eyes began to swell, and she said she was going as fast as she could.
I kept a short while ahead, always waiting for her to catch up as we made our way back into the hotel through the doorway into the shared hallways towards our room when I could once again here the neighbours music playing.
I managed to 'relieve' myself, apologising for my asshole behaviour and suggested we just go to a café that was literally just up and across the street called 'Coffee Nature'.
"Do I just need to go back without you?" I regretfully snapped at her.
Her eyes began to swell, and she said she was going as fast as she could.
I kept a short while ahead, always waiting for her to catch up as we made our way back into the hotel through the doorway into the shared hallways towards our room when I could once again here the neighbours music playing.
I managed to 'relieve' myself, apologising for my asshole behaviour and suggested we just go to a café that was literally just up and across the street called 'Coffee Nature'.
My Wife got a plain ham, cheese and tomato toastie, while I got the 'Yuzu-Miso Drops On Salmon' which was smoked salmon on sourdough bread with avocado, spinach and a poached egg, dressed with yuzu-miso sauce, pepitas and goji berries as I thought it sounded interesting (it also tasted really good).
I also noticed a yuzu marmalade honey sort of drink, which my Wife got too, and I ended up finishing for her which was very refreshing and tasty.
I also noticed a yuzu marmalade honey sort of drink, which my Wife got too, and I ended up finishing for her which was very refreshing and tasty.
We finished up, heading back to our accommodation.
"So, what do you want to do?" I asked eagerly, not wanting to waste my day, and with the adrenaline of stress pumping through my veins wanting me to remain busy and distracted.
"Whatever you want." My Wife replied, with obviously no motivation to do anything.
We sat around for a short while, as I looked up Escape Rooms nearby on Google Maps. I mentioned a few too her, but she didn't seem very interested in going and doing any.
Instead, my mind reminded me of the last time we were in Brisbane, when Nathan had taken us on a drive out to Mount Coot-tha for an explore. I started looking for very short and flat walks around Mount Coot-tha. I ended up finding two that I suggested we do.
The Hovea Track loop, which was 0.6km and the Hoop Pine Track at 925m.
My Wife begrudgingly relented to the walks, and we set off in the car towards Mount Coot-tha, where we parked at the J C Slaughter Falls Picnic Area.
"So, what do you want to do?" I asked eagerly, not wanting to waste my day, and with the adrenaline of stress pumping through my veins wanting me to remain busy and distracted.
"Whatever you want." My Wife replied, with obviously no motivation to do anything.
We sat around for a short while, as I looked up Escape Rooms nearby on Google Maps. I mentioned a few too her, but she didn't seem very interested in going and doing any.
Instead, my mind reminded me of the last time we were in Brisbane, when Nathan had taken us on a drive out to Mount Coot-tha for an explore. I started looking for very short and flat walks around Mount Coot-tha. I ended up finding two that I suggested we do.
The Hovea Track loop, which was 0.6km and the Hoop Pine Track at 925m.
My Wife begrudgingly relented to the walks, and we set off in the car towards Mount Coot-tha, where we parked at the J C Slaughter Falls Picnic Area.
We searched the carpark, for the walk. Until I went to a large mapping sign next to a nearby toilet block while my Wife went to the toilet. I saw that both walks started much further up, and I didn't want to tire my Wife our just walking through a carpark, so we returned to the car, and I drove us much further up to the end of the carpark, where there we a bunch of barbeque areas where the walks began.
At the end of the walkway the Hovea Track began up a set of stairs with a sign marking that it only went for 315m, whilst the Hoop Pine Track headed downhill on our left.
"Why don't we start with the Hovea track." I suggested, seeing that it instantly went up a set of stairs.
I saw the look on my Wife's face in regard to the stairs.
"It's not meant to be very steep." I insisted, "I'm pretty sure when I looked it up it was only 4m of elevation." I told her. "It's probably all just at the start."
I saw the look on my Wife's face in regard to the stairs.
"It's not meant to be very steep." I insisted, "I'm pretty sure when I looked it up it was only 4m of elevation." I told her. "It's probably all just at the start."
We began the walk up the stairs, and my Wife was already struggling. I thought that even though it was mid-September the weather was not as crazy hot as it could be, especially for Queensland, as I hoped the rest of the walk would be ok for her.
Instantly the stairs continued, and I could see the grief on my Wife's face and felt annoyed at the internet for deceiving me.
When we finally made it up all the steps, the trail did finally flatten out as we followed it along.
The flatness of the trail was incredibly short lived, as the trail soon crossed a small boardwalk and down a set of stairs.
My Wife slowly waddled down the stairs, and I stopped to take a photo of a curious looking bug that I noticed on a leaf while my Wife looked completely unenthralled.
We came to another section of steps, and at this point my Wife gave up not wanting to do anymore. I apologised that the walk had more inclines and declines than I had been led to believe, and that I would continue ahead quickly, as the walk was very short and I could meet her back at the start and see if the other walk was flatter.
I continued along, where I saw another trail down below on my left, where I noticed walk looked like a fenced off tunned and snapped a zoomed in photo.
The trail continued on a short while before heading down another set of stairs that led down to what looked like a dried-up stream, where it abruptly ended.
I walked around to the left where there was a large rock sticking out of the ground and realised the track had linked on to another track. I followed it to my right, leading the direction I had already been heading in, when I found a sign letting me know I was on the 'Summit Track' leading to the Summit Lookout, which was in 1665m.
Directly to the right of this sign, on the opposite side of the track was the Hoop Pine Track, the other walk were meant to do.
I knew now that the other trail at the start would lead here, but as I would need to follow that trail to return to this section, I decided to return to my Wife via the Hovea Track, snapped a photo of some crimson Bottlebrush dangling above the dried creek as well as taking a photo of an interesting light purple flower I noticed on my way back.
I quickly walked the trail, finding my Wife sitting at the steps at the beginning of the walk.
"You were right at the end before you turned back." I informed her, but she didn't seem to care. I told her the other walk was flat, and we made our way down the stairs across a stream and back up a set of stairs to the other side, onto the trail I had seen from up on the Hovea Track.
"You were right at the end before you turned back." I informed her, but she didn't seem to care. I told her the other walk was flat, and we made our way down the stairs across a stream and back up a set of stairs to the other side, onto the trail I had seen from up on the Hovea Track.
As we reached the top of these stairs a sign on the dirt track pointing right said that the Hoop Pine Track started in 275m.
"We won't have time to do it now." My Wife said, saying we had to be back to get ready for Nathan and Mei's wedding reception.
"What, that's hours away!" I said.
She mentioned the distance until the walk even begun, saying that we wouldn't be able to do it 'at her pace'. Instead, she took the keys to return to wait in the car, and I continued on ahead, faster on my own.
"We won't have time to do it now." My Wife said, saying we had to be back to get ready for Nathan and Mei's wedding reception.
"What, that's hours away!" I said.
She mentioned the distance until the walk even begun, saying that we wouldn't be able to do it 'at her pace'. Instead, she took the keys to return to wait in the car, and I continued on ahead, faster on my own.
I soon arrived at what I thought was a 'tunnel' only to find it was actually really shallow and more like a bunker, though I wondered what it was for.
I walked up the small slope, which opened up into a grass area, with the large stones near the dried stream, which now had kids climbing on them.
 |
| Nothing suss, just photographing random children |
I made my way up the hill, turning right inwards towards, starting the Hoop Pine Track and wondering if I would come across JC Slaughter Falls.
A short way in the trail split, with no signage, I stuck to the righthand track.
Soon I came to yet another fork, this time however the track on the right only led to a view of a mostly dried up creek, with a viewing platform at the top, so I returned to take the left trail.
I walked up the track towards the viewing platform, walking down a small section of stairs onto the viewing platform, looking at the view when I noticed what looked like Aboriginal artwork underneath the rocks I had been standing on in the picture above.
I walked down around the outside of the platform, down over the rocks until I was right in front of the art for a better view of it.
While later trying to find information about this art I learned the following:
"It was created in 1993 by Indigenous artists Laurie Nilsen, Marshall Bell, Laurie Graham, and Mark Garlett. This artwork was commissioned to celebrate the International Year of the World's Indigenous People. The trail featuring these artworks was originally named the Aboriginal Art Trail but has since been decommissioned and renamed the Hoop Pine Track."
"It was created in 1993 by Indigenous artists Laurie Nilsen, Marshall Bell, Laurie Graham, and Mark Garlett. This artwork was commissioned to celebrate the International Year of the World's Indigenous People. The trail featuring these artworks was originally named the Aboriginal Art Trail but has since been decommissioned and renamed the Hoop Pine Track."
I admired it as little droplets of rain began to fall. 'I better continue.' I thought, making my way back to the viewing platform, which I now noticed had a used condom laying sadly underneath it where no doubt some teens were getting up to no good. I shook my head in amusement, continuing along the dirt path with hurried steps, aware of my poor Wife sitting back at the car.
Soon I came to another split in the trail, again no signage. 'This shits me.' I thought, before taking the left track with the thought that is may head 'back' towards the summit track.
Soon the track split again, this time I could continue on my path, or veer off right and head uphill, so instead I continued straight ahead on the path I was on as the rain began to drip more frequently.
I followed the track through the bush until it began to gradually begin downhill, where I came to a built walkway, bending around left, back in the direction of the car. 'This must be the right way'. I thought, picking up speed.
I jogged along a bit, finding myself back on the summit track, and began my walk back to the car, while a lady in active wear stared at me. As I got closer I realised her gym-junkie looking boyfriend was standing off to the side, taking a leak.
'Could have walked in a bit further.' I thought, as soon as he was finished they linked arms, smiling sheepishly as they walked away, finding it amusing I had spotted him.
'Could have walked in a bit further.' I thought, as soon as he was finished they linked arms, smiling sheepishly as they walked away, finding it amusing I had spotted him.
I soon reached the large rocks the young boys had been climbing, and had a thought, I had NSW Rocks in my backpack still! I often find this and have mentioned in blog post prior that I like to redistribute them on my walks. I climbed up to the top of the rocks, placing the rock from my bag up there.
The teasing rain had stopped now, as I continued on back past the 'tunnel' I decided to stick my phone through the fence, to actually photograph how it looked inside, realising that darkness obscured it in my previous pictures.
I passed a little barbecue area on my left, past some stacked stone design, and back to the car.
We still had a decent amount of time before the wedding reception (as I had insisted there would be), but mentioned I was feeling tired and wouldn't mind a coffee. We decided to drive to the summit, as there is a café on the top that we had visited last time with Nathan.
On the drive there we passed a Network Ten transmission site, "I should go in and tell them to cast me on Survivor!" I joked, as we then continued to also pass one for Channel 7 and 9.
As we rocked up at the top it was absolutely packed, and we were unable to get a parking spot. We decided to just head back and I could grab one from somewhere else. As we were driving back down my Wife realised we had not got cash out (as we were to leave some cash in the wishing well for Nathan and Mei), so we Google Mapped to the Gabba Central Shopping Area, where we also grabbed some lunch (I grabbed a Chilli Pie from the Gabba Bakery), and we grabbed a drink from Coles, after getting some cash out, making our way back to Hotel Chino, into our dank little shared room hallway which now stank of marijuana, and into our room to get ready for Nathan and Mei's.
We found ourselves ready with hours to go, and so didn't want to get dressed into our suits/dress until closer, so laid around in bed (still able to hear the music from that weird as fuck other room), until closer to the arrival where we got dressed, booking a lift with a thing that was like Uber, but not Uber, called 'DiDi' and set off towards '1889 Enoteca' where the reception was to be held.
We found ourselves ready with hours to go, and so didn't want to get dressed into our suits/dress until closer, so laid around in bed (still able to hear the music from that weird as fuck other room), until closer to the arrival where we got dressed, booking a lift with a thing that was like Uber, but not Uber, called 'DiDi' and set off towards '1889 Enoteca' where the reception was to be held.
We arrived out the front a few minutes before the reception start time with a long line of people also waiting, out the front, most of whom I didn't recognise. I noticed Nathan's brother (as they looked very alike), and I thought I recognised another as maybe one of his cousins.
"I think I met that guy before." I said to my Wife. Unsure of myself. "Maybe at one of Nathan's birthdays or something..." I said, trying to think that far back in time.
"I think I met that guy before." I said to my Wife. Unsure of myself. "Maybe at one of Nathan's birthdays or something..." I said, trying to think that far back in time.
Eventually they opened the doors, and the fancily dressed party of people made their way into the building, where we were usher through and down a set of stairs into a private cellar., we walked around finding out names on the table and we were shocked to find we were placed directly across the table from Nathan and Mei, a spot I thought would be reserved more closer family members.
"Maybe he felt bad for us cause we won't know anyone?" I said, thinking that was a nice thing to do.
"Maybe he felt bad for us cause we won't know anyone?" I said, thinking that was a nice thing to do.
Nathan's brother greeted me, and we shook hands and soon began a conversation with his parents, who had also driven up from the Illawarra. We chatted with them, and soon the room began to hush as word spread that Nathan and Mei would be making their entry.
A girl stood up, announcing she was Mei's friend and would be the MC for the event.
A girl stood up, announcing she was Mei's friend and would be the MC for the event.
She asked as to grab our napkins and wave them in the air all as one while the two of them entered.
Soon they made their grand entrance as we waved and cheered for them, and Nathan immediately made eye contact after spotting me, raising his eyebrows to communicate, which was basically an acknowledgement and a thank you for coming and he was excited for his moment.
Together him and Mei had a champagne tower, which they poured into as if overflew, spilling into the lower glasses, filling the tower up.
Soon staff began distributing the champagne glasses around the table, one in front of me, and my pregnant Wife who would not be drinking.
Nathan and Mei made their way too us and we greeted them, asking about the ceremony and how the day went (as they had a smaller quiet ceremony with only close family). He began to tell us, but they made their way around the table greeting all their friends and family.
Together him and Mei had a champagne tower, which they poured into as if overflew, spilling into the lower glasses, filling the tower up.
Soon staff began distributing the champagne glasses around the table, one in front of me, and my pregnant Wife who would not be drinking.
Nathan and Mei made their way too us and we greeted them, asking about the ceremony and how the day went (as they had a smaller quiet ceremony with only close family). He began to tell us, but they made their way around the table greeting all their friends and family.
I drank mine and my Wife's champagne, and she reminded me not to mention anything about my blood to Nathan and to just let him enjoy his day. I nodded in agreement, feeling the stress of that and the social anxiety of interacting with people that I didn't know, and feeling uncomfortable and fat in my suit (I only owned one suit, so I was re-wearing the one from my own wedding 8 years prior).
