This blog takes place on Dharug and Gundungurra Country
To read day two, click here.
I awoke in the Metropole on my final day. I hadn't set my alarm to let me self have a little sleep in and rest after two days of bushwalks. This night had been much more pleasant than my first night. Sipping on the bottle of isotonic (electrolyte) drink in between sips of water and doing some stretching had made sure I had a restful night instead of agonising legs cramps like I had experienced my first night.
I sat and read my last few chapters of Odyssey by Stephen Fry before deciding I should head out through Katoomba for breakfast and a coffee. I debated going to the Little Paris Café again, as the coffee there was so good. But after burping up onion and sausage for half the day hiking the day prior I decided I wanted something a bit more mild for breakfast, maybe a chilli pie, I thought, Google mapping local bakeries to see if any offered chilli pies. (For non Australians reading this, chilli pie is a spicy meat pie, not like, chili con carne, aka meat and beans)
However, spicy pies didn't seem to be popular in Katoomba as I couldn't find a single bakery that did them.
I ended up at 'Bang Bowls' café, just getting a light bacon and egg roll and a coffee.
I awoke in the Metropole on my final day. I hadn't set my alarm to let me self have a little sleep in and rest after two days of bushwalks. This night had been much more pleasant than my first night. Sipping on the bottle of isotonic (electrolyte) drink in between sips of water and doing some stretching had made sure I had a restful night instead of agonising legs cramps like I had experienced my first night.
I sat and read my last few chapters of Odyssey by Stephen Fry before deciding I should head out through Katoomba for breakfast and a coffee. I debated going to the Little Paris Café again, as the coffee there was so good. But after burping up onion and sausage for half the day hiking the day prior I decided I wanted something a bit more mild for breakfast, maybe a chilli pie, I thought, Google mapping local bakeries to see if any offered chilli pies. (For non Australians reading this, chilli pie is a spicy meat pie, not like, chili con carne, aka meat and beans)
However, spicy pies didn't seem to be popular in Katoomba as I couldn't find a single bakery that did them.
I ended up at 'Bang Bowls' café, just getting a light bacon and egg roll and a coffee.
It was raining heavier than the previous days, as I made my way through Katoomba Street, back to the hotel, to pack up and check out. I did a few trips down to my car putting my bags in before doing one last walk around the Metropole, including into the games room which I was yet to visit.
I thought that this would be a nice place to spend time with other people, or even come again and stay at as a relaxing holiday when I'm older and not able to do the same level of walking I could currently do (although I would like to improve on that).
Finally I headed to the reception desk to check out.
"Anything planned for you day?" The lady asked me.
"Just more hiking". I responded.
"Sounds fun." She joked to me, looking like she couldn't think of anything worse, and I wondered if that was due to the weather or if she just didn't enjoy it as an activity.
I handed her my keys, wishing her a good day, and hopped into my car, turning the car key on with a fearful look (after my incident on Day 1). Of course, the car started fine, and as I loaded up my Google Maps on my phone (which was in a phone bracket in my car), I noticed the name of a lookout nearby called 'Cahills Lookout' and decided to go for a curiosity drive there before I headed over to begin the Walls Cave walk.
It was a nice rainy drive through the suburbs and I got to see a bit more of where the locals of Katoomba reside. As a tourist visiting these popular spots you sometimes forget people live in these areas, and I wonder how life here compared to where I was living. (Better hikes for sure.)
As I arrived at the parking spot near the lookout I saw that it was a paid parking area, but as it was completely empty I just pulled up, and headed towards the lookout.
"Anything planned for you day?" The lady asked me.
"Just more hiking". I responded.
"Sounds fun." She joked to me, looking like she couldn't think of anything worse, and I wondered if that was due to the weather or if she just didn't enjoy it as an activity.
I handed her my keys, wishing her a good day, and hopped into my car, turning the car key on with a fearful look (after my incident on Day 1). Of course, the car started fine, and as I loaded up my Google Maps on my phone (which was in a phone bracket in my car), I noticed the name of a lookout nearby called 'Cahills Lookout' and decided to go for a curiosity drive there before I headed over to begin the Walls Cave walk.
It was a nice rainy drive through the suburbs and I got to see a bit more of where the locals of Katoomba reside. As a tourist visiting these popular spots you sometimes forget people live in these areas, and I wonder how life here compared to where I was living. (Better hikes for sure.)
As I arrived at the parking spot near the lookout I saw that it was a paid parking area, but as it was completely empty I just pulled up, and headed towards the lookout.
It was so misty out I soon realised I was not going to see anything from a lookout, and wondered why I had thought a lookout in this weather was a good idea. The first lookout (Boards Head Lookout) looked towards and area known as Boars Head, however, like I said, in this weather it was even pointless of me to take a photo.
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| Spectacular |
I continued down towards Cahills Lookout, even though I knew it would be just as pointless. In the centre there was a toposcope, with the little circle pointing the direction of various places with a plaque dedicated to the person it was built for. I wandered to the edge to see if the view from here was anymore visible the Boars Head.
As I made my way back to my car a young couple who had hired out one of those travelling sort of campervans had pulled up and were also heading down to the lookout, which I'm sure on a regular days does actually have a spectacular view. I headed over to a sign to read what I would usually see from here.
"from Cahills Lookout
There are numerous places of interest which are shown on the map and suggestions below provide some options.
The short stroll to Cahills Lookout overlooks the magnificent Megalong Valley with views across to Boars Head and Narrow Neck Plateau. On a clear day you can almost see to Kanangra Walls.
The Peckmans Lookout return bushwalk provides superb views of the natural amphitheatre toward Nellies Glen and the famous Six Foot Track.
If riding is your thing you can travel the Great Blue Mountains Trail on-road to Scenic World, Echo Point and on to Leura. Alternatively ride west to Blackheath - via the Great Blue Mountains Trail, or walk via the Grand Cliff Top Walk via Farnells Road off Narrow Neck Road."
"from Cahills Lookout
There are numerous places of interest which are shown on the map and suggestions below provide some options.
The short stroll to Cahills Lookout overlooks the magnificent Megalong Valley with views across to Boars Head and Narrow Neck Plateau. On a clear day you can almost see to Kanangra Walls.
The Peckmans Lookout return bushwalk provides superb views of the natural amphitheatre toward Nellies Glen and the famous Six Foot Track.