Soon Nathan and Mei were able to come and sit down with us and we were able to speak, every guest had a personalised wedding card (which had told us where to sit), which a little detail about ourselves.
"Did you see and read them?" Nathan asked, unable to remember what he had written for the two of us, so we read them back to him.
"card says here"
"Did you see and read them?" Nathan asked, unable to remember what he had written for the two of us, so we read them back to him.
"card says here"
We also each had personalised coffee the two had roasted, including a mix of Australian and Indonesian coffee beans, symbolic of their own union.
As the night continued, we ate and drank, as people came around consistently topping up my Wine glass with red wine. 'I probably shouldn't be drinking so much.' I thought, but out of anxiety and determination to just enjoy the night (and losing track of how much I had drunk).
I asked if it was ok if I took a photo of the two of them (as I know at some wedding people only want the wedding photographer photos), however they were ok with me taking one of them.
 |
| Mei and Nathan |
We stayed on late into the night until the venue was going to close, as various people gave speeches, including the two of them and Nathan's Father. I also spoke with some of the people Nathan had worked with Scuba Diving when he had worked on Morton Island as they tried to convince me to quit my job to do 'something fun' and become a scuba instructor.
"That wouldn't work, I'm afraid of Sharks." I told them.
As it got later, my Wife grew really fatigued, but we stayed until closing as Nathan, Mei and a few of their younger friends decided to party on at another location. We said our goodbye, saying we hoped to see them if they came down for Christmas, as another DiDi driver picked us up and returned us to Hotel Chino.
"That wouldn't work, I'm afraid of Sharks." I told them.
As it got later, my Wife grew really fatigued, but we stayed until closing as Nathan, Mei and a few of their younger friends decided to party on at another location. We said our goodbye, saying we hoped to see them if they came down for Christmas, as another DiDi driver picked us up and returned us to Hotel Chino.
As we began to wind down and get changed to go to bed, I noticed that my phone was missing. I searched everywhere for it and then my Wife checked with the DiDi driver, who found it in the backseat and agreed to return it.
I headed downstairs out in the dark to wait for him to arrive, taking $10 cash to offer as a thank you. While I stood under a tree outside the hotel, I noticed a possum sitting on a tree branch above me, staring at me. I instinctively went to take a photo but realised I had no phone. Instead, I just stood watching him in the dark as he just stared directly back at me.
Soon the driver arrived, and I handed him the money as a thank you, drunkenly returning to my room with a last look up in the branch, but the possum had now disappeared. I made it back to my room and laid down, head spinning, to get some sleep.
Day 4 - I awoke the following morning, feeling very rough. Rough like anyone who has drank too much would know. Every little movement felt like death, and I dried to be still. I slowly made my way to the toilet, where all the red wine made itself through me, for (here's too much info), a brightly coloured poo.
Feeling so shockingly unwell Wife gave me one of her morning sickness pills 'Ondansetron', an anti nausea medication I was very familiar with, using it all the way through my cancer treatment. I then cleaned my teeth and tried to slowly garner the energy to get up to go out for breakfast, where we had decided just to go to the 'Coffee Nature' café up the road. I slowly walked up the street, head spinning, desperately hoping I wouldn't began a random bout of vomiting in the street.
As we sat down to eat our roles were reversed, I now had the plain ham, cheese and tomato toastie, while my Wife got to enjoy the 'Yuzu-Miso Drops On Salmon'. I sat, slowly nibbling on my sandwich, trying to get something in my belly to soak up the yuck and and nourish my body.
All around other people came and went as I ate at a snails pace, also gently sipping on my coffee.
At one point a lady came in, ordering an oat latte, a few minutes later she was back, making sure they had actually given her oat milk as it 'tasted funny', they looked and reassured her it was. Once more she left, only to return a few minutes later once more, complaining about it. She was demanding to know what oat milk it was "Is it barista?" she interrogated them, as they had told her different brands can have different tastes. They told her it was 'unsweetened' showing the bottle.
She then wanted to know about the other 'milk alternatives' the café had, such as almond, but all the bottles were unadulterated unsweetened. "Don't worry about it." The woman said, placing the coffee cup down at the counter and leaving.
"She's probably use to getting some sweetened variety of it." I said to my Wife. As we found the ladies behaviour a bit rude and over the top.
"If you need a particular brand to enjoy your coffee maybe check before ordering." I mumbled, before telling my Wife I couldn't eat the rest of my sandwich, but I was feeling 'slightly better'.
All around other people came and went as I ate at a snails pace, also gently sipping on my coffee.
At one point a lady came in, ordering an oat latte, a few minutes later she was back, making sure they had actually given her oat milk as it 'tasted funny', they looked and reassured her it was. Once more she left, only to return a few minutes later once more, complaining about it. She was demanding to know what oat milk it was "Is it barista?" she interrogated them, as they had told her different brands can have different tastes. They told her it was 'unsweetened' showing the bottle.
She then wanted to know about the other 'milk alternatives' the café had, such as almond, but all the bottles were unadulterated unsweetened. "Don't worry about it." The woman said, placing the coffee cup down at the counter and leaving.
"She's probably use to getting some sweetened variety of it." I said to my Wife. As we found the ladies behaviour a bit rude and over the top.
"If you need a particular brand to enjoy your coffee maybe check before ordering." I mumbled, before telling my Wife I couldn't eat the rest of my sandwich, but I was feeling 'slightly better'.
We left the café, to pack and leave our room, happy to get away from our weird music playing neighbour. I asked my Wife if she would be ok to drive, and we set off further north, towards the Sunshine Coast.
Again I tried to take in the scenery along the way, at one point stopping in at a service station where I got myself a vitamin electrolyte drink and my Wife a can of watermelon juice. We were heading towards The Ginger Factory, in Yandina. As it was something my Wife was excited to do.
We arrived in the boiling heat, pulling up along the road where I noticed a sign across the road outside a building saying it was a Macadamia Factory that did 'free tastings'. We agreed to go there after as we made our way across a small set of train tracks to enter into the Ginger Factory.
Again I tried to take in the scenery along the way, at one point stopping in at a service station where I got myself a vitamin electrolyte drink and my Wife a can of watermelon juice. We were heading towards The Ginger Factory, in Yandina. As it was something my Wife was excited to do.
We arrived in the boiling heat, pulling up along the road where I noticed a sign across the road outside a building saying it was a Macadamia Factory that did 'free tastings'. We agreed to go there after as we made our way across a small set of train tracks to enter into the Ginger Factory.
My Wife wanted to do the Ginger Factory tour, so we looked at times available, booking that in. We grabbed a non alcoholic Ginger and Lemon Time Bitters drink on tap, as well as a ginger scone with ginger marmalade. We ate the refreshing ginger, before beginning a little stroll through the area, underneath the 'rainbrella' garden and over towards the rainforest garden and 'Zog' trail.
My Wife didn't want to go and explore it all, as our Ginger Factory tour was soon, so we headed back to the main entry past a heap of water dragons and waited for the factory tour to begin.
The lady came and collected the group that had gathered, taking us into a little room (that reminded me of a Church) where we watched a video talking about the history of Buderim Ginger in Australia, showing old photos and explaining the history (one of particular note was girls in the 70's harvesting ginger in a bikini, image that in todays world of PPE!).
We were then taken up to the factory and talked through how Ginger grows, it's applications, how you would use young vs old ginger for different things, and how it is in the same family group as turmeric as well as been shown bits of the factory and the processes used to make different ginger products.
Finally we were taken to a little room where we were given different ways of eating ginger to try, including a Buderim ginger cordial drink, ginger chutney on a meatball, some 'naked' ginger etc.
We finished by getting a discount on all 'Buderim' ginger products as we exited our tour into the merch room with all the other ginger (as well as other things) for sale.
It was all very commercial and touristy but we enjoyed the change of pace, having a look in the store we bought some ginger products for my in-laws as they were staying at ours to look after our Dog: Orla. We also bought ourselves some naked ginger pieces, a little bottle of ginger sauce and some lavender infused honey. We packed it all into my backpack to carry around and we set off through the Zog walk, and through the rainforest walk, enjoying a gentle stroll through the greenery in the shade of a lovely and warm day.
We finished by getting a discount on all 'Buderim' ginger products as we exited our tour into the merch room with all the other ginger (as well as other things) for sale.
It was all very commercial and touristy but we enjoyed the change of pace, having a look in the store we bought some ginger products for my in-laws as they were staying at ours to look after our Dog: Orla. We also bought ourselves some naked ginger pieces, a little bottle of ginger sauce and some lavender infused honey. We packed it all into my backpack to carry around and we set off through the Zog walk, and through the rainforest walk, enjoying a gentle stroll through the greenery in the shade of a lovely and warm day.
Train tracks that looped through and around the Ginger Factory, in which a little mini train for kids rode around.
We considered paying to ride the little train, but after seeing how incredibly packed it was with young children we decided against it, preferring our stroll across the grounds.
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| Fungi growing on a tree |
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| Giant Bamboo |
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| A Gruffalo, another creature from the same author who wrote Zog |
The Zog's, (which I quickly looked up and learned are Dragons) where all around the rainforest path for young children to run around and find. We preferred just enjoying the natural scenery, though I imagine young kids who like Zog's or finding things had a blasting running around finding them all with a little map.
'That might be me soon, walking around with an overly excited kid.' I thought. 'If I don't die first.' I thought after, shaking that negative thought out of my head.
'That might be me soon, walking around with an overly excited kid.' I thought. 'If I don't die first.' I thought after, shaking that negative thought out of my head.
We finished the walk, returning back through the 'rainbrella' section, heading over now towards the Macadamia Factory.
It wasn't the largest and the walls were lined with all sorts of macadamia flavours, and sauces/marinades. I was worried we had walked into a tourist trap. We followed a small door through that took as past a glass wall were you could see into the macadamia factory that was not currently running, there was a little hold where workings could drop macadamia nuts through while they worked for people to sample.
"It's shame it's not running while we're here." My Wife lamented as we returned to the original room over to where I sign said to ask about trying 'samples'. Luckily when we returned someone has just been offered one and so we stood there to also receive a sample.
"It's shame it's not running while we're here." My Wife lamented as we returned to the original room over to where I sign said to ask about trying 'samples'. Luckily when we returned someone has just been offered one and so we stood there to also receive a sample.
There was a whole heap of different flavours and as the other people walked away the lady decided to give us a sample of each and everyone one (except for an Abalone flavoured one, which she said was disgusting, but I still was curious).
All of them were delicious, and we thought good value for money, so we ended up buying the salted chilli flavour, the sea salt & rosemary flavour, the finger lime and jalapeno flavour, the crunchy hickory flavour and two maple pancake flavour (buy 5 get the 6th free so the 2nd maple pancake was for the in-laws). As these were all the gourmet packets they were 75g, so we also bought a 200g pack of the 'vanilla in shell' opting not to get any chocolate coated ones on our road trip, as they would likely melt in the car.
All of them were delicious, and we thought good value for money, so we ended up buying the salted chilli flavour, the sea salt & rosemary flavour, the finger lime and jalapeno flavour, the crunchy hickory flavour and two maple pancake flavour (buy 5 get the 6th free so the 2nd maple pancake was for the in-laws). As these were all the gourmet packets they were 75g, so we also bought a 200g pack of the 'vanilla in shell' opting not to get any chocolate coated ones on our road trip, as they would likely melt in the car.
With our haul of macadamia's we set off towards another 'Big Thing' the Big Pineapple.
It was $12 to climb into and up on top of the Pineapple, but we instead opted for the $12 train ride around the Pineapple Plantation.
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| "All aboard!" |
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| Growing Pineapples |
The train took as past the growing grounds, and a historical old shed with old pieces of train memorabilia as we were told the history of the Big Pineapple grounds (read more here if you are interested).
We passed by a Treetop Challenge place on our left.
"That would have been fun to do." I commented to my Wife as the train now began through a little bit of rainforest.
"That would have been fun to do." I commented to my Wife as the train now began through a little bit of rainforest.
We continued past another old shed, and both my Wife and I were amused at the boots placed to make it look as if someone was using the old outhouse.
We passed a tree with a fruit growing on it (the name of which I forgot, sorry)
The train ended by passing the the Wildlife HQ Zoo, where it also did a stop for some people to hop off to enter the Zoo and others from the Zoo to jump on, while passing along the back of the Zoo we were able to see a couple of different animals which was cool, and felt like a precursor to our plans for the following day which was to visit 'Australia Zoo' or as I kept calling it much to the chagrin of my Wife: 'The Irwin Zoo'.
Soon our train ride was finished, and after snapping a photo we headed up so I could grab a coffee from the café for the road as we now headed towards Maleny on Jinibara Country in the Sunshine Coast.
It wasn't too long a drive from the Big Pineapple to Maleny, as we snacked on our chilli macadamias along the way, pulling up at one point at 'Gerrards Lookout' where people were looking out and Paragliders zipped around in the sky showing off for the onlookers.
We continued on through Montville, a cute little town the I wanted to stop in for an explore (especially after seeing a watermill looking thing on the side of a building), however we never stopped and never got an opportunity to stop in and explore there.
We stopped at a Mobil fuel station in Maleny to refuel, before continuing on to our next and final stop before heading to our hotel. This stop was the Platypus Viewing Platform near the Maleny Golf course.
We pulled up, heading down to the quiet spot were we stood in silence, looking out over the water for any signs of Platypus.
We watched for a short while as I noticed the water bubbling on the left and I pointed out to my Wife as a platypus surfaced before going under again. Soon a very loud group of three arrived, and I had noticed a spot where you could walk down that was now closer to where the platypus was, these obnoxiously loud people spotted that too, walking down to that section to the tip of the water snapping photos. They soon returned, as we decided to go for a wander down, however the platypus had now vanished.
and so we continued on the walk, following a concrete path further down along the water, before turning around and heading back to the car to head to our accommodation at the Maleny Views Motel.
As we checked in a couple greeted us, asking to help them with marketing why we had chosen to stay there. My Wife answered saying that the rooms had looked good, were where we had wanted to be, and were affordable.
We took our key to our room (where my Wife had paid extra for a room with a large hot-tub, booking this prior to becoming pregnant), and the man told us we had 'fresh Maleny milk' for us in our fridge, as well as being told that there was a thai place next door if we wanted to eat there for dinner.