If riding is your thing you can travel the Great Blue Mountains Trail on-road to Scenic World, Echo Point and on to Leura. Alternatively ride west to Blackheath - via the Great Blue Mountains Trail, or walk via the Grand Cliff Top Walk via Farnells Road off Narrow Neck Road."
'Whelp, that was a bust.' I thought, not that the location wasn't great, but with the weather I just visited at the most inopportune time. So I set off back towards Evans Lookout, knowing my way by now, turning right off of Evans Lookout road, down Walls Cave Road, onto a little dirt road (which made me hope the rain wouldn't get heavier causing me to end up bogged and stuck. But I decided to 'risk it for the biscuit', pulling up in the dirt carpark (which wasn't really a carpark and more a place that cars could park).
As I arrived I received a test message reminder of an upcoming appointment with my specialist (cancer doctor). However it was telling me that I was due to see him on the 19th (my birthday).
I called the 'Kinghorn Cancer Centre' to let them know that my appointment had been scheduled for the 21st.
However the receptionist was trying to tell me it was the 19th (which I knew it wasn't because I wouldn't have scheduled an appointment for my birthday). I tried to reschedule it, but my cancer specialist would be on holiday.
"Well that's probably why they rescheduled the appointment." I told the receptionist, validating that I had indeed been told a different date.
We couldn't fit me in on any particular date so I just said that my doctor could just 'call me' for a phone consult, as the appointment wasn't really for anything urgent, it was just to discuss my results for a lung test and CT scan as I had had worse trouble breathing and shortness of breath even since getting covid in Iceland. However my doctor was only really worried about Graft vs Host disease due to my Stem Cell Transplant. However, flash forward to getting that call on my birthday and the discussion was either that it was general fatigue or 'long covid' or that it may be cardiovascular, and I would need to get my heart checked by a cardiologist (the post-cancer fun never ends!)
Anyway, with that all settled I stepped out into the rain, up to a sign at the start of the Walls Cave walk with information about the walk. As it was raining, I quickly snapped a photo as I would 'read it later', usually when transcribing for this blog, and as it was raining, and I was impatiently wanting to begin the walk, so without reading (which I recommend you do not to follow my mistakes), I set off down the track.
"Walls Cave Walking Track
Grade: Medium
Distance: about 2.5 kilometre return, includes some steep sections of steps.
Time: about 45 minutes, allow plenty of time for the return journey.
Walls Cave Walking Track winds down the the heath and hanging swamps to Greaves Creek.
The creek changed course here many, many years ago, leaving a small canyon. The Walls Cave Track passes the canyon via a bridge, to end at Walls Cave. The cave appears to have been eroded out of the sandstone by a swirl of water as it rounds a sharp bend. The track ends at a viewing platform. To help prevent damage to the cave, visitors are not allowed to leave the platform."
I called the 'Kinghorn Cancer Centre' to let them know that my appointment had been scheduled for the 21st.
However the receptionist was trying to tell me it was the 19th (which I knew it wasn't because I wouldn't have scheduled an appointment for my birthday). I tried to reschedule it, but my cancer specialist would be on holiday.
"Well that's probably why they rescheduled the appointment." I told the receptionist, validating that I had indeed been told a different date.
We couldn't fit me in on any particular date so I just said that my doctor could just 'call me' for a phone consult, as the appointment wasn't really for anything urgent, it was just to discuss my results for a lung test and CT scan as I had had worse trouble breathing and shortness of breath even since getting covid in Iceland. However my doctor was only really worried about Graft vs Host disease due to my Stem Cell Transplant. However, flash forward to getting that call on my birthday and the discussion was either that it was general fatigue or 'long covid' or that it may be cardiovascular, and I would need to get my heart checked by a cardiologist (the post-cancer fun never ends!)
Anyway, with that all settled I stepped out into the rain, up to a sign at the start of the Walls Cave walk with information about the walk. As it was raining, I quickly snapped a photo as I would 'read it later', usually when transcribing for this blog, and as it was raining, and I was impatiently wanting to begin the walk, so without reading (which I recommend you do not to follow my mistakes), I set off down the track.
"Walls Cave Walking Track
Grade: Medium
Distance: about 2.5 kilometre return, includes some steep sections of steps.
Time: about 45 minutes, allow plenty of time for the return journey.
Walls Cave Walking Track winds down the the heath and hanging swamps to Greaves Creek.
The creek changed course here many, many years ago, leaving a small canyon. The Walls Cave Track passes the canyon via a bridge, to end at Walls Cave. The cave appears to have been eroded out of the sandstone by a swirl of water as it rounds a sharp bend. The track ends at a viewing platform. To help prevent damage to the cave, visitors are not allowed to leave the platform."
"Cultural Connections
The story of this land are a sequence of time: while we can "know" this land with science and modern map, it is the stories told by countless generations of Indigenous people that sustain the spiritual links necessary to comprehend it.
Walls Cave is one of the places where Australia's Aboriginal people gathered to share their knowledge and ensure their survival in this country.
Aboriginal mean, "people who were here from the beginning". For Australian Aboriginal people, spirituality and the sacred are deeply rooted in the landscape and in their relationship to the environment that sustains them. Their Country is life, mother, direction, nourishment, and spiritual connectedness.
Walls Cave is located in Country with separate sites for Men and Women.
Darug people continue to care for their Country with customs and ceremony. This Darug land and Darug people are one.
Along the ridge, is a special Men's site, while sites closer to the water are the responsibility of Women. When you visit Walls Cave, you are entering a Daruk Women's site: please do not pass the barrier at the platform. You are asked not to the off the track to the cave, access to the Special Area is restricted to the walking track.
Stories about law, ritual, celestial and terrestrial landscape are passed down through generations. Stories belong to a clan or a tribe, so Elders appoint a skillful and knowledgeable storyteller as their custodian. Stories teach ways to achieve harmony in relationships with other and within the community."
The story of this land are a sequence of time: while we can "know" this land with science and modern map, it is the stories told by countless generations of Indigenous people that sustain the spiritual links necessary to comprehend it.
Walls Cave is one of the places where Australia's Aboriginal people gathered to share their knowledge and ensure their survival in this country.
Aboriginal mean, "people who were here from the beginning". For Australian Aboriginal people, spirituality and the sacred are deeply rooted in the landscape and in their relationship to the environment that sustains them. Their Country is life, mother, direction, nourishment, and spiritual connectedness.