We took our key to our room (where my Wife had paid extra for a room with a large hot-tub, booking this prior to becoming pregnant), and the man told us we had 'fresh Maleny milk' for us in our fridge, as well as being told that there was a thai place next door if we wanted to eat there for dinner.
We moved our stuff into our room, opening our big glass door to sit out looking at our hotel room views.
Neither of us felt like thai for dinner so soon after so we looked around at locations to eat, finding, surprisingly that many places were actually closed.
My Wife soon found a pizza place called 'Lane 32 Woodfired Pizza Maleny' and we drove back into town to go out for dinner just as it was getting dark. (Noticing a sign driving along the way to a place called Gardeners Falls, which we drove past many times and I kept desperately wanting to go suss them out, but again, never got to on this trip).
My Wife soon found a pizza place called 'Lane 32 Woodfired Pizza Maleny' and we drove back into town to go out for dinner just as it was getting dark. (Noticing a sign driving along the way to a place called Gardeners Falls, which we drove past many times and I kept desperately wanting to go suss them out, but again, never got to on this trip).
We walked down into the venue, sitting in the beautiful outdoor area as the weather was surprisingly lovely, and sat down to look at a menu while a water dragon chilled on some wooden stairs behind my Wife.
We decided to get a vegetarian pizza (fire-roasted pumpkin, fresh basil pesto, sun dried tomatoes, crumbled feta, toasted pine nuts and topped with balsamic dressed rocket) and a meat pizza, the inferno (pepperoni, hot salami, mozzarella, olives, jalapenos, chilli flakes, chipotle sauce and oregano).
Both of us found the pizza to be fantastic (and I've always found wood-fired pizzas to be overrated personally, but not these!)
We both agreed that if we lived nearby this would be our pizza joint. We ate and talked, enjoying the fresh night air, as a couple came in with the cute Dog sitting by us. We finished, and thanked the man who was greeting everyone who came in, and headed back to our hotel, to run the hot tub (but not very hot because of my Wife being pregnant).
We sat in the lukewarm bubble bath, which was still causing my Wife to overheat, we eventually jumped out, loading up Netflix (and again having to log a former guest of the motel out correctly) and decided to watch the newly released Bridget Jones: Mad About a Boy movie, before getting some sleep, ready for a big day at the zoo.
We sat in the lukewarm bubble bath, which was still causing my Wife to overheat, we eventually jumped out, loading up Netflix (and again having to log a former guest of the motel out correctly) and decided to watch the newly released Bridget Jones: Mad About a Boy movie, before getting some sleep, ready for a big day at the zoo.
Day 5 - We awoke the next morning, and luckily didn't really need to find a place to grab coffee at the Maleny Views Motel had a coffee pod machine in the room with pods. I opened the fridge to use the fresh Maleny milk which was in a mason jar, with a sticker on the lid saying it was from Maleny Dairies. My Wife had a quick shower while I sat outside looking out over a view in the morning sun, drinking my coffee and doing my morning puzzles on my phone.
We still had to work out breakfast, and just ended up heading into Beerwah to 'Bakery & Café – Banjo’s Beerwah', and just grabbed some spinach and feta rolls, before getting to Australia Zoo on opening, and we were lucky enough to get a park at the carpark near the entry but we new it was only a matter of time before it go crazy busy.
We still had to work out breakfast, and just ended up heading into Beerwah to 'Bakery & Café – Banjo’s Beerwah', and just grabbed some spinach and feta rolls, before getting to Australia Zoo on opening, and we were lucky enough to get a park at the carpark near the entry but we new it was only a matter of time before it go crazy busy.
We entered the Zoo (having pre-bought tickets), opening the map for a quick look at the layout as we applied sunscreen.
We did a loop past the Echidnas, Otters, Australian Lizards and Komodo Dragons as there was a toilet block here we visited before setting out to explore the rest of the Zoo. Next we visited the Rhinoceros Iguanas and American Alligators, both of which were super cute.
We did a loop around the Aldabra Tortoises.
Then we continued past Irwin's named after the Iwin's who actually discovered it.
Excerpt from Wikipedia: "Steve and Bob Irwin caught a female specimen of E. irwini on a crocodile-catching trip on the Burdekin River in 1990, on a fishing line. Steve Irwin took pictures and sent them to turtle expert John Cann, who verified that it was indeed a new species. The new species was named after Steve Irwin."
Just nearby some Zookeepers were out with another type of Tortoise and a Blue-tongued lizard, that you could pat. We started with the blue-tongued, which I had sometimes had a 'temporary' pets, when my Dad would find them in the yard (please don't do this, this was something people did in the past but leave animals in their environments). One of those pet Blue-tongues had actually bitten me on my right hand pointy finger and I had developed a fear of lizards for years after, learning to love them once again in time (the bite really fucking hurt).
"Have you seen these guys around before?" The keeper asked, and I filled her in on how we had a doorbell at our side door, under our covered area for Orla to press which would send a signal to a thing inside (basically a doorbell), so we could let her in. One day while she was inside, the doorbell went off, and I went to inspect it, finding a big old blue-tongue had crawled over it, he soon vanished somewhere into our backyard and we never saw him again.
Next we went over to pat the shell of the little tortoise.
Next was the Australian Crocodiles, most the Salt water Crocs in their individual enclosures and some Fresh water crocs in theirs together. They were absolutely amazing creatures, like seeing real life Dinosaurs and we stayed for a decent while watching them walk and swim around.
We continued through the zoo, past the Tasmanian Devils, Dingoes, Cassowaries, and 'Koala Island'.
My Wife was feeling the heat now, and she grabbed a mango gelato from a nearby café as we continued through the zoo, viewing all the animals in the 'pink section' of the zoo map which included a bunch more Crocodiles, a Koala nursery a Burmese python and an Anaconda.
We also passed:
"A little piece of history
Steve grew up right here, and from an early age was involved in everything from feeding the animals to building some of the earliest animal habitats.
When Steve and Terri took over the small wildlife park and renamed it Australia Zoo, Steve spent more time building, often through the early hours of the morning. It paid off, and the original two acre wildlife park is now over 750 acres!
Steve couldn't pass up an opportunity to carve a fallen tree into a beautiful timber crocodile, show some serious skill with a chainsaw. Over the years the weather took its toll on the crocodile, but we preserved the head in honour of all of Steve's passion and hard work to create the zoo you're walking through today."
"A little piece of history
Steve grew up right here, and from an early age was involved in everything from feeding the animals to building some of the earliest animal habitats.
When Steve and Terri took over the small wildlife park and renamed it Australia Zoo, Steve spent more time building, often through the early hours of the morning. It paid off, and the original two acre wildlife park is now over 750 acres!
Steve couldn't pass up an opportunity to carve a fallen tree into a beautiful timber crocodile, show some serious skill with a chainsaw. Over the years the weather took its toll on the crocodile, but we preserved the head in honour of all of Steve's passion and hard work to create the zoo you're walking through today."
We passed by the 'Crocoseum', where we had to return in the afternoon to see the show at 1:15pm. We entered into the yellow section of the map, we past an open area, with Kangaroo's hopping around in the open for people to feed or pat, heading down to our right to see Quokkas, more Echidnas before continuing through into a section for wetland birds, which happened to also have large model Dinosaurs in it (there had been one or two in the pink section of the zoo too, marked out with Dinosaur footprints on the map, but these two had kids climbing all on them which made me feel too suss to photograph), I took photos of all the Dinosaurs as I passed through the bird section to send to my friend Stuart, also an avid Dino-Nerd.
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| Spinosaurus |
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| Allosaurus |
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| Pterosaur |
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| Minmi |
We passed through the section of the wetland Crane, the Brolga, before encountering the magnificent Jabirus, which was vomiting heavily to help build some sort of a nest.
The frequent vomiting made my pregnant Wife too ill to keep watching, so we finished walking through the bird section which had more room for Cassowaries, Emus and a Sulphur-crested cockatoo I said hi to, as my Wife stayed away saying that she 'hated cockatoos'.
We looked at the time, and it was now almost lunch, and there was so much of the zoo to still see, but we also had to be back at the Crocoseum by 1pm, so we hoped on a free shuttle, which took us all the way to the other end of the zoo, to the African section as we had planned to get lunch from the 'Grasslands Café' which did all African cuisine.
As we hopped off the shuttle we came to a wide savannah area filled with giraffes and zebras, continuing past a Southern white rhinoceros and we reached the café, ordering the 'Loaded Boerewors' (Traditional South African sausage on a brioche bun with apricot chutney, cheese, avocado and Kenyan Chachumbari salad) and the 'Igwinya' (Freshly-baked African style fried bread with curries mince filling, served with a side of slaw.)
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| Igwinya |
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| Loaded Boerewors |
We looked around at the always adorable Meerkats, maybe one of the cutest animals on the planet.
We headed for a look over the Cheetahs, who were very far away, past an island in the centre of the water filled with Lemurs, as we made our way around to 'Bindi's Island' where lemurs apparently roamed free. We did a loop around past some more Aldabra tortoises, and towards Bindi's Treehouse "an amazing three-storey tree house inspired by Bindi's work on her TV show, Bindi the Jungle Girl, and the film Return to Nim's Island."
There was an enclosure up here for another type of echidna, some freshwater turtles, and a boa constrictor. My Wife couldn't make it all the way to the top, so I headed up to the top before returning back down as we left the island heading now to the 'Southeast Asia' part of the zoo past the Tigers, Red Pandas and my Wife headed to a nearby toilet as I said I would meet her by the Sumatran Elephants, only to arrive just as they were doing the elephant keeper talk. Where they discussed planting chilli's as a way to keep elephants from entering villages as a conservation method so they elephants would return to the jungle. The elephants then came over to right in front of me for a swim in the nearby water, my Wife made her way through the crowd which had gathered behind me.
The talk finished and we continued through the Southeast Asian section past the Elongated & Radiated Tortoises. We made our way back to the 'Crocoseum', deciding we both needed a cold drink from walking around in the heat all day. We went into the 'Crikey Café' just to grab some drinks from the fridges. It was like a big Ikea Food court, where after you got your food drinks to had to line up at a check out and they scanned up your items where you'd pay and then leave. It was super hot and overly crowded and we lined up in a line that was taking forever as they people were super slow scanning each item.
We jumped queues to another section that opened up, which was taking ages, as they were having difficulty getting the scanner to work. We were there about 10minutes before we left and joined separate lines, agreeing to jump into whoever's line got there quicker. After about 5 minutes they ended up closing the line on the end we had left and so they people who had patiently waited there hoping for a fix now had to make their way to the back of some other long queue. We eventually got through, describing the whole ordeal as a huge clusterfuck as we made our way into the Crocoseum with half and hour to spare to get good seats.
We got a good spot in the shade, a a large TV in the Crocoseum played advertisements for the park, featuring various Irwin's and showing old footage of Steve before his untimely death which had occurred back when I was in High School (to this day I still remember walking into school and being informed of the incident).
Soon the show began where they talked about conservation (always a good thing!), and began with a bird show, before the keepers go the large saltwater crocs into the arena for a feed.
After the show ended we made our way back through the yellow (wetland bird) section on the map, towards the purple section, with koalas resting in the gum trees along the way, as well as little hives of Sugarbag Bees.
"Tetragonula carbonaria
Like European bees, Sugarbag Bees live in colonies and produce honey from nectar. But unlike their northern counterparts, Australian native bees are stingless.
Endemic to the northeast coast of Australia. These bees are eusocial, which is the highest level of organisation of animal society.
The age of a bee determines their task in the hive, known as age polyethism. Some of their jobs include: building brood comb, guarding the hive entrance, removing waste and foraging for food.
Stingless bees are often mistaken for flies because they are mostly black and similar in size."
Like European bees, Sugarbag Bees live in colonies and produce honey from nectar. But unlike their northern counterparts, Australian native bees are stingless.
Endemic to the northeast coast of Australia. These bees are eusocial, which is the highest level of organisation of animal society.
The age of a bee determines their task in the hive, known as age polyethism. Some of their jobs include: building brood comb, guarding the hive entrance, removing waste and foraging for food.
Stingless bees are often mistaken for flies because they are mostly black and similar in size."
We entered another large open section of passive Kangaroos we stopped to say hi to, as this area was less crowded.
We continued through 'Grace's Bird Garden', filled with unique and interesting birdlife, before passing by some Wombats, and then inside to see 'Robert's Reptile House', filled with some lizards but mostly different species of venomous snakes. We passed a final section of Wombats, before re-entering the pink section of the map, thus completing our tour of the zoo. We returned to the toilets we had used near the entrance, nearby the Otters who we quickly revisited as they were up and playing and were much more lively and they were cute and adorable to watch.
We exited the zoo, but we were not done. We had paid an extra $2 that gave us access to go and view the 'Australia Zoo Wildlife Hospital', but first we had to locate it, as if was the other side of a very large carpark. We made our way across in the heat, entering what reminded me a a vet clinic.
We entered the clinic that had everything behind large glass, and it did feel like just looking into a vet. We saw some sick and injured koalas with writing up explaining what had occurred with them and the place made me feel really sad about what was happening all around the country to native animals, most of which was of course, due to humans.
We entered the clinic that had everything behind large glass, and it did feel like just looking into a vet. We saw some sick and injured koalas with writing up explaining what had occurred with them and the place made me feel really sad about what was happening all around the country to native animals, most of which was of course, due to humans.
We returned to our car, heading back to our accommodation when I mentioned I could do with a coffee.
"They're all closed." My Wife told me, looking on her phone, until she said she found one that was still open, just down the road from where we were staying.
We headed down Mountain View road towards Mary Cairncross Scenic reverse, to the Mountain View Café.
"They're all closed." My Wife told me, looking on her phone, until she said she found one that was still open, just down the road from where we were staying.
We headed down Mountain View road towards Mary Cairncross Scenic reverse, to the Mountain View Café.
As we passed the café, right across from it I was blown away by the view of the Glasshouse Mountains. We pulled up along the road, and walked back to the café, taking a picture of them before we crossed the road to go inside.
I got a latte and my Wife a matcha latte, and we sat outside, looking out over them while we drank, agreeing to come back here for breakfast the following day.
After we were done we headed upstairs for a higher up view of them, and also found some information of the Glasshouse Mountains.
"The glass house mountains story
Tibrogargan and his wife, Beerwah had nine children, from Coonowrin the eldest down to the youngest, now known as Wild Horse Mountain.
Because Beewah was heavily pregnant, Tibrogargan asked Coonowrin to look after his brother and sisters. But Coonowrin was easily distracted and wasn't paying attention when a large wave swept the baby Wild Horse away. Fortunately. Tibrogargan saved his little son but he and Beerwah were sad about Coonowrin's behaviour and cried tears that formed little creeks.
When Coonowrin saw this he was so ashamed he decided to show his family that he could be a responsible grown-up. He went to the country of the Maroochy people to steal one of the women of that group. But Ninderry, the headman of the Maroochy people, was waiting for Coonowrin and attacked him with his mighty club. Coonowring was lucky to escape with a crooked neck.
Coonowrin's family were impressed with his brave attempt, and welcomed back their young hero.
Today, as we look out across the Glass House Mountains, we can see the eleven members of Tibrogargan's family."
After we were done we headed upstairs for a higher up view of them, and also found some information of the Glasshouse Mountains.
"The glass house mountains story
Tibrogargan and his wife, Beerwah had nine children, from Coonowrin the eldest down to the youngest, now known as Wild Horse Mountain.
Because Beewah was heavily pregnant, Tibrogargan asked Coonowrin to look after his brother and sisters. But Coonowrin was easily distracted and wasn't paying attention when a large wave swept the baby Wild Horse away. Fortunately. Tibrogargan saved his little son but he and Beerwah were sad about Coonowrin's behaviour and cried tears that formed little creeks.
When Coonowrin saw this he was so ashamed he decided to show his family that he could be a responsible grown-up. He went to the country of the Maroochy people to steal one of the women of that group. But Ninderry, the headman of the Maroochy people, was waiting for Coonowrin and attacked him with his mighty club. Coonowring was lucky to escape with a crooked neck.
Coonowrin's family were impressed with his brave attempt, and welcomed back their young hero.
Today, as we look out across the Glass House Mountains, we can see the eleven members of Tibrogargan's family."
"I name them the Glass Houses
On the 17th May 1770 after rounding Cape Moreton, Lieutenant James Cook noted in his journal that there are 3 hills inland that would provide a landmark for future exploration of Moreton Bay.
He also recorded that 'these hills are very remarkable on account of their singular form of elevation which very much resemble glass houses which occasioned me giving them that name'.
Cook's reference was to the glass making kilns in his native Yorkshire that were known as the English glass houses."
On the 17th May 1770 after rounding Cape Moreton, Lieutenant James Cook noted in his journal that there are 3 hills inland that would provide a landmark for future exploration of Moreton Bay.
He also recorded that 'these hills are very remarkable on account of their singular form of elevation which very much resemble glass houses which occasioned me giving them that name'.
Cook's reference was to the glass making kilns in his native Yorkshire that were known as the English glass houses."
"silent witness to an intrusive past
25-27 million years ago, these mountains were formed underground by the intrusion of magma (molten rock) into fissures and crevices within the earth's crust.
Geologists suggest that the land surface at the time was 300 to 400 metres above the present level. As it was primarily sandstone, it gradually eroded over millions of years exposing the outstanding hardened rock formations you see today. National Heritage listing was gained in 2006 celebrating the aesthetic value of the mountains."
25-27 million years ago, these mountains were formed underground by the intrusion of magma (molten rock) into fissures and crevices within the earth's crust.
Geologists suggest that the land surface at the time was 300 to 400 metres above the present level. As it was primarily sandstone, it gradually eroded over millions of years exposing the outstanding hardened rock formations you see today. National Heritage listing was gained in 2006 celebrating the aesthetic value of the mountains."
There was a little walk along and up a boardwalk through a rainforest, just next to the toilets on the ground floor which we followed up and through the forest.
The boardwalks looped around, reconnecting with the top of the Mary Cairncross Scenic Rainforest Discovery Centre (which linked in to the upstairs of the café).
"If I knew it linked back we could have at least walked downhill!" My Wife bemoaned.
We followed a track down, past a sign pointing towards a rainforest walk, and I was all keen and eager to do it. My exhausted Wife talked me out of it, saying that we could "do it tomorrow morning, before the café opens and before breakfast."
"If I knew it linked back we could have at least walked downhill!" My Wife bemoaned.
We followed a track down, past a sign pointing towards a rainforest walk, and I was all keen and eager to do it. My exhausted Wife talked me out of it, saying that we could "do it tomorrow morning, before the café opens and before breakfast."
We headed back to our accommodation finally, showering off and sifting through various restaurants (or at least the ones that were open!), trying to work out what to get for dinner. (Sadly the pizza place was now closed as we were very tempted to go again!)
My Wife found the menu for the 'Bistro at Maleny Hotel' which listed 'Pork, Black Pudding and Apple'.
"Ooooh, that sounds good!" I said, reading that it was 'Almond-fed tender striploin (300g) topped with black pudding and caramelised apples, citrus glaze, champ mash potato, seasonal greens and pork jus'
My Wife found the menu for the 'Bistro at Maleny Hotel' which listed 'Pork, Black Pudding and Apple'.
"Ooooh, that sounds good!" I said, reading that it was 'Almond-fed tender striploin (300g) topped with black pudding and caramelised apples, citrus glaze, champ mash potato, seasonal greens and pork jus'
We both agreed that we wanted it, heading out there, and getting a table once more outdoors while I ordered, and found the bar to get us both a lemon-lime bitters to drink.
The pork came out and tasted every bit as delicious as it sounded.
With full bellies we returned to our accommodation for some rest, with a big day of walks through the Glasshouse Mountains planned.
Day 6 - We awoke the next morning and set of a short way down the road to Mary Cairncross Reserve, setting out for an early morning rainforest walk.
We came along an information sign, a short way into the walk.
"rainforest island
The reserve is a rich subtropical rainforest remnant that once covered much of the local area.
Many plants and animals that live in subtropical lowland rainforest are endemic, meaning they are not found anywhere else. The 55ha forest preserves critical habitat for hundreds of species, including several that are rare and endangered.
391 plant species
141 bird species
25 mammal species
51 reptile and amphibian species
1000's of invertebrates
100s of fungi"
"rainforest island
The reserve is a rich subtropical rainforest remnant that once covered much of the local area.
Many plants and animals that live in subtropical lowland rainforest are endemic, meaning they are not found anywhere else. The 55ha forest preserves critical habitat for hundreds of species, including several that are rare and endangered.
391 plant species
141 bird species
25 mammal species
51 reptile and amphibian species
1000's of invertebrates
100s of fungi"
It also included a spinningg colour coded map, that highlighted the amount of subtropical rainforest pre-1750 and the subtropical rainforest today.
We enjoyed the clean fresh air, looking around at the beautiful nature around us as we slowly made our way along the forest path.
"Watkin's Fig
Ficus watkinsiana
After germinating high in a host tree seedlings of this species send roots to the forest floor eventually growing to form a large, widely-buttressed emergent strangler fig. The roots thicken and eventually kill the host species, often leaving the fig with a hollow trunk once the host tree decays. Cavities in the trunk provide important shelter and nesting sites for birds, mammals and reptiles."
Ficus watkinsiana
After germinating high in a host tree seedlings of this species send roots to the forest floor eventually growing to form a large, widely-buttressed emergent strangler fig. The roots thicken and eventually kill the host species, often leaving the fig with a hollow trunk once the host tree decays. Cavities in the trunk provide important shelter and nesting sites for birds, mammals and reptiles."
We came to a split in the trail, with a signpost and a large map of the reserve showing the 3 different walks, the Rainforest loop (1.7km), the Pademelon loop (1.3km) and the Piccabeen loop (1.3km) all a Grade 2 Walk (Track is a hardened and compacted surface and may have gentle hill sections and occasional steps)
My Wife asked if I was ok to just do the rainforest loop, which covered the majority of the sections on both the Pademelon and Piccabeen loops anyway. Knowing I had a full day of walking ahead I told her this was fine, and so we followed the path straight ahead as we would loop back out the path that headed off to our right.
My Wife asked if I was ok to just do the rainforest loop, which covered the majority of the sections on both the Pademelon and Piccabeen loops anyway. Knowing I had a full day of walking ahead I told her this was fine, and so we followed the path straight ahead as we would loop back out the path that headed off to our right.
"Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve
...in the heart of Jinibara Country
This is a scenic place and we have cared for the country for many years. Listen deeply, watch attentively and tread lightly on this country because we are part of the land. The land cares for us when we care for and respect the land." - Jinibara Elders
...in the heart of Jinibara Country
This is a scenic place and we have cared for the country for many years. Listen deeply, watch attentively and tread lightly on this country because we are part of the land. The land cares for us when we care for and respect the land." - Jinibara Elders
The area was truly the perfect spot to practice 'forest bathing'. As we continued along, we could hear a particular recurring bird sound, it was very distinctive because it sounded like a cat wailing, and we learned it was a species known as the 'Green Catbird - Ailuroedus crassirostris'
We never saw them, but we heard them the entire way through the walk. We came upon a large Wonga Vine (Pandorea pandorana) hanging from a tree just above the path, with a little sign to the side which read:
"Wonga Vine
This beautiful vine which comes in white, mauve pink, purple, and maroon forms is a popular garden climbing plant. Most gardeners could not imagine it growing to this size.
PLEASE HELP PROTECT THIS OLD GIANT
This Wonga Vine is centuries old. In order to preserve her for future generations, please refrain from swinging off, or hanging from her,
Thank you."
Following the train on I noticed some old wooden structure, with concrete footings which had long since crumbled away.
We soon spotted out first Pademelon, as it quickly hopped away through the trees.
It was not long until we had encountered another, this one looking swollen in her pouch so we believed she was holding a pademelon joey.
Soon we came to a section of the track which was closed for unknown reasons, the trail took us right instead and I wondered how much of the trail we were missing.
We soon came into a split in the track, where we could turn right to complete the pademelon loop, and learned the closed track and only cause us to miss the very top of the rainforest loop.
We continued along, still enjoy the brisk air, and nature as we felt our stomachs begin to rumble for breakfast.
"red gold
How do you value a forest giant?
Much is said about the dollar value of the red cedar tree (Toona ciliata). Its fragrant, workable, striking red wood made it a target for timber-getting. Visitors now marvel at the beauty of the red cedar entry doors, but what is the value of this tree to the forest?
From top to bottom, this giant supports biodiversity. A deciduous tree, red cedars shed abundant leaves that carpet the forest floor, enriching soil and hosting invertebrates.
Its fissured, rough bark provides the perfect spot for staghorns and orchids to take hold. A protective, sweeping canopy creates a microclimate for smaller plants. Even its flush of delicate pink leaves in spring offers a tasty meal for insect larvae."
How do you value a forest giant?
Much is said about the dollar value of the red cedar tree (Toona ciliata). Its fragrant, workable, striking red wood made it a target for timber-getting. Visitors now marvel at the beauty of the red cedar entry doors, but what is the value of this tree to the forest?
From top to bottom, this giant supports biodiversity. A deciduous tree, red cedars shed abundant leaves that carpet the forest floor, enriching soil and hosting invertebrates.
Its fissured, rough bark provides the perfect spot for staghorns and orchids to take hold. A protective, sweeping canopy creates a microclimate for smaller plants. Even its flush of delicate pink leaves in spring offers a tasty meal for insect larvae."
We came to a section filled with long thin fallen trees, and I began complaining that people were coming along the walk, ruining the serenity by making 'dumb noises', as we got closer, it turned out the dumb repetitive noise wasn't stupid people but was in fact a 'Wompoo fruit dove'.
We walked through the remaining sections of the walk, past the little creek that was one of the last refuges for mountain freshwater crayfish, returning to the now open cafe for breakfast overlooking the glasshouse mountains.
I once more got a latte, and my Wife a matcha latte, but I still felt like a 'healthier' breakfast, having gone of highly fatty/salty/greasy food my eating so much of it in the early stages of my Wife's pregnancy (due to her feeling ill that is all she wanted to eat).
I ended up getting the 'Vegie Big Breaky' which was haloumi, mushroom, grilled tomato, a potato rösti, spinach, avocado, eggs with a blueberry tomato chutney served on a sourdough, while my Wife got the 'Breaky Burger'. We were very full by the end, but a big breakfast was what we needed, and now we set out towards 'Wild Horse Mountain Scenic Lookout' a 700m walk to a lookout over Wild Horse Mountain.
It was about a 30minute drive, also giving some good views of all the individual mountains, past some pineapple farms. We crossed down over the Bruce Highway, down a road past pine forests until we arrived at the carpark.
It was incredibly suspect when we arrived. There was an old rundown trailer while piles and piles of rubbish out the front, as well as a tent. It looked like a total drug den. But there were also regular cars parked away from it, as well as vans of campers enjoying morning breakfast and sitting around chatting.
We walked past the dodgy trailer towards the entry and start of the walk up to Wild Horse Mountain Lookout.
It was incredibly suspect when we arrived. There was an old rundown trailer while piles and piles of rubbish out the front, as well as a tent. It looked like a total drug den. But there were also regular cars parked away from it, as well as vans of campers enjoying morning breakfast and sitting around chatting.
We walked past the dodgy trailer towards the entry and start of the walk up to Wild Horse Mountain Lookout.
It was an incredibly steep 700m, and my Wife struggled the entire way, as we took ample breaks. It was sunny, and warm, but it didn't feel too hot, but I could feel my head sweating in my hat which I took off every now and then to let the air blow across my head, which felt cooling on the sweat.
About the midway point we needed to stop, and my Wife had a little sit down, before having a drink and continuing.
"I would have just stayed in the car if I felt safe." She said, referencing the dodgy trailer with all its trash.
About the midway point we needed to stop, and my Wife had a little sit down, before having a drink and continuing.
"I would have just stayed in the car if I felt safe." She said, referencing the dodgy trailer with all its trash.
A bit over the halfway point there was a clear view on my left, looking over the pine plantation.
We finally approached the summit, getting our first view of the fire tower.
"Lookout - you're in a fire tower
This lookout is also a fire tower that HQPlantations staff can use to watch for fires in times of high fire danger.
Smoke mean fire - but where is it? The vertical wire at this table lines up the fire with a compass bearing on the handrail, which can then be plotted on the map on the fire table.
A second bearing is taken from another fire tower and the fire's exact location is where the two bearings intersect. This information is passed on to HQPlantations firefighters who go into action."
This lookout is also a fire tower that HQPlantations staff can use to watch for fires in times of high fire danger.
Smoke mean fire - but where is it? The vertical wire at this table lines up the fire with a compass bearing on the handrail, which can then be plotted on the map on the fire table.