Walls Cave is located in Country with separate sites for Men and Women.
Darug people continue to care for their Country with customs and ceremony. This Darug land and Darug people are one.
Along the ridge, is a special Men's site, while sites closer to the water are the responsibility of Women. When you visit Walls Cave, you are entering a Daruk Women's site: please do not pass the barrier at the platform. You are asked not to the off the track to the cave, access to the Special Area is restricted to the walking track.
Stories about law, ritual, celestial and terrestrial landscape are passed down through generations. Stories belong to a clan or a tribe, so Elders appoint a skillful and knowledgeable storyteller as their custodian. Stories teach ways to achieve harmony in relationships with other and within the community."
As I came to a flat section after heading down a bunch of stairs, I stopped to listen to the nature sounds around me. The rustling wind in the leaves, the birds chirping, and in particular, the magpies singing up in a tree on my right, my absolute favourite bird song. I never tire of listening to them.
I continued downhill through the trees until the dropped away and the surrounding heathland opened up around me, as I stood upon a hill overlooking the valley.
My brain somehow formed a connection between where I was, and what I was seeing, and an area in the video game 'Red Dead Redemption 2' (an area in Grizzlies East near O'Creagh's Run). Now that might be sad that beautiful nature made me think of a video game, but I also play video games and they inspire me sometimes to get out into beautiful nature, almost the same way great art or literature can.
I could see the trail ahead was heading down and I could see what looked like a trail heading up a little hill in front of me and assumed that would be the way I would be going. But as I continued down, I came to a divide in the track, with a very faded sign letting me know Walls Cave was down on my right, not the trail up the hill (which I left unexplored and now curiously wonder what was up that trail).
As I progressed further down into the valley, I was sheltered from the misty rainy spray, and yet all the foliage and greenery around me seemed like it was more wet than the area up higher.
I came to a section where there was a trail through the scrub heading off on my right from the actual trail, I thought about following it in, the curiosity of where it led niggling away at me. But I continued on down the trail, under a tree on a diagonal angle (either fallen or still alive, I couldn't see as the top was hidden somewhere above a large boulder).
I followed the stairs down, the sides lined with bright green ferns, until I reached a small bridge with a warning sign saying, "One person at a time on bridge."
As I headed over the bridge, I stopped to look left, through a cave. The water flowed through here into another section and I wondered if on hot days people swam through here into that other section. As curious as I was to see the area, I wasn't about to go for a swim with a day of walking planned (that's a good way to chafe).
Continuing on along the steppingstones through the creek, I had a feeling I was close to the end on this short walk as I passed a large rock in the middle of the creek with a rusty metal part sitting on top of it. I wondered what it was, thinking that to me it looked like a handle you'd crank to spin something (though I have no idea what it was).
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| If you think you can identify what this is, leave a comment! |
After crossing the stones, I continued up another set of steps, alone a thin trail past a cliff wall, and entered into the large overhanging cliff that was 'Wall's Cave'.
The walk took you into a built 'viewing platform' which caged you in as to not enter the cave. Right in front of me, outside of this platform was the remains of a campfire that someone had lit in the middle.
Now, I usually like to follow rules, out of respect, so when it said to stay on the track, I assumed this was to stop nature damage to potential sensitive foliage (as I hadn't read the information about men's and women's places). But with a fire in front of me, and the inside area mostly empty and filled with dirt, I crossed around the area into the middle of the cave for a better view.
Now, I usually like to follow rules, out of respect, so when it said to stay on the track, I assumed this was to stop nature damage to potential sensitive foliage (as I hadn't read the information about men's and women's places). But with a fire in front of me, and the inside area mostly empty and filled with dirt, I crossed around the area into the middle of the cave for a better view.
There was not a lot to see within the actual cave itself and I headed down to the edge of the creek here for a view of the water.
It was a beautiful area, and I imagined myself wading through the water to explore the other side and little islands in it. But I still had other walks to do, and so I began the walk back to the car to head off towards Wentworth to do the Charles Darwin Walk, (as I mentioned in my Day 1 post).
However, when I reached the section of just up from the steppingstones where the little trail had been made through the scrub my curiosity got the better of me and I began my way through the scrub. All the wet branches dampening my clothes as they brushed against me. The surface was very uneven through here, almost like a little recurring rainwater stream had hollowed a trail out, as I carefully stepped and made my way through, all the while wondering if I was going to end up covered in leeches.
I made my way over and down some rocks, getting muddy hands as I held on to decaying logs and branches sticking out of the mud to clamber over.
When I finally reached the bottom, the area opened up and I found myself at the opposite end of the cave I had been curious about when I had crossed the bridge.
When I finally reached the bottom, the area opened up and I found myself at the opposite end of the cave I had been curious about when I had crossed the bridge.
The water continued around yet another corner and I couldn't see where it went but I could hear the sound of running water. I noticed that the rockface around the edge looked like I would be able to shuffle around to the next edge and potentially be able to see around the corner to see what if looked like.
I balanced on a little ledge, climbing up some rocks until I came to another flat surface where I shimmied along another section, making sure to move slowly and carefully and not take a fall into the water if a piece of rock happened to be slippery. I made it to a large flat area on the other side and standing up I still could not see around the corner, so I got down onto my belly crawling towards the edge, partially leaning over in the hope I would be able to see those hidden sights. However, it only extended my view a metre or so and I could not see the waters end or where the sound of the running water was coming from. I relented, making my way back across, back up through the overgrown manmade trail with the wet branches soaking me once more while small branches smacked me in the face until I returned to the main trail and began the walk back up to my car to set off on my next walk.
As I made my way up some of the rain and mist had lessened and as I looked across the valley, I could see Walls Cave in the distance behind a backdrop of wildflowers.
While continuing uphill, I also noticed a face carved into a termite mound that I hadn't noticed on my way down. My youth of playing Nintendo 64 immediately made me think of 'Mumbo's Mountain' a level in the game 'Banjo Kazooie' and specifically a character named 'Juju'. Why? I don't know why my brain even made that connection, but it did.
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| “We Juju, Mumbo's totem pole. Feed us with nice blue stones” |
As I approached the top it began to rain once more, and I filmed myself exiting from the walking track through a turnstile gate.