A second bearing is taken from another fire tower and the fire's exact location is where the two bearings intersect. This information is passed on to HQPlantations firefighters who go into action."
Reading about how it was a fire tower made me think of the novel 'Desolation Angels' by Jack Kerouac, and we climbed the wooden stairs for a view over the Glasshouse Mountains once more.
On the roof of the fire tower, with each direction, included a piece of information.
"Pumicestone Passage (East-north-east)
You are in the middle of the Pumicestone Catchment. A catchment is a land area surrounded by natural features where water drains to the lowest point. On the coastline is Pumicestone Passage, named by Matthew Flinders. This is part of the Moreton Bay Marine Park and contains important wetlands that are home to a variety of birds, fish, crustaceans, dugongs and turtles, and are an internationally recognised site for migratory shorebirds."
"Pumicestone Passage (East-north-east)
You are in the middle of the Pumicestone Catchment. A catchment is a land area surrounded by natural features where water drains to the lowest point. On the coastline is Pumicestone Passage, named by Matthew Flinders. This is part of the Moreton Bay Marine Park and contains important wetlands that are home to a variety of birds, fish, crustaceans, dugongs and turtles, and are an internationally recognised site for migratory shorebirds."
"A forest mosaic (South)
Brisbane, Queensland's capital city, can be seen to the south. Looking down, you'll see a mosaic pattern of plantation forests, planted for timber essential for Queenland's growth, The plantations have been planted in compartments at various times and are harvested in these compartments when mature (for exotic species that's around 25 to 30 years) and ae then replanted."
Brisbane, Queensland's capital city, can be seen to the south. Looking down, you'll see a mosaic pattern of plantation forests, planted for timber essential for Queenland's growth, The plantations have been planted in compartments at various times and are harvested in these compartments when mature (for exotic species that's around 25 to 30 years) and ae then replanted."
"Forestry started here (South-west)
Forestry started in the Glass House Mountains region in 1928. As land-use it was an immediate success, in contrast to earlier attempts by the government of the day to have returned World War 1 soldiers turn the bush into farms. New forest plantings in south-east Queensland use cloned Slash Pine x Caribbean Pine hybrids that grow well on these variable soil types and provide excellent timber for local processing needs."
Forestry started in the Glass House Mountains region in 1928. As land-use it was an immediate success, in contrast to earlier attempts by the government of the day to have returned World War 1 soldiers turn the bush into farms. New forest plantings in south-east Queensland use cloned Slash Pine x Caribbean Pine hybrids that grow well on these variable soil types and provide excellent timber for local processing needs."
"Golden oldies (West-north-west)
Only the three tallest of the Glass House Mountains - Tibrogargan, Mt Beerwah and Mt Coonowrin - were volcanos 25 million years ago. The others are magma cooled in the surface rocks. The mountainous peaks were revealed as enormous volumes of the softer, surrounding sedimentary rocks eroded. Kangaroos, wallabies, emus, tawny frogmouth owls and black cockatoos move and forage within the native forests and forest plantations you see before you."
Only the three tallest of the Glass House Mountains - Tibrogargan, Mt Beerwah and Mt Coonowrin - were volcanos 25 million years ago. The others are magma cooled in the surface rocks. The mountainous peaks were revealed as enormous volumes of the softer, surrounding sedimentary rocks eroded. Kangaroos, wallabies, emus, tawny frogmouth owls and black cockatoos move and forage within the native forests and forest plantations you see before you."
"Forest protection (North-north-west)
The large area of native forest t the west of the Bruce Highway includes a 620-hectare scientific area set aside to protect the rare Swamp Mahogany and Plunkett Mallee native tree species. This area acts as a benchmark against which plantation forestry can be compared and is also a site for fire ecology experiments that monitor the long-term results of controlled burning."
The large area of native forest t the west of the Bruce Highway includes a 620-hectare scientific area set aside to protect the rare Swamp Mahogany and Plunkett Mallee native tree species. This area acts as a benchmark against which plantation forestry can be compared and is also a site for fire ecology experiments that monitor the long-term results of controlled burning."
There may have been more there, but that's all I took photos of the write down. It was around this time in my blog post (how meta and self-referential!), that I realised I had been writing the Glass House Mountains as Glasshouse Mountains, when referring to them myself. From this point on my blog forward I promise to use the proper grammar for them!
We walked down the wooden stairs and did a loop of the lower section of the fire tower (after convincing my Wife to brave it past a large wasp), where I pointed out some shedded snake ski and wondered what type of snake it had belonged to.
We walked down the wooden stairs and did a loop of the lower section of the fire tower (after convincing my Wife to brave it past a large wasp), where I pointed out some shedded snake ski and wondered what type of snake it had belonged to.
"Snakes shed their skin, a process called ecdysis, because their outer skin (epidermis) is made of dead keratin cells and doesn't grow with them."
We made our way down the slope returning to our car that hadn't been stolen or set on fire, now headed to our next destination 'Mount Tibrogargan'!
As we drove the road, heading away from the parking, there were a group of three individuals walking up the road, with what looked like Hungry Jack's bags in their hands (Hungry Jack was a 24 minute walk and 1 minute drive away). As we continued down the road and these individuals got closer one of them began walking diagonally, pretty much walking onto the road towards our car.
He was a young man, maybe a teenager, dressed like your usual chav, he had cold blue eyes, and he was starring directly at me in the eyes as I moved the car to the opposite side of the road as he starred with his dead eyes through the glass screen directly at me as we passed.
"Well, I think we know who is living in the trailer." I commented, as we made our way along some dirt road, past pineapple farms until we arrived at the parking area for Mount Tibrogargan.
He was a young man, maybe a teenager, dressed like your usual chav, he had cold blue eyes, and he was starring directly at me in the eyes as I moved the car to the opposite side of the road as he starred with his dead eyes through the glass screen directly at me as we passed.
"Well, I think we know who is living in the trailer." I commented, as we made our way along some dirt road, past pineapple farms until we arrived at the parking area for Mount Tibrogargan.
Jumping out of the car, we were struck by a wave of hot air. We used the public toilet, before reading the information sign with information about the various walks you could do.
We decided to do the 'Tibrogargan Circuit', 4.1km return.
"Circumnavigate Mount Tibrogargan through casuarina groves, open eucalypt and melaleuca forests. See the mountain from many angles and look for peregrine falcons soaring above."
We decided to do the 'Tibrogargan Circuit', 4.1km return.
"Circumnavigate Mount Tibrogargan through casuarina groves, open eucalypt and melaleuca forests. See the mountain from many angles and look for peregrine falcons soaring above."
We stopped at a nearby table to apply sunscreen, as the carpark was so busy I remembered my NSW Rocks, as I had 1 left still in my bag (and still others at home I needed to redistribute). I took it out, placing it down, certain it would be found.
We washed and wiped off out boots at the start of the walk, as there was a device here asking to do that to limit the spread of Phytophthora, and begun our walk around the bade of Mount Tibrogargan.
I walked along feeling the joy of being out in nature, the air was hot, but dry, so I wasn't feeling a sludgy dampness while we walked. I was hopeful too, that because the walk was around the base it would be moderate flat, and we could smash it out in no time, and move on to another walk, eager to do as much as I could while I was in town (this was however, wishful thinking).
We rounded a bend and a clear view of Mount Tibrogargan came into sight.
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| Yes, I've had the same shirt since 2017 |
This is where my day of fun and optimism ended, as the trail began a slight incline, and the elevation kept on going.
My Wife slowed to a snail's pace, and openly and loudly began complaining about the walk, and how hot it was, and how she hated Australia and how Europeans should have never colonised Australia. It was all very over the top and grating on my good mood.
We reached a split in the track, heading left, further up and around Mount Tibrogargan on the Tibrogargan circuit, or left along the Trachyte circuit. When my Wife saw more up hill, she continued on her negative rants, saying stuff like she 'should have waited in the car'.
There was a seat a short way up the stairs, and I suggested we sit to allow her to rest before we continued. I don't think any amount of time was going to be enough, because she was just not enjoying it. A short way a track on our right, led up to the summit of Mount Tibrogargan, and I had to say the adventourous side of me wanted to take the route to the summit, but in looking the mountains up prior to heading out to find walks, a website had stated Traditional Owners requested people not climb Tibrogargan and Mount Beerwah, so I was respectful of that and we pressed on with a beautiful view of 'Mount Tunbubudla' coming into sight.
"Mount Tunbudbudla (The Twins) can be seen from here. The vulnerable glossy black-cockatoo feeds on nuts of casuarina trees, so this habitat is very important for conservation.
Height: East peak 338m, West peak 296m.
Geology: composed of alkali rhyolite."
Height: East peak 338m, West peak 296m.
Geology: composed of alkali rhyolite."
Continuing around we now had views of Mount Beerwah.
Further on both Mount Beerwah and Coonowrin were in view.
I mentioned the Australian crime TV series Black Snow (Starring Travis Fimmel, probably best known for playing Ragnar Lothbrok in the TV series Vikings), in which season 2 had been filmed around the Glass House Mountains, with a very spooky incident occurring around a water hole at the base of Mount Coonowrin. My Wife didn't even remember the mountains within the show (they're very distinctive if you watch it and add to the spooky aesthetic of the season).
Next Mount Ngungun (Indigenous meaning 'black' or 'dark') came into view.
"Mount Ngungun
Fire often sweeps through these forests and evidence of this can be seen in the types of plants you see. Stringy bark, blackbutt and bloodwood trees grow here and have thick fire-tolerant bark.
Height: 253m
Geology: composed of akali rhyolite."
Fire often sweeps through these forests and evidence of this can be seen in the types of plants you see. Stringy bark, blackbutt and bloodwood trees grow here and have thick fire-tolerant bark.
Height: 253m
Geology: composed of akali rhyolite."
The entire time my Wife's negative rants had continued, as I had walked in silence trying to actually tune her out. We came across two guys, stopped in the middle of the path with big cameras and realised there were photographing a Goanna casually chilling on a nearby tree.
After we continued on, leaving the two lads to continue snapping their pictures, we shortly discussed the difference between a Goanna and a Monitor Lizard, and if they were the same, or different.
"We've had this discussion before. When we were doing Bens Walk." I said, because writing it down in a blog post had actually helped me remember when and where the conversation had occurred.
"We've had this discussion before. When we were doing Bens Walk." I said, because writing it down in a blog post had actually helped me remember when and where the conversation had occurred.
Soon the negativity continued and I actually asked if she could just not say anything if she was just going to be negative the entire time, as it was ruining my time, so then I walked with the silent treatment, trying to enjoy the views as much as I could, but in situations like this the tension is always palpable.
Soon my Wife began slowing down to an even slower pace, and the walk was taking forever, and I asked why she was walking so slowly and she said something about her hips and chaffing, but mumbled at me, obviously still annoyed and me for daring to request an end to the negativity.
Along the way there were little bridges, obviously made for small temporary streams of water to run underneath during rainy weather. When we reached these, I would stop, telling my Wife to walk ahead. I would wait a minute or so after she was out of sight, and I would continue walking again, catching up super quick and getting frustrated by how slow such a short and easy walk was taking.
All along the way, there were signs around little trail made heading up towards the mountain, all saying the same thing "Installing bolts is prohibited in national parks", obviously trying to stop climbers placing illegal bolts, anchor points and other fixtures.
All along the way, there were signs around little trail made heading up towards the mountain, all saying the same thing "Installing bolts is prohibited in national parks", obviously trying to stop climbers placing illegal bolts, anchor points and other fixtures.
After sone very slow and tedious walking (waddling from my Wife), we reached the spot where the Trachyte circuit branched off, so we continued heading right around the base of the mountain, which I knew there was not far left until we had reached the spot where the trail first split, but I was also cranky because I knew it was going to take three times as long as it should to reach that point.
Now fully around the other side of Mount Tibrogargan, we could just see the top of Mount Beerburrum far off in the distance.
"Mount Beerburrum
Indigenous meaning: 'rainbow lorikeet'
Lieutenant Matthew Flinders was the first recorded European to climb to the top of Mount Beerburrum (July 1799). Flinders described the mountain as "A pile of loose stones of many sizes which made the ascent difficult."
During the summer months grass trees, banksias and yellow peas flower here.
Height: 280m
Geology: composed of porphyritic trachyte."
Indigenous meaning: 'rainbow lorikeet'
Lieutenant Matthew Flinders was the first recorded European to climb to the top of Mount Beerburrum (July 1799). Flinders described the mountain as "A pile of loose stones of many sizes which made the ascent difficult."
During the summer months grass trees, banksias and yellow peas flower here.
Height: 280m
Geology: composed of porphyritic trachyte."
We very slowly continued along, and soon, completed the loop, only now having to follow the trail down back towards the carpark, which now felt like it took 5 times as long as it had initially, as I tried my best to remain calm, but was quietly seething with rage.
As we returned to the car finally, I offered to return to our accommodation to drop my Wife off, so she could shower and rest. She immediately became upset at offended at the idea, accusing me of wanting to 'get rid of her'.
I tried to say I was looking out for her, as she was not enjoying or wanting to do any of the walks, which is what we had planned to do during the day. "Do you just want to sit in the car then?" I asked, not sure what she actually wanted, as I dealt with frustration while trying to be empathetic towards my pregnant Wife.
I tried to say I was looking out for her, as she was not enjoying or wanting to do any of the walks, which is what we had planned to do during the day. "Do you just want to sit in the car then?" I asked, not sure what she actually wanted, as I dealt with frustration while trying to be empathetic towards my pregnant Wife.
In the end I set Google Maps to Mount Beerwah, which we knew we would not be climbing, but a website we had found listing a bunch of the Glass House Mountains walks said there was a 1km walk around the Mount Beerwah base. "1km isn't far." I reassured my Wife.
The drive there gave us spectacular views of Mount Coonowrin. We followed the gravel roads at one point along the way there, we passed a suspect individual, walking along the side of the road. I don't know how to describe why he was suspect, maybe it was no backpack, or the clothing, or the fact that there were no properties in the vicinity, but something felt 'off'.
As we arrived at Mount Beerwah it was giving totally different vibes than Mount Tibrogargan. The carpark was completely empty and there were numerous signs around warning of thefts in the area, saying to take valuables with you. Which doesn't help if they still smash in your car window to look for shit, which once happened to my parents' car when I was a child when we had gone to Macquarie Pass for a bushwalk.
There was an information sign here, most of which was dedicated to the summit route and how dangerous it is.
There rest was as follows:
"Welcome to Mount Beerwah
Jinibara people and Kabi Kabi people welcome you to the Glass House Mountains National Park. Areas within this park are of traditional and contemporary cultural significance for both of our groups who have an active role in looking after the values for future generations.
We hope you will enjoy your visit. Please respect our culture and these sacred places and refrain from climbing Mount Beerwah."
There rest was as follows:
"Welcome to Mount Beerwah
Jinibara people and Kabi Kabi people welcome you to the Glass House Mountains National Park. Areas within this park are of traditional and contemporary cultural significance for both of our groups who have an active role in looking after the values for future generations.
We hope you will enjoy your visit. Please respect our culture and these sacred places and refrain from climbing Mount Beerwah."
"Mount Beerwah view and day-use area walk
Take a short 100m stroll from the carpark to the grassed day-use area near the base of Mount Beerwah. This is the perfect spot to view the Organ Pipes, a striking geological feature on Mount Beerwah's north face.
Only well-prepared climbers should consider undertaking the summit route, as it is not a formed walking track."
Take a short 100m stroll from the carpark to the grassed day-use area near the base of Mount Beerwah. This is the perfect spot to view the Organ Pipes, a striking geological feature on Mount Beerwah's north face.
Only well-prepared climbers should consider undertaking the summit route, as it is not a formed walking track."
I followed a very short trail to the left of the fenced walkway (which I assume as also just 100m) and found myself as the grassed picnic area at the base of Mount Beerwah, while my Wife remained in the car.
I wandered up to the dual signs on the left for a read. WARNING: Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander readers are warned that the following contains images of deceased persons.
"Mount Beerwah, Glass House Mountains National Park
Jinibara People, the Traditional Owners and determined Native Title holders for most of the Glass House Mountains, including Mount Beerwah, welcome you to this beautiful area.
I learnt about these mountains from my grandfather, Willie MacKenzie-whose Aboriginal name was Gaiarbau- an initiated man of the Dungidau clan of the Jinibara People.
"Jini" literally means "lawyer vine" and "bara" means "people"- we are the people of the lawyer vine country. Our people consist of four local clans: Dungidau; Dal'la; Nalbo and Garumngar. We also identify as the fern people-as seen in Gaiarbau's painted chest markings of the tree fern leaf.
These tree ferns are seen in the hills and valleys of our country.
I ask that you take time today to think of my people, my ancestors who lived here long before Captain Cook sailed past these mountains and named them.
I take this opportunity to welcome you to my country." - Ken Murphy
Jinibara People, the Traditional Owners and determined Native Title holders for most of the Glass House Mountains, including Mount Beerwah, welcome you to this beautiful area.
I learnt about these mountains from my grandfather, Willie MacKenzie-whose Aboriginal name was Gaiarbau- an initiated man of the Dungidau clan of the Jinibara People.
"Jini" literally means "lawyer vine" and "bara" means "people"- we are the people of the lawyer vine country. Our people consist of four local clans: Dungidau; Dal'la; Nalbo and Garumngar. We also identify as the fern people-as seen in Gaiarbau's painted chest markings of the tree fern leaf.
These tree ferns are seen in the hills and valleys of our country.
I ask that you take time today to think of my people, my ancestors who lived here long before Captain Cook sailed past these mountains and named them.
I take this opportunity to welcome you to my country." - Ken Murphy
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| Photo of Gaiarbau circa 1957 |
"Beerwah-our ancestral mother
According to Jinibara lore and custom, Beerwah is our ancestral mother. Beerwah is pregnant, and her family is all around her. Tibrogargan is the father of the family with his faithful dingo, Ngungun, lying at his feet. Around the parents are children- the oldest Coonowrin, the youngest now known as Wild Horse Mountain (the Jinibara name has been lost), Beerburrum, Coochin, Elimbah, Tibberoowuccum, Miketeebumulgrai, and Tunbubudla.
Beerwah is a "special women's place", chosen by Jinibara women as a place of refuge-a birthing place."
According to Jinibara lore and custom, Beerwah is our ancestral mother. Beerwah is pregnant, and her family is all around her. Tibrogargan is the father of the family with his faithful dingo, Ngungun, lying at his feet. Around the parents are children- the oldest Coonowrin, the youngest now known as Wild Horse Mountain (the Jinibara name has been lost), Beerburrum, Coochin, Elimbah, Tibberoowuccum, Miketeebumulgrai, and Tunbubudla.
Beerwah is a "special women's place", chosen by Jinibara women as a place of refuge-a birthing place."
"Respecting sacredness
As there is nothing more important for a mother giving birth, Jinibara People are taught to respect and protect this deeply spiritual place. Our lore and custom teaches us not to climb this mountain out of respect for its great sacredness. Aboriginal people do not climb these mountains out of respect to Jinibara. We ask visitors to refrain from climbing them also."
As there is nothing more important for a mother giving birth, Jinibara People are taught to respect and protect this deeply spiritual place. Our lore and custom teaches us not to climb this mountain out of respect for its great sacredness. Aboriginal people do not climb these mountains out of respect to Jinibara. We ask visitors to refrain from climbing them also."
Also written on the signs was 'a sacred dreaming story' the same one I previously shared that I read atop the Mountain View cafe.
I wandered up to the start of the summit walk, looking for any indication of a 1km base walk, but all that was there was additional signage about the sacredness of Beerwah and once again asking not to climb. 'Maybe the site had a typo and meant 100m and not 1km' I thought, searching around on Google Maps, with no indication of a base walk.
My mind took be back to the suspect man making his way along the road towards Mount Beerwah, and with nothing in sight I made my way back to the car to my Wife.
My mind took be back to the suspect man making his way along the road towards Mount Beerwah, and with nothing in sight I made my way back to the car to my Wife.
We did a loop of the carpark and began out the gravel road just as another car way arriving as a wave of dust blew over the car. I kept an eye out for the lone man walking, before pulling over to take some photos of the spectacular Mount Coonowrin.
As we began driving away, I noticed a waterhole on a property with Mount Coonowrin behind it.
"Hey, that's the water hole in Black Snow!" I yelled as we passed, but by the time I could pull over again, it was gone from view.
"Hey, that's the water hole in Black Snow!" I yelled as we passed, but by the time I could pull over again, it was gone from view.
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| Still image from Season 2 of 'Black Snow' |
We set our map towards Mount Ngungun now, but while driving along the way I noticed a signpost heading towards Mount Coonowrin viewing point, turning up a road past some far properties, we drove to the end, and the road just ended at someone's property. I turned around driving back down the road, pulling up on the grass to get some photos from this location.
We headed to Mount Ngungun, as we arrived we found the only walk here was the summit walk.
"Just do it so you don't regret it." My wife insisted, when I told her I didn't want her to just to have to sit waiting in the car, not knowing how long a summit walk would take.
We read a sign together, as I handed my Wife the keys and decided to speedily tackle the summit walk.
"Ngungun trailhead
Standing tall at 253m above sea level, Mount Ngungun is a remnant of volcanic activity 27 to 26 million years ago. Like many Glass House Mountain peaks, it began as magma (molten rock) that cooled beneath the ground surface forming hard, intrusive plugs. Over millions of years, erosion has worn away the surrounding softer, sandstone rock, exposing the magnificent mountains."
"Bushwalk
Grade 4 walking track: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep.
2.8km return; allow 2hr.
Walk details: Begin your walk in the open forest with a fern understorey. As you move up the track, enjoy the view of Mount Tibrogargan to the south. Half way along, the track passes below a small rock overhang- a good place to catch your breath!
Watch the vegetation change as you move up the mountain, through drier eucalypt forests and on to the rocky summit. When you reach the top, take in the breathtaking surrounding landscape before descending carefully back down the walking track."
"Just do it so you don't regret it." My wife insisted, when I told her I didn't want her to just to have to sit waiting in the car, not knowing how long a summit walk would take.
We read a sign together, as I handed my Wife the keys and decided to speedily tackle the summit walk.
"Ngungun trailhead
Standing tall at 253m above sea level, Mount Ngungun is a remnant of volcanic activity 27 to 26 million years ago. Like many Glass House Mountain peaks, it began as magma (molten rock) that cooled beneath the ground surface forming hard, intrusive plugs. Over millions of years, erosion has worn away the surrounding softer, sandstone rock, exposing the magnificent mountains."
"Bushwalk
Grade 4 walking track: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep.
2.8km return; allow 2hr.
Walk details: Begin your walk in the open forest with a fern understorey. As you move up the track, enjoy the view of Mount Tibrogargan to the south. Half way along, the track passes below a small rock overhang- a good place to catch your breath!
Watch the vegetation change as you move up the mountain, through drier eucalypt forests and on to the rocky summit. When you reach the top, take in the breathtaking surrounding landscape before descending carefully back down the walking track."
I plunged straight into the walk with a fast pace (making up for the days earlier sonically slow pace), I charged uphill relentlessly determined to reach the summit as fast as possible, feeling the guilt of my Wife waiting back at the car.
I soon reached the 'rock overhang' described, though I would have called it a shallow cave. There was a couple here, taking selfies in front of it, so I continued up a little, so I was a bit higher above them to get a photo without them in it, then continued a little further, before stopping for a breather and to finish the last of the water in my water bottle.
Soon that couple shuffled on by me, but I knew I had to let my heart rate cool down, and once I had caught my breath I set off again, soon overtaking them as I marched up the mountain.
I knew I was approaching the top when the trees were thinning and grass trees began to dominate the landscape. 'Am I really there already?' I thought, shocked at how quickly I had made it to the stop.
There were a large group of people sitting around the top, but the summit seemed to continue over on my left, where I saw a young man and maybe his grandmother making their way along that direction too, and I headed that way, carefully crossing the uneven, rocky top as the wind gusted vigourously.
A large gust came as I passed these people, almost blowing my hat and my sunglasses that were resting on the brim of my hat off. I stopped it in time, but decided to rest the sunglasses onto the neck of my T-shirt, figuring if my hat blew off, I could catch it in time, but if the glasses flung off, they would get damaged on the rock.
I walked to the very tip of the highest part of the mountain looking out over Coonowrin and Beerwah.
Looking out the other direction was a view of some of the other mountains,
I took a shot along the top, to show the thin, rocky outcrop on top of the mountain, where the majority of the people who had reached the summit were sitting, taking in the views.
As I went to walk back the young lad and the older lady passed me. "Spectacular views." I commented to the young lad, while I noticed the lady was wearing a broad rim hat with a drawstring that she could tighten so that the hat could not blow away. "That's what I need." I commented to her, balancing along the top holding my hat on my head with one hand while the gusting wind attempted to blow it off.
I made my way back to the trail, and headed back down the mountain, very surprised that I had completed it so quickly. I raced down the mountain at double the speed I had ascended, and in no time was opening the car door and jumping back into the driver's seat. We quickly snacked on some sea salt and rosemary macadamia's before heading back towards Maleny, heading to Baroon Pocket Dam (North Maleny side) for a light exploration before ending our day.
However, driving along the road back I saw a sign of an Aboriginal Heritage site, pulling over to have a look, we learned we were at:
"Little Rocky Creek Grinding Grooves
Little Rocky Creek is an important place for the Gubbi Gubbi people with grinding groves made by the many generations who have loved on and looked after this land.
The sandstone bed in this creek tells us many things about the past.
It is part of the Landsborough Sandstones laid down over 200 million years ago following a time of intense volcanic activity. Over a long period small areas of the sediments warped and twisted making outcrops such as these.
The mix of water and the sandstone bed make this the perfect place for grinding tools such as axe heads, spear heads and cutting stones. We can see many of these grooves in the rock.
The rock also provided a natural bridge to cross the creek when this was the route between Brisbane and Gympie Goldfields in the mid 1800's. The exposed rock contains marks made by the wheel of the famous Cobb & Co coaches making that trip."
However, driving along the road back I saw a sign of an Aboriginal Heritage site, pulling over to have a look, we learned we were at:
"Little Rocky Creek Grinding Grooves
Little Rocky Creek is an important place for the Gubbi Gubbi people with grinding groves made by the many generations who have loved on and looked after this land.
The sandstone bed in this creek tells us many things about the past.
It is part of the Landsborough Sandstones laid down over 200 million years ago following a time of intense volcanic activity. Over a long period small areas of the sediments warped and twisted making outcrops such as these.
The mix of water and the sandstone bed make this the perfect place for grinding tools such as axe heads, spear heads and cutting stones. We can see many of these grooves in the rock.
The rock also provided a natural bridge to cross the creek when this was the route between Brisbane and Gympie Goldfields in the mid 1800's. The exposed rock contains marks made by the wheel of the famous Cobb & Co coaches making that trip."
It was a short walk to the stone outcrop by the little creek, and we soon found the groves talked about above, like giant bear claw marks in the stone.
I noticed a sign, overgrown in the bushes, closer towards the road, and I wandered over to read it.
"Aboriginal axe-grinding grooves
This area contains pavements of sandstone with numerous grooves produced by Aboriginal people when sharpening axes. Hard volcanic rock was selected and shapes before being ground to an edge on the soft sandstone. The sharpened stone was finally bound to hafts of wood or vine.
These grooves are found throughout Queensland on sandstone outcrops near creeks. Water was used to wash away stone 'flour' produced in grinding.
Stone axes were important status items. They were exchanged throughout Australia for weapons, shell and native 'tobacco'. They were used to cut climbing footholds, to fell trees and to open tree hollows for native honey and to extract possums.
Aboriginal cultural heritage places are protected under Queensland law."
"Aboriginal axe-grinding grooves
This area contains pavements of sandstone with numerous grooves produced by Aboriginal people when sharpening axes. Hard volcanic rock was selected and shapes before being ground to an edge on the soft sandstone. The sharpened stone was finally bound to hafts of wood or vine.
These grooves are found throughout Queensland on sandstone outcrops near creeks. Water was used to wash away stone 'flour' produced in grinding.
Stone axes were important status items. They were exchanged throughout Australia for weapons, shell and native 'tobacco'. They were used to cut climbing footholds, to fell trees and to open tree hollows for native honey and to extract possums.
Aboriginal cultural heritage places are protected under Queensland law."
We wandered to another section along to creek to see if we could find any more, before returning to the car and continuing on our way towards Baroon Pocket Dam.
It was another lovely drive through the area, and I was becoming very familiar with the roads around Maleny and Landsborough as we passed the turn off towards Gardeners Falls (that itch left unscratched for me).