Obviously, it wasn't until I got home and began writing my trip up as a walk when I actually read the information board about men's and women's places and the site for the Dharug/Daruk people. I felt an instantly feeling of guilt as I often take photos of these signs to 'save time' and don't actually read them until later on when I might do a blog post about them.
As someone who often tries to be respectful and expects others to as well, I felt like someone who had been very ignorant, and my unintentional ignorance was no excuse.
While people are not perfect, and I know within the bushwalking/hiking community this issue can be divisive with not everyone feeling the same way I do about it, and there's nothing worse than preaching what you don't practice and being a hypocrite. But I put myself on notice and in future will strive to do better.
As someone who often tries to be respectful and expects others to as well, I felt like someone who had been very ignorant, and my unintentional ignorance was no excuse.
While people are not perfect, and I know within the bushwalking/hiking community this issue can be divisive with not everyone feeling the same way I do about it, and there's nothing worse than preaching what you don't practice and being a hypocrite. But I put myself on notice and in future will strive to do better.
I sat in the car out of the rain now, blissfully unaware that I was later going to feel shame, snacking a packet of butter popcorn flavoured crackers I had bought my first night in Katoomba, setting up my GPS to take me to Darwins Walk in Wentworth.
As I made my way back down the Great Western Highway, I quickly pulled in at 'Mountain High Pies' on my left when I saw it as I drove. A quick google of the menu showed they offered no chilli pies, and so I resumed my drive. The GPS took me up Dalrymple Ave, and then wanted me to loop around Page Ave, back onto Dalyrmple Ave and back up the Great Western Highway to get to Darwins Walk, but as I drove through Page Ave a blue signpost stood out to me as I drove, saying it was the beginning of Darwins Walk.
I was very confused but ended up doing a second loop around and pulling up in this street, making me way down to the signpost while in the bushes to the side of me Blue Mountains Council workers were doing bush regeneration work.
As I made my way back down the Great Western Highway, I quickly pulled in at 'Mountain High Pies' on my left when I saw it as I drove. A quick google of the menu showed they offered no chilli pies, and so I resumed my drive. The GPS took me up Dalrymple Ave, and then wanted me to loop around Page Ave, back onto Dalyrmple Ave and back up the Great Western Highway to get to Darwins Walk, but as I drove through Page Ave a blue signpost stood out to me as I drove, saying it was the beginning of Darwins Walk.
I was very confused but ended up doing a second loop around and pulling up in this street, making me way down to the signpost while in the bushes to the side of me Blue Mountains Council workers were doing bush regeneration work.
Now a quick recap for those that didn't read my Day 1 post, I thought I had seen the Darwin Walk on 'Great Australian Walks with Julia Zemiro' on SBS. The episode in question (season 1 episode 6), had featured her tapping on a plaque that I recalled saying 'Darwin walked here'. (At least that was my recollection of what occurred). I also recalled it being along a cliff edge, which is not what this walk was at all, but we'll return to this topic as I continue.
I reached the bottom of the first set of steps, with a sign pointing right towards Wentworth Falls Village and Train Station and left towards Wentworth Falls Picnic Area. I made an assumption that the walk right would lead me up to the area my GPS was trying to take me to, so instead decided to follow the track left.
I had barely begun the leisurely stroll when once more I came to a post, this time pointing right towards 'Falls Road' or continuing on straight to the Picnic Area. I continued straight as I assumed that was the correct way to do the walk, instead of leading to some road, but I wondered to myself if there were many different tracks through this beautiful green area along Jamison Creek.
I noticed a little duck, floating in the creek, just beneath a large fern growing from the bank. It almost looked like it was using it for shelter from the light rain.
While I walked along, I couldn't help trying to conjure the image of Charles Darwin walking along here back in 1836. I wondered what he had thought about this beautiful area.
I had recently read first the first two books in the Australian History series (Girt and True Girt) by David Hunt which had talked about Charles Darwin hating Australia. "Farewell Australia, I leave … without sorrow or regret." He wrote in his diary.
But as I walked this lush walk, named for the famous naturalist, I thought that surely, he must have enjoyed his stroll along this very area.
Then again, I thought, who's to know what this site looked like 188 years ago. It could have simply been overgrown and look nothing like the lush walk was now, with it's wide-open trails.
While I walked along, I couldn't help trying to conjure the image of Charles Darwin walking along here back in 1836. I wondered what he had thought about this beautiful area.
I had recently read first the first two books in the Australian History series (Girt and True Girt) by David Hunt which had talked about Charles Darwin hating Australia. "Farewell Australia, I leave … without sorrow or regret." He wrote in his diary.
But as I walked this lush walk, named for the famous naturalist, I thought that surely, he must have enjoyed his stroll along this very area.
Then again, I thought, who's to know what this site looked like 188 years ago. It could have simply been overgrown and look nothing like the lush walk was now, with it's wide-open trails.
Walking along the pristine area, although lacking the adventure or difficulty of the other walks I had done, I was still in awe of the beauty and aware of the history of the walk, and of Darwin himself.
I started narrating the walk in my head (like a pseudo-draft of this blogpost, but better because I was there and, in the moment, and didn't have to try and recall things with my memory that has been poor ever since my chemo).
'Charles Darwin (the Atheist's Jesus), who walked the creek corridor in 1836. He was also famous for impregnating his own cousin. But that's ok because "that's just how things were back then".' I narrated in my head, smiling vainly at my own humour.
I started narrating the walk in my head (like a pseudo-draft of this blogpost, but better because I was there and, in the moment, and didn't have to try and recall things with my memory that has been poor ever since my chemo).
'Charles Darwin (the Atheist's Jesus), who walked the creek corridor in 1836. He was also famous for impregnating his own cousin. But that's ok because "that's just how things were back then".' I narrated in my head, smiling vainly at my own humour.
I thought about the history of evolution, and my complete lack of comprehension in how people in our day and age still disputed it. As a 'Dinosaur Kid', I had grown up obsessed, always learning about the ancient history of our world and the evolution of species. It always made sense to me, it was science, it was truth, it could be witnessed in the real world and was in abundance around us in the diversity of species.
I thought back on when I was a young kid, and I wandered into the kitchen to ask my Mum if she believed in evolution. (This was after being in scripture in school and as a young child finding fundamental flaws in what I was being told about the origins of the world).
"I don't know." She responded. I walked away flabbergasted, confused why my own adult Mother didn't respond with 'Yes of course I believe in evolution, it's a fact.'
(I'll have to ask her that question again and see if I get a different response which I will post at the end).
I thought back on when I was a young kid, and I wandered into the kitchen to ask my Mum if she believed in evolution. (This was after being in scripture in school and as a young child finding fundamental flaws in what I was being told about the origins of the world).
"I don't know." She responded. I walked away flabbergasted, confused why my own adult Mother didn't respond with 'Yes of course I believe in evolution, it's a fact.'
(I'll have to ask her that question again and see if I get a different response which I will post at the end).
I noticed a large steel pipe, like an aqueduct, built up over the creek, breaking my train of thought.
As I approached there was another post, saying if I crossed the bridge here it would lead to Falls Road via Armstrong Street, while pointing left to Dalrymple Avenue (South). I continued on straight where there was yet another post only a few metres ahead. This time, right towards Falls Road via Wilson Street, but I continued straight on, still towards Wentworth Falls Picnic Area.
Once more after walking in quiet contemplation, I came upon a left turn to Falls Road via Parke Street, continuing straight for the umpteenth time toward the Picnic Area.
'Surely I'm going to reach this picnic area soon.' I thought, worrying that I was taking far too many photos of the area. But for such a simply light walk, the beauty of it is better seen than described. (That's also better for me; someone shit at using descriptive language).
'Surely I'm going to reach this picnic area soon.' I thought, worrying that I was taking far too many photos of the area. But for such a simply light walk, the beauty of it is better seen than described. (That's also better for me; someone shit at using descriptive language).
I began clicking my tongue as I had developed a weird taste in my mouth. I swirled my saliva, wondering what the hell it was. It kind of tasted like what household gas smells like (gas in naturally odourless so tert-Butylthiol (t-butyl mercaptan) is added so it can be detected).
As I swirled my tongue around in my mouth a noticed a piece of something, it felt like a small seed, what the hell had I eaten?
Then it dawned on me. I had snacked on the butter popcorn flavoured crackers. I pulled them out of my bag to taste the flavour. It was weirdly nutty but also buttery. I actually thought that it really wasn't a pleasant flavour at all. I still proceeded to finish the packet, as I had nothing else to eat, and beggars can't be choosers (however the aftertaste continued to remind me of gas).
Then it dawned on me. I had snacked on the butter popcorn flavoured crackers. I pulled them out of my bag to taste the flavour. It was weirdly nutty but also buttery. I actually thought that it really wasn't a pleasant flavour at all. I still proceeded to finish the packet, as I had nothing else to eat, and beggars can't be choosers (however the aftertaste continued to remind me of gas).
With such lush greenery, and damp atmosphere the feel of the area was more reminiscent of England than Australia, but I wondered if it was like this all the time, trying to imagine the area in scotching hot dry weather, and then wondered if this area would even receive weather like that.
'If there was someone else with me, I could play Poohsticks off that bridge.' I thought.
'If there was someone else with me, I could play Poohsticks off that bridge.' I thought.
After rounding a bend on the creek, the way through to the picnic area was closed off with a fence with signs saying, 'Danger Construction Zone' and the arrow that would have been pointing forward had another arrow tapped over it now pointing right towards the picnic area, as well as to Falls Road via Fletcher Street.
This led up a bunch of stairs, that a father and his young daughter where walking down. I moved to the side for them, while Kookaburra's nearby began laughing. As I made it to the top of the stairs there was a detour sign (that I took a photo of without looking at, or reading the map, similar to my error from Walls Cave).
I exited onto residential streets and turned right heading back the direction I had come, expecting at one point a walk to lead through and back onto Darwins Walk as I had passed so many turn off along the way to various streets. I headed down Jamison Street, which looked like it would lead to one of these sections at the end of the street, however instead there was simply a little grassy area above the creek with no access through and a little bench to sit at.
Past here looked like a dead end, and I thought I was going to have to turn around, until I noticed a small track up a hill between the properties which I followed.
This led me up through some longish grass that brushed against the bottom of my legs, drenching them in water, until I exited onto another street, on the corner of Backhouse and Jamison (again but disconnected). I followed Jamison down, but it only led to a dead end, and so I looped back and headed up Backhouse Street until I turned right onto Falls Road, passing by 'Central Park' a nice parkland area.
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| Just looking up a street trees |
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| Just a Cockatoo looking for street food |
The walk took me past two churches, a public school, a rural fire brigade, and a tennis club until I reached Wilson Park, where the first thing I noticed was a public toilet that I headed towards.
While visiting this I decided to post on a Facebook group called 'Best Pies NSW & ACT' asking about where to get some good chilli pies from, as the lack of any in the Blue Mountains had made me sad.
As I exited the loo and looked up, I noticed a sign pointing towards Darwins Walk that I had walked right by on my way towards the toilet which I might well have missed.
While visiting this I decided to post on a Facebook group called 'Best Pies NSW & ACT' asking about where to get some good chilli pies from, as the lack of any in the Blue Mountains had made me sad.
As I exited the loo and looked up, I noticed a sign pointing towards Darwins Walk that I had walked right by on my way towards the toilet which I might well have missed.
'Grand Cliff Walk' I thought. Thinking about the plaque from the episode of Great Australian walks. I thought that it was probably near the start of this walk, just down from here. Although I wondered to myself where the cliffs were, as I thought I could remember the plaque placed on an overhanging boulder.
There was a large board of information on walks, which I popped over to take a photo of (but not read until now), as there was a group of women waiting there out of the rain (I overheard that they were waiting for a friend to arrive).
"Darwins Walk
This walk follows the length of Jamison Creek, flowing over Wentworth Falls into the Jamison Valley, and eventually making its way to Lake Burragorang - Sydney's drinking water supply.
This historic walk is named after famous naturalist Charles Darwin, who walked the creek corridor n 1836. The valley above the waterfall was known as Jamison Valley until about 1834. It was named by Governor Macquarie in May 1815 after Sir John Jamison, who was a friend of Macquarie and a pioneering pastoralist."
"Darwins Walk
This walk follows the length of Jamison Creek, flowing over Wentworth Falls into the Jamison Valley, and eventually making its way to Lake Burragorang - Sydney's drinking water supply.