It was another lovely drive through the area, and I was becoming very familiar with the roads around Maleny and Landsborough as we passed the turn off towards Gardeners Falls (that itch left unscratched for me).
We soon arrived at Baroon Pocket Dam, wandering down to the shore to sit on the grass and snack on some macadamias while we watched a family and their young kid's fish.
After an exhaustive day out my Wife was done, so we finally returned back to our accommodation. While trying to find something to eat we struggled to find anywhere that was open, opting to just grab Thai food from the restaurant on the corner (Sukhothai Maleny), just a short walk down a hill from where we were staying. I opted for the Chef's special 'Chilly Ginger Duck'.
I wandered down to make our order, and they said it would be about a half an hour wait, so I returned up to the accommodation, where I sat out, looking over my view with my Wife, eventually she got tired and went inside to rest on the bed.
I watched the sun set and hadn't received a call about my order so decided to wander back to the restaurant.
There was still a bit of a wait, so I took a seat there for about 10 minutes before wandering back up with our orders. The portion sizes were huge and neither of us could finish our meals.
We decided to make the most of the extra paid for the hot-tub and again hopped in for a lukewarm bath. Eventually my Wife decided to get out so I cranked the hot water and ran a proper hot tub. My thigh muscles began to cramp from the way of walking, but the pressure from the pumps did help with that.
I soaked until my skin went like a prune.
I hopped out, and we spent our last night at Maleny Views Motel.
The next morning, we sat having a coffee together outside, absorbing the last views over the Upper Mooloolah Nature Refuge and Riverdell Pastures farm (according to what that area is labelled on Google Maps).
I wandered down to make our order, and they said it would be about a half an hour wait, so I returned up to the accommodation, where I sat out, looking over my view with my Wife, eventually she got tired and went inside to rest on the bed.
I watched the sun set and hadn't received a call about my order so decided to wander back to the restaurant.
There was still a bit of a wait, so I took a seat there for about 10 minutes before wandering back up with our orders. The portion sizes were huge and neither of us could finish our meals.
We decided to make the most of the extra paid for the hot-tub and again hopped in for a lukewarm bath. Eventually my Wife decided to get out so I cranked the hot water and ran a proper hot tub. My thigh muscles began to cramp from the way of walking, but the pressure from the pumps did help with that.
I soaked until my skin went like a prune.
I hopped out, and we spent our last night at Maleny Views Motel.
The next morning, we sat having a coffee together outside, absorbing the last views over the Upper Mooloolah Nature Refuge and Riverdell Pastures farm (according to what that area is labelled on Google Maps).
We set of now on a long drive south, our stop over for the night being at Port Macquarie, back in New South Wales. We had a stop in at the 'Cobra Chilli' store in Mudgeeraba in the Gold Coast. The man who was running the shop offered us samples of a bunch of chilli sauces. I asked for the hottest he had, which was the 'Black Harvest Chilli Sauce Super Extreme With 30% Choc Reaper', I bought a bottle of that as well as 'Island Fire Chilli Sauce Ultra Hot' which was a more manageable heat for my wife. We also purchased a 'Rosella chutney' which, once we returned home, we used it to coat melted Brie cheese with, and it tasted delicious.
While driving through the Gold Coast, I received a call offering me a change of job at my current workplace, moving me back into the world of 'Bush Regeneration' work, which I use to do many years ago, another big change occurring in my life!
Our next stop was in Grafton as we got hungry for lunch (as well as tired and in need of a coffee), the lovely farmland and beautiful rivers around here were beautiful and made the drive very scenic.
We set our path to Grafton, planning to get Hungry Jacks for lunch and coffee, but as we pulled in their was a Subway right there too, so we grabbed that for lunch instead as I wasn't feeling like richness of that sort of takeaway, after eating our sub sandwiches, we headed to Hungry Jacks, and got a coffee for the road, with still about a 2 and a half hour drive to go.
We set our path to Grafton, planning to get Hungry Jacks for lunch and coffee, but as we pulled in their was a Subway right there too, so we grabbed that for lunch instead as I wasn't feeling like richness of that sort of takeaway, after eating our sub sandwiches, we headed to Hungry Jacks, and got a coffee for the road, with still about a 2 and a half hour drive to go.
After that massive drive (about 7 and a half hours!) we arrived at our accommodation at the Port Macquarie NRMA Breakwall Holiday Park. We picked up our key, moving stuff into our room and had a very short search for dinner, as the first restaurant I clicked on to check out on Google Maps was called 'Flare', a 12 minute walk from the holiday park. But I instantly wanted to go as I saw on the menu: 'Hot Ones Tasting Plate' 6 wing pieces of increasing heat levels, featuring sauces from 'Hot Ones' on YouTube.
We headed there, and I ordered that and some jalapeno poppers as an entree while my Wife ordered some loaded fries.
I also had a look at the drinks available on tap, deciding to get a 'Whey Stout'.
We headed there, and I ordered that and some jalapeno poppers as an entree while my Wife ordered some loaded fries.
I also had a look at the drinks available on tap, deciding to get a 'Whey Stout'.
The wings arrived, the first three were made in the restaurant, and were tasty, but easily manageable. Sauce 4 was the famed 'Da Bomb: Beyond Insanity' famous from the Hot Ones show with a rating of 135,600 Scoville Heat Units. I was surprised that it wasn't as bad as they had made out, even the flavour wasn't too bad.
Next up was Blair's Ultra Death Sauce, with a heat rating of 1.1 million to 1.2 million Scoville Heat Units. Again, I found this not too bad and actually found the flavour quite nice.
Next up was Blair's Ultra Death Sauce, with a heat rating of 1.1 million to 1.2 million Scoville Heat Units. Again, I found this not too bad and actually found the flavour quite nice.
The final wing featured 'Scorpion Strike on Steroids' and I had actually tried a pizza challenge with this sauce on it before and only managed two slices (and I was a lot younger). I hated it now as much as I hated it then. The flavour I found vile and the heat and atrocious painful burn with a heat rating of 2.25 million Scoville Heat Units.
I finished the wings and had to cool my mouth down with jalapeno poppers and some of my Wife's loaded fries (which we topped with pickled jalapenos).
I finished the wings and had to cool my mouth down with jalapeno poppers and some of my Wife's loaded fries (which we topped with pickled jalapenos).
The girl who had served it up was shocked to see I had calmly eaten them all, saying people usually quit, break down crying or vomit.
She was so shocked she mentioned they had another chilli sauce that was meant to be 'strawberry flavoured' but it was too hot for most people to try and asked if I would sample it for her. I agreed and she brought out a bottle of 'Blair's Crystal Death'. I had a tase, and it was hot, but with a strong strawberry flavour.
She was so shocked she mentioned they had another chilli sauce that was meant to be 'strawberry flavoured' but it was too hot for most people to try and asked if I would sample it for her. I agreed and she brought out a bottle of 'Blair's Crystal Death'. I had a tase, and it was hot, but with a strong strawberry flavour.
We headed back to the park to our room to get some sleep, but I tossed and turned all night. That Scorpion Strike on Steroids sauce not wanting to digest. Eventually, around midnight, I couldn't keep it down and had to go to the bathroom to begin throwing up, and it felt as hot and tasted just as awful on its way back up.
Finally, when it was all out. I flushed the toilet, apologised to my Wife for the noise, and crawled into bed to get some sleep.
Finally, when it was all out. I flushed the toilet, apologised to my Wife for the noise, and crawled into bed to get some sleep.
The following morning, we went for a walk to the painted breakwall, which we followed along towards the cafe 'Bloom PMQ'.
We stopped at the Port Macquarie Jetty, where a sign informed us that we were on Birpai Country, and called the area 'Yii Birrbay Barray'.
I was still feeling rough, from my stomach burning and late-night session of vomiting, so I only wanted my latte.
My Wife got a hot matcha latte and a bowl of Granola, halfway through my coffee I need to retreat to the bathroom where I apparently 'spent too much time'. After coming out and feeling a bit better my Wife asked if I wanted to finish her Granola which I did, and that also helped me feel better.
My Wife got a hot matcha latte and a bowl of Granola, halfway through my coffee I need to retreat to the bathroom where I apparently 'spent too much time'. After coming out and feeling a bit better my Wife asked if I wanted to finish her Granola which I did, and that also helped me feel better.
We walked back along the water, a little more awake this time, and I was able to take in and appreciate some of the art that had been painted on the rocks along there.
We returned to our room, packed our stuff, left our room key in the drop off spot and began the 2 and a half hour drive south towards Anna Bay, just north of Newcastle, where we were going to the Irukandji Shark & Ray Encounters aquarium and had booked in the Zebra Shark Encounter.
I began to get hungry along the we, Google Mapping for cafes along the way and choosing the one closest to the aquarium, as we arrived it turned out to be a service station (very misleading google!)
The coffee machine was out of order, and the only food available were pies, so I grabbed a jalapeno meat pie which tasted pretty old, but other than that it was ok, as we rushed to get to the aquarium on time as my Wife was stressing about being late.
The coffee machine was out of order, and the only food available were pies, so I grabbed a jalapeno meat pie which tasted pretty old, but other than that it was ok, as we rushed to get to the aquarium on time as my Wife was stressing about being late.
We applied some 'reef safe' sunscreen and entered into the aquarium facility. We were greeted by an older man, who sounded like he had a Kiwi (New Zealand) accent.
He explained about our encounter, which we had booked for 11.50am, he stopped and then looked up at us.
"Do you have a lot of time?" He asked. We were confused.
"Like, you're not in a hurry to get anywhere?" He continued.
We weren't, but we did have an almost 4 hour drive home after our encounter, but we just simply answered that we were in no hurry.
"I'm going to start you off with the ray encounter." He told us, saying that we will love it.
We were shocked, because we had only paid for the Zebra Shark encounter, which was $106.00 each, and the ray encounter was $101.00 each.
We weren't going to complain, and we watched a little safety video and went around the side to be fitted into wetsuits.
As my Wife was pregnant, she opted for a bigger suit, but even that was too tight, and she had to then get an even bigger one.
Mine was too tight too, and the zip kept undoing at the back, so I swapped to a bigger one and that still came undone, so I had to go another size up.
"Well, that made me feel fat." I joked to her, as we entered and waited for our ray encounter which was signified by lanyards we wore around our necks.
Soon a guy came over, and we hopped into the water, sitting down and he began a talk about the rays. While they swam around and we patted them, and they went over our feet and laps.
He talked about how the skin of rains was made of mucus, and that it also had healing and antimicrobial properties.
He also talked about how intelligent they are, and that they even knew their own names, and that Manta Ray's had passed the 'Mirror Test'. He also talked about the perceived fear of them, asking if we knew why.
"Steven Irwin." We both responded, referencing the death of famous Australian Crocodile Hunter (who's Zoo we had visited on this trip!)
He explained about our encounter, which we had booked for 11.50am, he stopped and then looked up at us.
"Do you have a lot of time?" He asked. We were confused.
"Like, you're not in a hurry to get anywhere?" He continued.
We weren't, but we did have an almost 4 hour drive home after our encounter, but we just simply answered that we were in no hurry.
"I'm going to start you off with the ray encounter." He told us, saying that we will love it.
We were shocked, because we had only paid for the Zebra Shark encounter, which was $106.00 each, and the ray encounter was $101.00 each.
We weren't going to complain, and we watched a little safety video and went around the side to be fitted into wetsuits.
As my Wife was pregnant, she opted for a bigger suit, but even that was too tight, and she had to then get an even bigger one.
Mine was too tight too, and the zip kept undoing at the back, so I swapped to a bigger one and that still came undone, so I had to go another size up.
"Well, that made me feel fat." I joked to her, as we entered and waited for our ray encounter which was signified by lanyards we wore around our necks.
Soon a guy came over, and we hopped into the water, sitting down and he began a talk about the rays. While they swam around and we patted them, and they went over our feet and laps.
He talked about how the skin of rains was made of mucus, and that it also had healing and antimicrobial properties.
He also talked about how intelligent they are, and that they even knew their own names, and that Manta Ray's had passed the 'Mirror Test'. He also talked about the perceived fear of them, asking if we knew why.
"Steven Irwin." We both responded, referencing the death of famous Australian Crocodile Hunter (who's Zoo we had visited on this trip!)
He spoke about the harm that had done towards the ray species, very unfairly, taking about how most sting rays don't want to sting, as it can take so long to grow back and leave them defenseless to sharks.
It was a really cool experience; we hopped out of the water for a bit as he went to collect some food and we were able to go back in and feed the rays. I had actually been dubious and did have a little fear about them when he said we were going to have the experience, but I actually left with great respect and love of rays, they were like little slimy water dogs and are actually cute and cool animals.
As we finished the older man approached us, apologising, as there had been some sort of double booking or something, and that he was going to move our zebra shark encounter until later and that he was going to give us the reef shark encounter (which should have been $131 each!).
He went to hand us a snorkel and a goggle and my Wife protested saying that she 'didn't want to snorkel' be he assured us it was a standing thing, and the goggles were just to be able to look under the water.
He went to hand us a snorkel and a goggle and my Wife protested saying that she 'didn't want to snorkel' be he assured us it was a standing thing, and the goggles were just to be able to look under the water.
We couldn't complain, 3 encounters for the price of one! But we were going to be getting home very late...
We made our way to the shallows encounter zone which we sat in patting numerous fish and sharks while we waited for both our shark encounters.
We went in for our reef shark encounter when it was time, and the reef sharks zipped around, and large Tawny nurse sharks also swam nearby our feet. My Wife scolded me for forgetting to pack my waterproof GoPro, but we decided it was better to just actually experience it anyway rather than focusing on trying to record everything.
It was a long wait after this until our zebra shark encounter, or maybe it just felt long because we had been at the aquarium all day. Finally, we had our encounter with the zebra shark, and the lady doing the talk reminded me of 'Louise Belcher' from Bob's Burgers the cartoon show, while proudly referring to herself as a crazy shark lady.
We finished up, headed back out to change out of our wetsuits, stinking like fish after spending the whole day virtually in water touching sea animals, both starving having both only had one thing each to all day. We headed to the nearest McDonald's in Williamtown (we would have preferred to get Hungry Jack's, but it added 30 minutes onto and already long drive). It was a 20 minute drive to McDonald's from the Irukandji aquarium and we arrived there just before 4:50pm, getting a cheeseburger and large fries each, I grabbed a McDonald's latte. I ate my cheeseburger (and the pickles from my Wife's burger) and began driving and we shared the fries as my Wife would eat one, then feed me one. As she said she was shocked by how tiny and shit McDonald's cheeseburgers were, "and expensive" she added.