This historic walk is named after famous naturalist Charles Darwin, who walked the creek corridor n 1836. The valley above the waterfall was known as Jamison Valley until about 1834. It was named by Governor Macquarie in May 1815 after Sir John Jamison, who was a friend of Macquarie and a pioneering pastoralist."
I headed off just as the friend of the ladies was arriving as I didn't want to awkwardly be stuck walking alongside them.
It was an incredibly short walk, and I was soon back at the base of the stairs that I had walked down to begin the walk.
I was very confused about why it was called the Grand Cliff Top Walk with no cliff, and where this Charles Darwin plaque was that I had seen in the show. Nothing was making sense to me (probably because I didn't read or look at anything like an idiot).
I reached my car, unsatisfied with my walks (the length and time, they were both beautiful). I still had more of the day left and so had time to do more. I had seen a sign on my way driving to Darwins Walks, pointing towards Wentworth Falls Lake, so thought about going there for an explore. When I loaded up Google Maps on my phone however I noticed the nearby 'Wentworth Falls', the namesake of the town.
I was very confused about why it was called the Grand Cliff Top Walk with no cliff, and where this Charles Darwin plaque was that I had seen in the show. Nothing was making sense to me (probably because I didn't read or look at anything like an idiot).
I reached my car, unsatisfied with my walks (the length and time, they were both beautiful). I still had more of the day left and so had time to do more. I had seen a sign on my way driving to Darwins Walks, pointing towards Wentworth Falls Lake, so thought about going there for an explore. When I loaded up Google Maps on my phone however I noticed the nearby 'Wentworth Falls', the namesake of the town.
As I began the drive there, I soon found myself driving down Falls Road, past all the things I had just walked past. As I continued up further, I began seeing all the Darwin Walk detour signs pointing towards the Falls.
I pulled in at a carpark along the side of the road, I jumped out, eager to start this walk. 'The plaque must be along here!' I thought, it was beginning to remind me of my mission to find the book to sign your name after hiking up 'The Castle'.
The picnic area was up the road 150m away, but instead I headed left along a dirt slope heading downhill that was 100m until I reached Wentworth Falls lookout.
As I reached the lookout to the falls, which was surprisingly busy given that from the lookout you couldn't see a single thing. Just grey mist. I walked over to a large information sign to read about all the various walks you could do from here. I decided to head down the walk on my left as I saw it say, 'Grand Cliff Top Walk' and thought I might see this Darwin walking plaque (I don't even know why it mattered; I think it was because I expected to see it).
I couldn't wait to begin the walk, as there were some very loud and very chavvy English women at the lookout, and their strong Essex accents were going to give me an aneurism.
I followed the trail down, eager to get away from the sound (sorry people of Essex). After following the trail down, the path divided, right towards the falls (with Fletchers Lookout 5 minutes away) and also towards 'National Pass', left led to the village and train station via the Charles Darwin Walk (which I knew was closed), and Weeping Rock Circuit. I decided to head right towards Fletchers lookout.
"Plant Life on the Edge
The incredible Blue Mountains escarpments provide habitat to threatened plant species which have adapted to these distinct environments.
Four plant species found along these cliffs have not been recorded anywhere else in the world!
Smooth Bush-pea
This very rare plant grows at mid to high altitudes of the Blue Mountains. It makes its home in swampy areas on sandstone soils.
In one of nature's great contradictions adult bush-peas are killed by fire yet the species requires a fire event for seeds to break their dormancy and grow.
Euphrasia bowdeniae and Xanthosia scopulicola
Two very small plants, with very big names, are only found in the high-altitude areas of the Blue Mountains.
Euphrasia bowdeniae is a semi-parasitic perennial herb. Xanthosia scopulicola is a small hardy shrub with a wooly appearance.
They cling to life in the cracks and crevices in the sandstone cliff faces and grow to a height of about 20cm.
Dward Mountain Pine
An ancient conifer, found only in the Upper Blue Mountains, this hardy cliff dweller hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs. It loves being close to water growing in damp, shaded spray zones, drip lines and seepage areas of a handful of waterfalls.
Dward mountain pines are listed as endangered in Australia and as critically endangered internationally as only 750 survive in the wild.
Like the Wollemi pine, it has been on our planet since dinosaurs roamed the earth over 200 million years ago."
The incredible Blue Mountains escarpments provide habitat to threatened plant species which have adapted to these distinct environments.
Four plant species found along these cliffs have not been recorded anywhere else in the world!
Smooth Bush-pea
This very rare plant grows at mid to high altitudes of the Blue Mountains. It makes its home in swampy areas on sandstone soils.
In one of nature's great contradictions adult bush-peas are killed by fire yet the species requires a fire event for seeds to break their dormancy and grow.
Euphrasia bowdeniae and Xanthosia scopulicola
Two very small plants, with very big names, are only found in the high-altitude areas of the Blue Mountains.
Euphrasia bowdeniae is a semi-parasitic perennial herb. Xanthosia scopulicola is a small hardy shrub with a wooly appearance.
They cling to life in the cracks and crevices in the sandstone cliff faces and grow to a height of about 20cm.
Dward Mountain Pine
An ancient conifer, found only in the Upper Blue Mountains, this hardy cliff dweller hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs. It loves being close to water growing in damp, shaded spray zones, drip lines and seepage areas of a handful of waterfalls.
Dward mountain pines are listed as endangered in Australia and as critically endangered internationally as only 750 survive in the wild.
Like the Wollemi pine, it has been on our planet since dinosaurs roamed the earth over 200 million years ago."
As I reached Fletchers Lookout, the track split, to head right towards 'Undercliff Track', and left, the Wentworth Falls Track, with the falls in 100m, and also to National Pass.
I headed to Fletchers Lookout for a view and was able to see the falls in front of me through all the mist.
I headed to Fletchers Lookout for a view and was able to see the falls in front of me through all the mist.
"Fletchers Lookout
From Wentworth Falls Lookout walk down the Wentworth Falls track to this cliff-edge lookout for great views of the top of the falls. You can return the same way or return back past Weeping Rock or Princes Rock for a long walk."
I continued on, down the track to the falls, hoping for a better view below the mist.
"To the base of Wentworth Falls
From Fletchers Lookout, walk a few minutes more to cross Jamison Cree at the very top of Wentworth Falls. Following this route you will cross the top of the falls on steppingstones before meeting the historic Grand Stairway built into the side of the cliff more than 100 years ago. The steep stairway leads you down to the forest below where you find yourself gazing back up at falls."
As I approached, I read a danger sign, also showing an image or where you were in relation to the entire waterfall.
I was lucky enough that just as I arrived at the falls the area was empty, so I was able to appreciate the serenity for a while before I heard the voices of a group now making their way to the falls. I crossed the steppingstones to the other side.
On the other side there were two separate trails with a bunch of walks extending on from them. The first:
Heading straight along the track continued to National Pass, Wentworth Pass and to the Conservation Hut Cafe.
However, there was another trail, that seemed to be a loop trail, in a little nook between the National Pass trail and Wentworth Falls.
However, there was another trail, that seemed to be a loop trail, in a little nook between the National Pass trail and Wentworth Falls.
I decided to head up this trail, in the direction leading right up some stairs along a cliff edge towards Rocket Point and Lincoln Rock. I reached the top, heading under a large hollow between rocks to the opposite side.
The trail continued both directions after I passed through. I headed left first, to Rocket Point Lookout which was a mere 20m away. However, like most the lookouts I had experienced on the day, I was unable to see anything, so I headed back to follow the Rocket Point loop trail along towards Lincoln Rock, which was 1.4km away, but stopping not even a few steps after beginning down that trail to try and photograph a unique bird I noticed in the trees above me.
It was a peaceful walk, with no other people choosing to continue on past the waterfall. I came to a split in the trail after continuing on for a while, I headed up the stairs that turned off left for a little as it took me up higher to look over the cliff which might have been a spectacular view if not for all the fog.
I headed back down to continue along the trail that continued straight alongside the cliff (I should clarify that there were trees between the trail and the cliff edge).
Once more I reached a fork, but this one was at least signposted, letting me know I could turn left and return to the top of Wentworth Falls which was 200m away, it informed me that Rocket Point was 100m back the direction I'd come from, and on forwards, it was 1.5km to Lincoln Rock, 1.3km to Horden Road, and 1.2km to Chester Road.
I continued my course towards Lincoln Rock, enjoying the clifftop scrub and wildflowers.
I continued my course towards Lincoln Rock, enjoying the clifftop scrub and wildflowers.
I eventually reached an open clearing dominated by large stone slabs that would have offered a perfect picnic area overlooking that valley. Unfortunately, due to the mist, nothing was visible to me, and exiting onto this area left me exposed to the rain which had so far been mostly blocked by all the trees around me.
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| My views |
Proceeding on, I could see the top of a cliff edge in the distance, jutting out over the valley, and I had a feeling that this was going to be 'Lincoln Rock'.
Along the way a section of the track was being repaired, though there was no one there at the time, as I made my way around to yet another open section of stone.
I stood silently, overlooking the grey abyss before me. Light flecks of rain blowing onto my face, carried by a gentle breeze.
The rain began to increase in speed and weight, and so I pressed on until I entered out onto a dirt road. There was a road gate in front of me informing me I was on the 'Little Switzerland Trail'.
Black Cockatoos flew low over my head every now and again landing far off in the scrub off the side of the trail. I watched two of them eating something in the trees while wondering what black cockatoo they were.
At first, I thought they could be a Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, as I noticed the yellow around their neck. But then I noticed the red on their tail and thought they could be a Red-tailed Black Cockatoo. But that didn't make sense with the yellow neck, so my best guess was a Glossy Black Cockatoo (if you know leave a comment).
At first, I thought they could be a Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, as I noticed the yellow around their neck. But then I noticed the red on their tail and thought they could be a Red-tailed Black Cockatoo. But that didn't make sense with the yellow neck, so my best guess was a Glossy Black Cockatoo (if you know leave a comment).
The road opened up into a large open area, filled with large bags that I assume where full of supplies for NSW National Parks to use.
Just after this section I could follow the road to my right, which a little signpost told me would lead to Chester Road in 800m, I instead continued straight, which was now a trail back into the bush, with 500m to Rocket Point or 600m to the Top of Wentworth Falls.
Soon after setting down this trail, a trail branched off on my left (with another yellow warning sign) which I assumed connected back with the fork in the trail I hadn't taken as I continued on towards Lincoln Rock (which I was never sure I arrived at, as there was nothing to say so, so I assumed it was one of the rocky outcrops I visited).
I continued straight eventually coming out from the loop trail from up high, looking down over the start of the walk heading the other direction and the trail leading to Wentworth Falls.
I made my way down, crossing the steppingstones past Wentworth Falls once more, stopping to enjoy the view again as once more I was alone with them. I headed back up the trail until I was next to a section atop the falls, where I headed down to the flowing stream to gaze up at the flowing water.
I made my way down, crossing the steppingstones past Wentworth Falls once more, stopping to enjoy the view again as once more I was alone with them. I headed back up the trail until I was next to a section atop the falls, where I headed down to the flowing stream to gaze up at the flowing water.
I took an alternate route back, instead of heading back up towards Fletchers Lookout I took the Weeping Rock Walking Track alongside Jamison Creek, which I knew would connect on to the closed Charles Darwin Walk.
I headed up the 'Weeping Rocks' with the water cascading here overflowing and draining down the stairs on the side. I stood on my tip toes as I walked up trying to avoid an afternoon of walking with wet socks.
At the top of the falls the trail diverged, with the section towards the Charles Darwin Walk fenced off. I headed left, continuing along the Weeping Rock track until it linked back into the Wentworth Falls track. I made my way back up to the Wentworth Falls Lookout, where still the view of the falls was not visible through all the mist, still eager for more walks, I headed down the trail on the opposite side of the lookout which led towards Princes Rock Lookout which was apparently 20mins return.
"Princes Rock Lookout
This walk follows one of the earliest constructed walking tracks (late 1890s_ to access views of the falls. From the roadside path, or from Wentworth Falls Lokout, descend the steps to a historic lookout on a rocky outcrop."
This walk follows one of the earliest constructed walking tracks (late 1890s_ to access views of the falls. From the roadside path, or from Wentworth Falls Lokout, descend the steps to a historic lookout on a rocky outcrop."
Following this along a short while it opened onto another trail, but heading right uphill just led you a carpark, so I turned right, heading down towards Princes Rock Lookout.