We drove for over 3 hours, stopping in at a local Subway to grab dinner, (we only ate half a footlong each, saving the second half for lunch the following day as we were too tired to eat much.) We greeted Orla, our cute dog who was thrilled to see us, and we were now home from our road trip, back to life, back to work, with my Hematology appointment coming up to discuss my blood results...
When that day came, I stressed all day, feeling like the news would be bad. I went to Wollongong Hospital, feeling PTSD from being in the halls once more. The armpits of my shirt were drenched in sweat, and I was sitting waiting in the waiting room, with my leg vigorously shaking nervously.
Soon my original cancer doctor saw me, and he said my results seemed ok, and nothing to worry about. I asked about my enlarged blood cells, and he told me it was strange, but other than that my results were pretty much the same as last year but did mention that he couldn't say that it "wouldn't be something in the future." Which made any reassurances I felt fade away instantly. He schedules me in for 3 monthly blood tests and said he would see me again in a year.
The one line stuck with me, and I became convinced something was wrong with me, that I was going to die.
I vowed to stop drinking alcohol, was going to try to eat healthier and exercise more but became too sure I was dying that I had restless sleep for nights on end, I became fixated on random aches and pains in my body, and random hot flushes or cold chills, bouts of dizziness and little cramps I felt in my thighs.
I started finding things that synchronized. Such as the fact that before I was diagnosed last time, I had hurt my ankle rock climbing. This time I had recently hurt my wrist at the same bouldering gym. The job change as well, as last time I was diagnosed I had left my job to work for Sydney Trains, only to return to my old place of work again, the throwing up eating the hot wings too, as I had done a Spicy Burger challenge with my friend Tristan which had caused me to throw up. I convinced myself that these repeating factors were evidence of my impending doom.
I just didn't want to be sick, and go through it all again, but most of all I didn't want to die.
I didn't want to leave my child, my daughter... to be without a father.
And I have felt like this since, including up until the end of writing this long blog post.
All I can do now is wait. Wait and hope that my test in December is fine, and the one after that is fine, and I have to try and convince myself to not stress, and to live in the moment. Because in the end life, and death, is out of our control...
I vowed to stop drinking alcohol, was going to try to eat healthier and exercise more but became too sure I was dying that I had restless sleep for nights on end, I became fixated on random aches and pains in my body, and random hot flushes or cold chills, bouts of dizziness and little cramps I felt in my thighs.
I started finding things that synchronized. Such as the fact that before I was diagnosed last time, I had hurt my ankle rock climbing. This time I had recently hurt my wrist at the same bouldering gym. The job change as well, as last time I was diagnosed I had left my job to work for Sydney Trains, only to return to my old place of work again, the throwing up eating the hot wings too, as I had done a Spicy Burger challenge with my friend Tristan which had caused me to throw up. I convinced myself that these repeating factors were evidence of my impending doom.
I just didn't want to be sick, and go through it all again, but most of all I didn't want to die.
I didn't want to leave my child, my daughter... to be without a father.
And I have felt like this since, including up until the end of writing this long blog post.
All I can do now is wait. Wait and hope that my test in December is fine, and the one after that is fine, and I have to try and convince myself to not stress, and to live in the moment. Because in the end life, and death, is out of our control...
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Thanks for reading! - Steven
Extra tidbits! - As I mentioned earlier, if you can remember after reading so much, I had done a local explore at Port Kembla on the 6th July 2025, trying to recall memories from my childhood, such a walking along the breakwall, and seeing some pond with trees around filled with thousands of crabs (which I couldn't locate). I had needed the day out, as before this my Wife's Nan had passed away, and as the two were exceptionally close there was a great deal of sadness and grieving. It was hard, her Nan had been perfectly healthy, and it was unexpected, a great shock of someone so present in your lives to no longer be there, someone with such warmth and joy to just be gone. The whole situation was depressing, and I had needed to get outdoors for my own mental health, and thinking about it now, and how fast it went from a life with her so present in our lives, to a life were she was simply not here, probably didn't help with my own mental health reflecting on my current health issues now as I write this, as life is so fragile and can be gone in an instant. I am not special. I am not safe. One day these blogs could just stop being written... But I will continue and explain what I did on my day out, in Port Kembla:
I headed up to Hill 60, looking out over the beach I usually take Orla for a walk along.
I headed down to the creepy underground tunnels that run below, and for some reason was filled with haunting memories of being in a cement tunnel, being attacked or chased by either homeless junkies or some unsavory characters and I actually couldn't discern if it was a weird childhood memory, or some vivid nightmare so intense that it had engrained itself in my brain like a memory, either way I felt chills, but also a sense of wonder at what was underneath, but I was not going to go and explore it myself, though there is probably footage online!
I continued up to the top of the hill, watching all the people paragliding, and looking out over the blue waters towards the island reserves, and down the other side to a wastewater treatment plant, whilst reading some signs along the way that shared the history of Hill 60 and Port Kembla.
"Displacement of the Aboriginal Community
For millennia, Hill 60 was home to the Aboriginal people of the Illawarra. In 1909 Hill 60 was acquired for defense purposes by the Commonwealth Government, however little was done for a substantial period.
Despite living peacefully through World War 1, Aboriginal people living at Hill 60 faced pressure to leave in the late 1920s. This push by Council, disguised as environmental concern, aimed to expand the town of Port Kembla.
In 1923 the Port Kembla Golf club built a nine-hole golf course on the lower slopes where the Aboriginal community was camped. The Aboriginal residents were forced to move higher up the hill where they lived there till the early 1940's.
The Aboriginal community supported by advocates resisted eviction, by the Council. With the onset of economic recession in the 1930s Council ceased its efforts to remove the community having larger concerns to address in the town.
With the eruption of World War II in 1939 the Department of Defence commenced preparations to fortify Hill 60 due to the threat of Japanese invasion.
By 1942 all Aboriginal people were forcibly removed from Hill 60 and to ensure they could not return, their houses were burnt to the ground.
Children and adults living on the Hill were put in the back of army trucks and taken to Bundywallah, near Berry, where they were put to work on a farm.
Following the war much of Hill 60 Aboriginal community returned from the South Coast and were moved onto a camp not far from Hill 60. The Camps were a tent city which had formed during the depression where people of many cultures lived together.
The area gradually reverted to an Aboriginal camp which consisted of families who were removed from Hill 60. This Aboriginal camp known as the "Official Camps" was located on and around the area now known today as Coomaditchie Public Reserve.
The Aboriginal settlement at Coomaditchie again faced eviction by the NSW Housing Commision by 1957. The Community's land rights campaign led to a one-acre Aboriginal Reserve near Coomaditchie Lagoon and six small houses were built however, promises of further housing and land rights never materialised."
"Hill 60: A Bastion of War and Heritage
Welcome to Hill 60, a site of strategic military significance during World War II, now a public reserve rich with history. Acquired by the Commonwealth Government in 1909, this hill was fortified in the 1940a to protect Australia's coastal ports from potential Japanese invasion, with extensive contributions from the local coal and steel industries.
In the wake of the SS Millimumul's sinking in 1941, a detailed defence report highlighted Port Kembla's vulnerabilities, leading to the development of comprehensive coastal defences. Hill 60 was equipped with the Illowra Battery, a part of the robust 'Kembla Fortress' network, which also included the Port Kembla Breakwater Battery and the Drummond Battery at Mt. Drummond. These were interconnected by a new Military Road, ensuring safer access through the inland route, and powered by local electrical mains for heightened operational readiness.
During this period, the local Aboriginal Community faced severe displacement pressures to accommodate military constructions, a painful chapter in their ongoing struggle for land rights. Despite these adversities, they remailed resilient, marking and indelible part of Hill 60's story.
By 1942, Hill 60 emerged as the command centre for the Kembla Fortress, monitored by the 13th Garrison Battalion. The surrounding area, stretching from Lake Illawarra to Tom Thumb Lagoon, was patrolled by troops supported by the local fishing community from Fisherman's Beach.
Despite its formidable defences the fortress saw no military action and was dismantled post-WWII in 1944.
Today, Hill 60 retains a range of preserved military structures, some of which have been repurposed to serve the community. These include Marine Rescue Port Kembla, run by volunteers, operating from a modified WWII lookout tower. The network of tunnels and connecting rooms servicing the two gun positions on Hill 60 remain intact beneath this site, as indicated within the interpretive pavement treatment. The tunnels are currently closed to the public."
For millennia, Hill 60 was home to the Aboriginal people of the Illawarra. In 1909 Hill 60 was acquired for defense purposes by the Commonwealth Government, however little was done for a substantial period.
Despite living peacefully through World War 1, Aboriginal people living at Hill 60 faced pressure to leave in the late 1920s. This push by Council, disguised as environmental concern, aimed to expand the town of Port Kembla.
In 1923 the Port Kembla Golf club built a nine-hole golf course on the lower slopes where the Aboriginal community was camped. The Aboriginal residents were forced to move higher up the hill where they lived there till the early 1940's.
The Aboriginal community supported by advocates resisted eviction, by the Council. With the onset of economic recession in the 1930s Council ceased its efforts to remove the community having larger concerns to address in the town.
With the eruption of World War II in 1939 the Department of Defence commenced preparations to fortify Hill 60 due to the threat of Japanese invasion.
By 1942 all Aboriginal people were forcibly removed from Hill 60 and to ensure they could not return, their houses were burnt to the ground.
Children and adults living on the Hill were put in the back of army trucks and taken to Bundywallah, near Berry, where they were put to work on a farm.
Following the war much of Hill 60 Aboriginal community returned from the South Coast and were moved onto a camp not far from Hill 60. The Camps were a tent city which had formed during the depression where people of many cultures lived together.
The area gradually reverted to an Aboriginal camp which consisted of families who were removed from Hill 60. This Aboriginal camp known as the "Official Camps" was located on and around the area now known today as Coomaditchie Public Reserve.
The Aboriginal settlement at Coomaditchie again faced eviction by the NSW Housing Commision by 1957. The Community's land rights campaign led to a one-acre Aboriginal Reserve near Coomaditchie Lagoon and six small houses were built however, promises of further housing and land rights never materialised."
"Hill 60: A Bastion of War and Heritage
Welcome to Hill 60, a site of strategic military significance during World War II, now a public reserve rich with history. Acquired by the Commonwealth Government in 1909, this hill was fortified in the 1940a to protect Australia's coastal ports from potential Japanese invasion, with extensive contributions from the local coal and steel industries.
In the wake of the SS Millimumul's sinking in 1941, a detailed defence report highlighted Port Kembla's vulnerabilities, leading to the development of comprehensive coastal defences. Hill 60 was equipped with the Illowra Battery, a part of the robust 'Kembla Fortress' network, which also included the Port Kembla Breakwater Battery and the Drummond Battery at Mt. Drummond. These were interconnected by a new Military Road, ensuring safer access through the inland route, and powered by local electrical mains for heightened operational readiness.
During this period, the local Aboriginal Community faced severe displacement pressures to accommodate military constructions, a painful chapter in their ongoing struggle for land rights. Despite these adversities, they remailed resilient, marking and indelible part of Hill 60's story.
By 1942, Hill 60 emerged as the command centre for the Kembla Fortress, monitored by the 13th Garrison Battalion. The surrounding area, stretching from Lake Illawarra to Tom Thumb Lagoon, was patrolled by troops supported by the local fishing community from Fisherman's Beach.
Despite its formidable defences the fortress saw no military action and was dismantled post-WWII in 1944.
Today, Hill 60 retains a range of preserved military structures, some of which have been repurposed to serve the community. These include Marine Rescue Port Kembla, run by volunteers, operating from a modified WWII lookout tower. The network of tunnels and connecting rooms servicing the two gun positions on Hill 60 remain intact beneath this site, as indicated within the interpretive pavement treatment. The tunnels are currently closed to the public."
There was some sort of white bunker thing at the top that you would walk up so I headed to the top of it for a better view of the surrounding area.
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| Looking north towards the breakwall |
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| Five Islands Nature Reserve |
I spotted Fishermans Beach and wondered if there was a way to walk down, so I went for an explore to see if I could find a trail.
I found a dirt trail down on the left side of the parking if you were facing the water, and began following the track along.
I passed one man who was walking back up and soon passed another. Then I came to a split in the path, and stood a while looking, debating which one I thought I should follow first, when I noticed one of the guys who had walked past me on his way up and come back down.
He stood a way back, watching me out of the corner of his eyes. I stood looking at each direction, a little sussed out by him, so decided to stand on my phone waiting to see if he would leave, however he didn't and the whole situation began to feel stressful and I wondered if he was some dodgy character with some marijuana plantation hidden in the bush that we was worried about me finding or something.
"You right mate?!" I ended up saying to him, and he acted all shocked that I was speaking to him.
"You don't know if either of these trails lead to the beach do you.?" I asked, trying to reveal my reason for being in this random trail in the bush.
He acted stupid and said he wasn't sure, and I nodded and decided to get myself out of there and headed back up to the carpark away from the situation.
"You right mate?!" I ended up saying to him, and he acted all shocked that I was speaking to him.
"You don't know if either of these trails lead to the beach do you.?" I asked, trying to reveal my reason for being in this random trail in the bush.
He acted stupid and said he wasn't sure, and I nodded and decided to get myself out of there and headed back up to the carpark away from the situation.
I left Hill 60 and now drove down Gloucester Boulevard parking along Port Kembla north beach and going for an explore over at the Heritage Park before walking across to the Port Kembla Southern Breakwall.
It was all super industrial, and I couldn't help but think back to my favourite childhood video game, Banjo Kazooie, and a specific level within it called 'Rusty Bucket Bay'.
I wondered to myself how long the breakwall was, as there were number painted all along the way, and I wondered if they were the metres in which I was walking, passing by 1160 before reaching the end of the breakwall.
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| Don't tell me what to do! *walks of edge and dies* |
I turned around to walk back, counting how many steps I took in between the painted markers along the way (it was always about 27 to 28 steps) and I could only find a distance on AllTrails which said it was a 2.3km walk, their distance, not mine.
I returned to my car, driving home when I noticed a walk down to Fishermans Beach, which I had been trying to reach before I was interrupted by Mr. Creepy, so I pulled up and went for a quick look before finally return home, with the intention to write a blog post, instead I quickly wrote it up as an 'extra tidbit' as I have done with other little walks or activities and simply attached it on the tail end of a blogpost.