As I followed it down, I noticed what looked like old stone ovens built along the side.
The stairs were actually pretty steep, and after three days of non-stop walking I was dreading having to walk back up them.
I reached the lookout, and whilst I was unable to see the falls from here, I had some gaps in the mist and was able to see cliff faces on the opposite side to me.
The trail continued down past Princes Rock Lookout, leading to the 'Under Cliff Track'. Under Cliff brought back images of the Darwin plaque I had seen in the 'Great Australian Walk' show, so I thought I may find if I were to continue down this way, so that's what I did. Once I reached the bottom the track headed along the cliff in two directions. Heading right led towards the Conservation Hut Cafe and 'Valley of the Waters' which said 'car park' in small letter underneath. Left apparently led back to Wentworth Falls (a 15-minute walk). I decided to explore a little on the trail to the right in the hopes of finding this random and irrelevant plaque that held no historical or cultural value, but because I expected to see it, and didn't, I felt some sort of desperate desire to locate it.
I was flying along here at a very quick pace, to see if I would stumble upon my 'White Whale', which was now this frivolous plaque. I was now late in the afternoon, and I was well aware I still had a long drive home from the Blue Mountains to Wollongong.
Every corner I turned around I told myself would be my last, but every time I turned around another I thought 'maybe it will be around the next one', and continued on further.
Eventually I decided it was time for me to turn around, thinking about the series of stairs that I would have to walk back up. I made my way back to the bottom of Princes Rock Lookout, looking once more at the sign here that was telling me that the trail left was to Wentworth Falls. Although I had already seen the falls, I didn't remember another track leading away from them to reach this point (there was I was just doing so many and so much and not paying enough attention).
While I was deliberating whether or not to walk back up the stairs, a young couple came from the direction of the falls and I asked them if that trail just led to the falls.
They told me that it led to the base of the falls, and told me it was 'well worth seeing'. I then wasn't sure if the section of the waterfall was the base, as I thought I had read something earlier about reaching the base (I had), but then thought that the section I had reached was the base even though it continued to flow down.
They insisted it was well worth seeing as they could see I was debating whether or not to just head back while I looked at the time.
"What the hell, I'm only here once." I said, thanking them and setting off down along the Grand Cliff Top Track back towards Wentworth Falls.
I passed another oven looking thing in the cliff side, before soon reaching a turn off on my right towards 'Eagles Nest Lookout'.
While I was deliberating whether or not to walk back up the stairs, a young couple came from the direction of the falls and I asked them if that trail just led to the falls.
They told me that it led to the base of the falls, and told me it was 'well worth seeing'. I then wasn't sure if the section of the waterfall was the base, as I thought I had read something earlier about reaching the base (I had), but then thought that the section I had reached was the base even though it continued to flow down.
They insisted it was well worth seeing as they could see I was debating whether or not to just head back while I looked at the time.
"What the hell, I'm only here once." I said, thanking them and setting off down along the Grand Cliff Top Track back towards Wentworth Falls.
I passed another oven looking thing in the cliff side, before soon reaching a turn off on my right towards 'Eagles Nest Lookout'.
The sign at the top of the way to Eagles Nest Lookout told me it was only in 50m, but I didn't need to waste my time walking down as a bright orange plastic fence had been erected over the trail with a danger sign warning that the trail was temporarily closed due to 'conditions or works'. So I continued along, excited at the prospect of reaching the bottom of the falls even though I was tired, sweaty stinky, and very hungry and knew I had a long drive ahead.
Soon the trail led me through to the same section of Wentworth Falls I had already visited. 'Ah to this was just the base of the falls.' I erroneously thought to myself, only finding out while writing up this blog that the information board at the start had said you could reach the bottom, which I believe would follow along from the crossing towards National Pass, where you would reach the 'Giant Stairway' which I believe would lead you down to the base of Wentworth Falls, I'm also sure that if I had followed that trail along I might have encountered the infamous plaque, instead however, I resumed the walk up from the falls I had already visited, past Fletchers Lookout, and began heading back up the Wentworth Falls Lookout track where I encounter my first leech over three days on the muddy stairs.
I continued uphill, tired and exhausted, but hungry from not having any proper food since breakfast, and looking on my GPS for a place to stop in and get not only a coffee for the drive home, but some food too.
The only place I could find that seemed to be selling coffee this late was a place called the 'Cheesesteak Factory', in Lawson, which tired and exhausted I misread as the 'Cheesecake Factory'.
Upon reaching my car, the rain began heavily once more as I set off, stinky and sweaty towards Lawson, where I pulled in on Staples Crescent, walking up to the Cheesesteak Factory, which was NOT the Cheesecake Factory, and ordering myself a latte and a large juicy burger.
The burger was huge, and super gluttonous, which layers of melted American cheese and thick patty's, and while I ate it in the drivers seat of my car I realised that for three nights all I had eaten were burgers. I finished it quick, feeling bloated and heavy and began the long drive home, sipping at my coffee, and sad my adventures were over, but I was already planning a return.
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Thanks for reading! - Steven
Extra tidbits! - After my return from the Blue Mountains, I had my birthday, turning the ripe old age of 33. It was a pretty subdued day, just going to work and then out for some pub trivia that night.
However, on the 27th of November we drove out to Canberra to Parliament House to partake in the Rising Tide protest against the government opening up new coal and gas mines.
After this Christmas and New Year came and went while I worked writing down my three days' worth of adventures (when I had time to do so which is why it took me so long).
However, on the 27th of November we drove out to Canberra to Parliament House to partake in the Rising Tide protest against the government opening up new coal and gas mines.
After this Christmas and New Year came and went while I worked writing down my three days' worth of adventures (when I had time to do so which is why it took me so long).
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| Orla opening her Christmas presents |
By the time I share this post it is now 2025. A brand-new year, and all the time in between has both seemingly flown by and yet went tediously slow. My time at the Blue Mountains, with each day jam packed full of new sights and sounds, constantly on the go, felt longer and more fulfilling than all the time since. Yet, while it also when fast, it also felt slower, with more occurring, feeling like life was somehow longer and more grand. It fuelled a bit of depression and sense of underwhelming with my everyday life. Though I say every year that I want to try and do more and more, the fact is I will probably do less in 2025 while I knuckle down on completing my Certificate III in Horticulture. I will still get out, and write, and we shall see what the new year brings.
